Vostok 2409 Service Walkthrough Disassembly Pictures (Please sort by name in ascending order)
Vostok 2409 Service Walkthrough Assembly Pictures (Please sort by name in ascending order)
Being able to service the ETA calibre 2824-2 was a long-term goal and a dream when I started servicing and repairing watches some years ago. However, my first “calibre love” was the Vostok 2409; a reliable Soviet/Russian 17 jewels manual workhorse without any complications which has been around since 1970. It is still in production and found in Vostok’s Komandirskie series of watches, by some called the AK-47s of the watch world, together with its bigger brother the Vostok Amphibian dive watch.
Modern-day Vostok Amphibians use the automatic Vostok 2415 (w/o date complication) and 2416 (with date complication) calibres, but the Amphibian that I’m servicing in this walkthrough, an Albatross Radio Room, popular among collectors, is from the 1980s and in those days the manual 2409, as well as its predecessor 2209, was commonly used in the Amphibians as well as the Komandirskies.
While I was servicing this watch, I noticed that the crystal didn’t fit perfectly in the watch case. Being a serious dive watch originally designed for the Soviet navy this was, of course, unacceptable, so I replaced the crystal and video recorded the event in my “Bergeon No 5500 Crystal Press Review”.
For me, the 2409 was a great movement to get started with as it probably is the most affordable movement on the planet, and spare parts are readily available and cost next to nothing. A lost or damaged part never spells financial disaster. Also, eBay offers an abundance of used Vostok watches in decent condition housing this movement for as little as $20 and sometimes less. A brand new Vostok 2409 (www.meranom.com) can be had for as little as $27. Be aware that, almost without exception, the eBay listings always state that these Vostok watches have been serviced, but in my experience they never are. Well, maybe dipped in a can of naphtha, left to dry and then injected with a bit of oil here and there. I’ve seen horrible examples!
A somewhat tricky bit about the 2409 is to remove and replace the anti-shock springs. For this, I use a self-made tool made from peg wood. It’s shown in one of the assembly pictures together with a description of how I made it. A very similar tool is demonstrated in this video.
Later, as I was working myself through Mark Lovick’s watchrepairlessons.com courses, I trained with the Unitas 6498 pocket watch movement which is the selected movement for the courses. In all honesty, from a learning point, the Unitas 6498 would have been an easier movement to get started with (especially the anti-shock springs), but the tinkering with the Vostok 2409 was a low-cost and fun way to get started and made me better prepared for the courses which answered a bunch of questions and was amazingly instructive.
Eventually, I plan to publish a “Vostok 2414 Service Walkthrough”. The 2414 is identical to the 2409 but adds a very uncomplicated date complication.
So, if you want a whole lot of fun for next to nothing when it comes to money, there is no other movement I would recommend before the Vostok 24XX movements, and the 2409 is a great starting point if you have a desire to begin tinkering with watches. Be warned though; tinkering may take over a substantial chunk of your life!
Hello dear watchmakers!
I am now working on a SU movement, Slava 2427. It is a manual-wind movement with day-date complication
I am trying to assemble the watch back together after service but I am stuck on the day disc.
The day disc is fitted OK in my view, teeth underneath the disc interacts with the click and the disc advances naturally as other motion works move clockwise.
However, the problem is that the days written on the disc are not in the right position and do not fit inside the day window of the dial.
What could I have done wrong??
Good evening everyone. I am new to this forum and i can see we have some outstanding experts on the site.
brand new to watch repair and looking to get some advice. I purchased an Omega seamaster quarts 1342 watch (not currently working and not tested) as it was a bargain and understand that 329 is the equivalent of the original mercury battery used when the watch was manufactured?
I am hoping the battery change will mean it is functional but in the event it does not work, how easy/costly is it to repair. (I’ve heard parts can turn this bargain into a money pit)
would anyone in this community willing to have a go at fixing it after i try battery change?
paid service of course.
any help advice would be much appreciated
Hello.I have been working on a vintage movement. It is German movement, PUW 1561.
It is automatic and has date with quickset function by pulling and pushing back the crown.
Before I disassembled it, the quickset did not work instead the date changed as hands passed 00:00.
However, as I am trying to put the watch back, the date won't change either by quickset or just manually.
The date disk won't move no matter how long I move the hands. I think I have assembled the date function part wrong but I have no idea how the parts should fit it.
I read a post about servicing this same movement but it did not work for me. (http://watchguy.co.uk/service-arowe-puw-1561/)
Could anyone help me how to put the date parts back in?? I attached a photo of the movement I am working on.
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Hi well done jdm a very comprehensive walk through. Anone working on the same movement would do well to read this before starting. excellent. As regards the non cleaning of clean parts screws an plastic wheels I can see where you are coming from and respect that opinion, I also see Old Hippy's point of view, being trained old school and very correct its hard to change. But as you say it works for you with no problems so therefore you do it your way. I have done it both ways and had no problems with either. Thanks again for a good and instructive walk through.
I've used enamel paint (as you'd just get from a model shop) with good results. I suspect the lacquer you've found is the same thing ... but perhaps thinned to a consistency that makes it easier to apply. When painting you want to do it in one stroke; don't be tempted to go back and fiddle as you'll be less likely to get a smooth finish. One coat is usually fine but if you think you need a second wait until the first is fully dried first.
Its a early Landeron possibly a Calibre 13, only way to identify for sure would be a pic of the keyless works, Eberhard in my experience from a number of years ago are a very good company to deal with if you require parts they will supply if they have them in stock, they also seem to have good factory records so if you contact them with the serial number they may be able to help.