Jump to content

Hudson Dynamic jump hour


Recommended Posts

 

Got this on the way but as its ticking but not advancing the time, I want to see if i can get a parts movement for spares.

 

5f5fc3d1c4e7d08007c204300b2d005e.jpg

 

I know it's a crappy movement but I like the case & "dial"

 

Can anyone id the movement?

Its stamped Bader Ltd but Ranfft doesn't list it so I presume it's a rebranded movement.

 

fcfb297f40449ae6c12b4ba846775b41.jpg&key=029189c9da36bce6e95c51f6b986c153b4984c0f8f41ce66c0a5d72e0a284b28

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, ro63rto said:

 

Got this on the way but as its ticking but not advancing the time, I want to see if i can get a parts movement for spares.

 

5f5fc3d1c4e7d08007c204300b2d005e.jpg

 

I know it's a crappy movement but I like the case & "dial"

 

Can anyone id the movement?

Its stamped Bader Ltd but Ranfft doesn't list it so I presume it's a rebranded movement.

 

 

 

 

Its a Baumgartner 866. The reason it is not advancing is because of the drive gear is riveted onto the barrel of the mainspring, and it needs to be tightened in order to drive the hour and minute hands. This is a characteristic problem that is unique to this type of movement in that it does allow the seconds to continue ticking because that gear is directly driven. I'll follow up later with more info.

J

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its a Baumgartner 866. The reason it is not advancing is because of the drive gear is riveted onto the barrel of the mainspring, and it needs to be tightened in order to drive the hour and minute hands. This is a characteristic problem that is unique to this type of movement in that it does allow the seconds to continue ticking because that gear is directly driven. I'll follow up later with more info.
J
I'm ordering a new barrel lid from CousinsUK. That should solve the issue, right?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe same problem as i have with a BFG 866 digital . It the hour jumper that is broken. doesn't run either.  it's the part in the middle. Should be twice as long. It's sits inside the minute disc and flips the hour disc when it comes to 59 minutes. was thinking of making the part. But don't know how it should look. So i bought a donor movement. fingers crossed it's okay. Haven't seen any spare parts for the digital jump hour movement except the usual like balance and wheels. DSC00199.thumb.JPG.903b5cd9dfd2dfa6ee4257ad9c3d6f32.JPGDSC00198.thumb.JPG.8d7499537c330718f7a6a8b3fe23d12b.JPGDSC00197.thumb.JPG.59c543589b05fba1bc6a89652a64b6fe.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

48 minutes ago, ro63rto said:
4 hours ago, noirrac1j said:
Its a Baumgartner 866. The reason it is not advancing is because of the drive gear is riveted onto the barrel of the mainspring, and it needs to be tightened in order to drive the hour and minute hands. This is a characteristic problem that is unique to this type of movement in that it does allow the seconds to continue ticking because that gear is directly driven. I'll follow up later with more info.
J

I'm ordering a new barrel lid from CousinsUK. That should solve the issue, right?

The drive gear is riveted to the lid of the barrel, so yeah that should do it. You could also take a broach or a staking set placed within the gear opening and give it one tap. It usually tightens up enough to drive the hour/minute hand, but loose enough to allow setting the time.

J

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The drive gear is riveted to the lid of the barrel, so yeah that should do it. You could also take a broach or a staking set placed within the gear opening and give it one tap. It usually tightens up enough to drive the hour/minute hand, but loose enough to allow setting the time.
J
Thanks but I'm nowhere near handy enough to warrant splashing out on a staking set. The lid is only £6 so I'll just order that once the watch gets here and I've had a chance to take a close look.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quick question
Is it the lid I actually need or the barrel itself?
I want to add it to other bits I'm ordering to take advantage of the postage. If I get it wrong and have to reorder it will end up costing me loads more, comparatively.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/3/2019 at 10:56 PM, noirrac1j said:

The drive gear is riveted to the lid of the barrel, so yeah that should do it. You could also take a broach or a staking set placed within the gear opening and give it one tap. It usually tightens up enough to drive the hour/minute hand, but loose enough to allow setting the time.

J

Is it only the digital 866 that has this gear on the barrel or does all 866 have them? 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, rogart63 said:

Is it only the digital 866 that has this gear on the barrel or does all 866 have them? 

