Jump to content

8 day wall clock


Mattaphysics

Recommended Posts

 

So I recently got this wall clock for next to nothing... Of course there's a reason. It's all sorts of gunked up but it's also missing the minutes hand. I'm planning on getting a new set to my liking but i cannot tell how the minute hand is supposed to stay on. Out doesn't look like a nut screws on the end and i don't see a hole for a taper pin. Is it possible it's that gunked up that the hole is covered by dirt? Not sure if the pictures clear anything up. I don't believe it's missing any pieces to my knowledge. Just an American movement that doesn't have a strike train. And a thought just occurred... Is it possible for me to add a strike train if I wish later?

 

Sent from my LM-X210CM using Tapatalk

 

 

 

be068e72bc47b88454e309bbecc90960.jpg9402778aa31d45de99ecb6efca5f3565.jpg4db54efa7a0995483466fcee642044ed.jpg48037459f23b942095ce4152864faa57.jpg35d31c7bf5a8008e2d89ea93059b62fd.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It’s a HAC movement Hamburg American Clock co and very popular in the collectors market. If it doesn’t have a strike or chime train then bestto leave it as is you can buy either for less than a conversion even if it was possible. Give it a good clean following a dismantle (loads on here about the procedure) Take lots of piccies, decide if it needs any rebushing and rebuild. A good starter movement.

spares should be readily available. 

Good luck on the cleaning and servicing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 As Squiffy says mind the spring, wind the spring up tight and fit a clamp if no clamp fit a strong wire around the spring and twist to secure before loosening the plates.  The Min hand looks like a push/friction fit Check  all the pivots and bearings, by the look of it one or two may need bushing. all the best

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The minute hand should be pinned on. Have a good look at that square to see if the pin has broken off and is still in the hole. You will also need a hand collet to go over the minute hand and then the tow are held in place with a pin, use a steel pin not brass.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A close up of the hands arbour would help, I am not sure it has a pin because I can see no collar on the minute shaft, therefore it would rub on the hour shaft. That said it seems a large hand to be a pressure fit, a close up should help work it out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First off thank you all for the quick responses and feedback. So looking at the minute pinion it doesn't look like you can tell at the end. It doesn't look like it takes a nut but i also can't see a clear sign at all. Here's dive pictures see if you can make heads or tails of it. Waiting for more cleaning fluid and alcohol for rinsing in the mean time. Is there a certain set of hands i need to get or just any for 5" dial will do?47516d93dc859f63069a9ce10ca1b248.jpg410c8a87460759e62c03f7e4c8374175.jpga661c4ca53833ff3fb49b4a556ffa55f.jpg

Sent from my LM-X210CM using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You need to see what clearance you have, this must include the dial the hands and if it has a bezel holding a glass.  I’m sure you know nothing must be touching each other. Would it be possible to shorten the hour pipe and have good clearance from the dial.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking at the clock dial it has no bezel therefore you can drill the end of the shaft and add a bit of steel. First file it to accomidate the minute hand and drill a hole for the taper pin, then solder it in place.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, good idea! I fit have those materials yet. I've never soldered before so perhaps i should practice on something else beforehand. I believe i could just cut some of the hour pipe off then drill a hole in the minute pinion?

Sent from my LM-X210CM using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
    • this is something I've never quite understood about the some of the Swiss companies. In 1957 Omega was using 9010 for the keyless parts with epilam. there's been a slow migration towards using heavier lubrication's but still typically oils and epilam to keep them in place. When it seems like 9504 works so much better.  
×
×
  • Create New...