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    • These are the antiques. Top left is my 1883 Elgin model #1 in its Keystone case. Top right is my little 1897 Waltham model #1891 "Seaside", also in a Keystone case. Center is the (circa 1942) Public Watch Co. "Louis XIV" alarm pocket watch. Lower left is my 1888 Hampden in its Dueber case. And lower right is my 1919 Longines 18.50 calibre. The picture don't show as well as I'd like, but I'm checking them with my phone, so that may be part of it. All run, and I wear each one off and on.
    • I usually place the balance on a staking block and adjust with an oiler if I don't have a purpose made tool which fits. I like to find the place the stud should be by bringing the balance wheel to the correct position when fitted and with the help of a microscope graticule, move the microscope to look down on the balance vertically, rotate the graticule to an angle to match the stud and pivot - so I can easily see where the line of the graticule sits on the balance rim. I can then use a screw or marker pen mark (sometimes there's already a scratch), then use it to help get the stud on that same line of the graticule, between the balance pivot and a pre-determined screw or mark on the balance rim. The microscope isn't necessary but makes it easier to be precise.. I used to do the same but with a screwdriver instead of the graticule/ microscope.
    • Thank you. It was challenging and intimidating at first, but thankfully it all came together.
    • Most of the dial decal process descriptions I've read have used plain water as an aide to positioning the dial. Has anyone experimented with Microsol and Microset to see if there's any advantage as opposed to using just water? I did note that @manodeoro mentioned using Microset in places on his illustrated tutorial. \\\ On another note, I'm corresponding with someone on Reddit who is experimenting with direct laser toner transfer for creating custom dials. That method has some advantages in that there's no clear film to worry about, but I suspect that it's a lot more difficult to get quality results. I've used xylene to transfer color laser toner from plain printer paper to different media to some success, and the principle is the same for a custom watch dial.
    • An update on the OWA issue: I ordered a new replacement part for the watch and it arrived a few days ago. Thanks to Watchweasol's tech sheet, the installation and lubrication went very smoothly. Had I the attention span of a grapefruit, I would have noted in Watchweasol's tech sheet the sole, but crucial difference between the AS1361 and the AS1361N: the diameter of the oscillating weight axle has been increased on the New version of this movement. Of course, I didn't notice and I ordered a part for the old version. Now I have an attached, albeit very wobbly rotor and it's all going back into the To Do drawer until an inexpensive parts movement turns up.  Thank you, Watchweasol for the tech sheet, and thank you MaverickWaz for the advice on using my staking set to remove the old axle, it worked a charm. 
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