Mostly seen in jump hour, but I've seen this same barrel in at least one non-jump hour with BFG 866.

J

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 

 

 

Panic over, looks like I got it right  

29ee3cd4be7512e3dc9627fd42ec32c5.jpg&key=d5bad67e1a528d8320a432973114d2b6e12777aaf8a8aa821103fe0ba612820d

 

 

Hmm, my order from Cousins just got here and there's something not right, apart from it is part plastic.

The small cog looks to be a lot lower profile than the original brass version. You can barely see it in the photo. Hope it will work.

 

545506210_IMG_20190606_11262501.thumb.jpg.0a2747962d4cd43a149c4ee9201472d8.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, ro63rto said:

Balls!!
While attempting to remove the barrel lid, the mainspring shot out and smacked me on the visor emoji35.png

I give up with this. Gonna look for someone to rebuild it for me.

I ordered two  Cousins mainsprings for a Landeron and both broke after a few hours. When I tried getting a refund, they refused because the mainsprings were from  some other supplier and they could not return them....and so I would have to take the loss, not them. That was the last order I made to Cousins. 

Ok for next time, place  one side of a thin brass tweezers between the barrel edge and the lid to keep that spring down, then open it. I have more barrels and lids if you need one...and I might have springs too. Have to check.

J

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I ordered two  Cousins mainsprings for a Landeron and both broke after a few hours. When I tried getting a refund, they refused because the mainsprings were from  some other supplier and they could not return them....and so I would have to take the loss, not them. That was the last order I made to Cousins. 
Ok for next time, place  one side of a thin brass tweezers between the barrel edge and the lid to keep that spring down, then open it. I have more barrels and lids if you need one...and I might have springs too. Have to check.
J
Don't think the MS is damaged, just my visor [emoji4]
Don't think I lost anything. I'll try and find someone willing to work on a pin lever. Really want this on my wrist.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, ro63rto said:

Don't think the MS is damaged, just my visor emoji4.png
Don't think I lost anything. I'll try and find someone willing to work on a pin lever. Really want this on my wrist.

Most watchmakers will not work on a pin lever because although they are simple in construction, they can be challenging to assemble because of the inexpensive method of construction. Before I learned how to do complete overhauls myself, I asked (via email) a well known watchmaker on the east coast if he would overhaul my 17 jewel Sicura jump hour. "That's not the kind of watch I'd want to work on..." was the reply.

Watch-bias and snobbery can be pervasive in some circles.

J

Edited by noirrac1j
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Unfortunately I'm not that lucky. I started on the train side and after I noticed the binding I pulled everything out except the driving wheel to rule everything else out. It still binds. I'm going to double check that the pinion is fully seated on the staff first, then if no joy I'll push the bridge jewel up a fraction of a mm. Fingers crossed!
    • Happy to have helped, great way to start the day with a win! 🥳
    • Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor. 
    • I have that French tech sheet too, it is a little different than the English one (eg, it doesn't have the auto works diagram). BTW, it looks like you are looking up the case number in the 1979 ABC supplement. The 1974 ABC catalog does have the 3093 case. As you determined it takes the 1222-5 crystal.  When I serviced my President 'A' (which also takes that crystal), I was able to fit a 29.8 crystal from my DPA crystal assortment. Those are, in my opinion, a great deal. The assortment comes with 10 sizes each from 27.8mm to 32.4mm in 0.2 increments. I pretty much use them for any non-armored crystal that takes a high dome crystal. I think they no longer make them but Cousins has still has some in stock but when I bought them they were around $40 for the set and now they are around $100. Still, at 40 cents a crystal it's still a good deal. For the large driving wheel, I remember I once assembled the keyless/motion works first and when I placed the large driving wheel it was interfering with the setting wheel on the dial side as the teeth were not fully meshing and it wouldn't fully seat. If that isn't the issue I got nothing and am looking forward to see how you solve it 🙂
    • Not sure, but just looking at it, it seems like the screw on the right may be a fake? The one on the left may not be a screw in the regular sense at all, rather a 2 position device, I think you need to point the slot towards either of the 2 dots and one will secure and one will open. Like I said this is just my best guess looking at the pictures.
×
×
  • Create New...