Jump to content

Intro and Issue =D Chrono flyback sweeping second is FAST but watch is in time (both on Timeographer and in the world) Seiko 6139


Marucs

Recommended Posts

Hello all!!! I've enjoyed these posts for the past couple of years but have yet to join.  Wonderful informative information here.  Thank you!

I was wondering if anyone would have some insight on how to approach something.

I have an Issue with a Seiko 6139.  The Chrono flyback sweeping second is relatively fast but watch is in time (both on Timeographer and in the world).  Literally Fast relative to the rest of the watch...how can this be independent?

On the timeographer it is dead spot on with healthy amplitude but the fly back second hand when its engaged runs fast. Like a 1.5 seconds per minute fast.  I would think that this would affect its general time keeping but it doesn’t. The hour and minute hand of a 24 to 48 hour periods is accurate. But the second hand runs fast.  How could that be. Issue with vertical clutch or something. I'm not that familiar with Auto Chrono's.  How can the watch be keeping time on the graph and in real world with the second hand going so fast?
 
Any insight would be much appreciated.
 
Thanks

Marcus
 
oh, btw...I spelled my name wrong when signing up.  Hopefully I'll be able to revise that as well.

image1.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello!  Thank for the welcome and the response.  I actually didn't do anything but regulate the watch to less than .03 beat error and +/- 5 seconds a day.  It was running a strong 240-250 amplitude (for seiko). so I left it alone.  Like I said, I have not experience servicing a chrono.  Only direct second hands and sub second hands.  But my rudimentary knowledge leads me to  think that this second hand would also be in alignment with timing of  the rest of the movement and escapement. 

 

I will to demagnetize and get back to you.  Can I do that whole?  In case with balance spring present?

 

Thank you again for the generosity of your time.

~marcus

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes.  It is watch demagnetizer.  Watch runs great but the seconds are fast. A bit over a second a minute. I would think that would increase the rate of entire watch but the sweep second is gaining time independent of the rest of the watch it seems.  Watch hasn’t gained a minute in the last 48 hours.  

I demagnetized and problem still persist 

lift angle set at 54

Something with the vertical clutch?  

Still, I would think it would run in harmony with the rest of the power train and escapement   

 

I love learning about these things    I hope you guys don’t mind guiding me on this 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Sounds great! And yes, I would use grease for the keyless as well although treating the parts with epilame would make the grease less likely to spread in the long run. Not critical but won’t hurt. My current strategy is to epilame treat all parts getting in contact with oil or grease.
    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
    • I'm going to give this a try today/tomorrow on my UTC33/Seiko 66, thanks!
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • Don't forget Mark is a hard working watch maker so he is also tied up with work. I'm sure he is keeping his eye on this forum making sure it is running along nicely. 
×
×
  • Create New...