As you have read, I've tried soldering, admitting not using "Tix", without suc6. The Loctite 648 has been ordered. In order to increase the contact surface area, I may have to reconsider to take the bushing out, apply the Loctite and insert the bushing again. It all depends how time/setting-time & fianl strength test-trials with the Loctite will perform.
I'll de-grease the joint first with brake-cleaner; thanks ;-)
Loctite 648 is very good, and will indeed hold a gear on an arbor. But it needs a certain amount of surface area. I can pretty much assure it won't hold a sweep seconds hand on a pipe. Honestly aside from making a new pipe, solder is the best route. You'll want a good flux, it will get it to flow and hold to the steel hand. Tix is a brand of soft solder and flux that will 100% sure work with steel and brass alloys. I have good luck with regular electrical solder and flux too. I heat the assembled hand and tube on a little brass plate over an alcohol lamp. Put flux and a tiny piece of solder at the joint. Since you're already repainting the heat is a non issue.