Jump to content

Lorus - what sort of plastic glue


Recommended Posts

Had the corner that holds the strap on my watch fall off.

Anyone know what sort of plastic that is and / or the best glue?

Even though still under warranty Lorus offered to fix it at a cost 

of more than it is worth - if they could find the part!

As that's my last seiko can you also recommend a watch that won't fall apart in under a year?

Seiko Watch.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ugh ....you  might try "super glue" if it works it would be the least obvious . Personally I wouldn't hold out hope of any lasting repair. As for what won't fall apart? a watch with a stainless steel case, Casio duro comes to mind for an everyday quartz beater.

Edited by yankeedog
content
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Chris  Any watch with a Plastic  case is a possible problem, firstly over time the plastic reacts with the sweat etc and turns brittle and once the straps and or case lugs break off it is almost impossible to fix. I have tried drilling and pinning with super glue but they eventually fall off again. Personally I dont wear them for that reason. You could fit the movement into another metal case. My daily beater is a lorus lumibrite with a rice grain bracelet, solid as a rock and when the bracelet gets dirty its taken off and put in the ultrasonic for a wash.  There are many good watches out there for daily use the choice is yours and yours alone.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I have a Solution - Clear nail polish

Find an inconspicuous spot then under magnification put a small drop on the tip of a pin and try to mix it into the plastic.

If it polish changes colour you have your glue if not, let it set to see how well it adheres anyway.

If above fails try another brand - nail polish is just a solution designed to dissolve shiny plastics an their additives.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The plastic could be anything from ABS through glass reinforced nylon, polycarbonate, PLA, polystyrene, epoxy.. you name it.. so figuring out the correct solvent is tricky. Nail polish *may* work, but equally it may not. Superglue may appear to work, but fail shortly after. You might also have luck with a mix of superglue and baking powder, which rapidly sets up hard as a rock. It dries as an off white to clear resin though, so you would need to paint it to hide the repair. Test it on some similar plastics first to get the hang of using it. Also be aware that some materials react in a very exothermic way with cynoacrylate (superglue). Cotton wool for example may actually catch fire. An interesting party trick, but not much fun when you spill it on your frayed jeans. 

You could try a repair with black epoxy resin, having keyed the surfaces with sandpaper first,  but in my experience it is very tricky to get a neat, but robust, lasting repair of small plastic items, since plastics are generally difficult to stick anything to reliably.

Edited by AndyHull
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I've successfully repaired similar breakages with superglue mixed with baking powder to build-up the area and then filed it to shape. Apply light layer of super-glue, sprinkle baking powder over it..repeat. Use a piece of pegwood where the springbar goes so that once the glue sets you can dig out the wood, easier than messing with drills. Also is the screw showing is only cosmetic? If yes then let it be in place when you apply the superglue/baking-powder.

Using super-clue with baking powder creates a hard structure, to make it stronger I suppose you could heat and embed some steel wire in the case a reinforcement.

Good luck

Anilv

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Chris, the answer to your problem is Casio MDV 106, it's cheap as chips, it's good looking, waterproof as a Rolex and more accurate as well. I am not really a quartz watch person but this watch for the money is superb.

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_20190422_083046.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • It might help us if we knew which watch like model number.
    • Hi, guys I have a bit of a predicament and hopefully, somebody can advise. I'm working on a Roamer MST 521 where the movement is extracted from the crystal side. I'm now at the final hurdle where I need to replace the movement back into its case but I'm not sure of the correct procedure. I still need to fit the hands but that's where the problem lies. If I insert the winding stem to test the hands for correct alignment I will need to turn the movement over to release the stem again it's the spring-loaded type and needs a small bit of force to push down but with the hands fitted, I don't think I can do this on a cushion without causing some damage to the hands and that's the last thing I want to do, this watch has already been a love-hate relationship and I'm so close to boxing this one off which I'm counting as my first major project.  The other option is to case the movement then fit the hands and hope everything is okay. I've already broken the original winding stem but managed to find a replacement, the last one in stock, so I'm a bit reluctant to keep removing it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. 
    • I would go for the dearer spring. You won't need to remove the spring from the carrier ring and then use a mainspring winder to get it into the barrel, for a start. Also that spring is closer to the needed dimensions, especially the length. The length plays a part in the mainsprings strength. If you double the length you will half the force (strength) of the spring and vice-versa. A spring with 20 mm less length would be about 7% shorter, so technically would be 7% more strength, but I find halving this number is closer to real-world findings, so the spring would be about 3 to 4% more strength/force. On a mainspring that ideally kicks out 300 degrees of amplitude, a 3% increase in amplitude would be 309 degrees. Increasing or decreasing the length of the mainspring will affect the power reserve to a greater or lesser degree. It depends how much shorter or longer it is.
    • I recently bought this but not on ebay. I figured if I want something Japanese I better check Japanese auction sites since these don't seem to pop up on ebay. I paid 83 € plus shipping & taxes. I think it was pretty reasonable for a complete set in good condition.
    • Did you take the friction pinion off the large driving wheel and grease it? Although, now that I think about it, that shouldn't have any effect on the free running of the train if the friction pinion isn't interacting withe minute wheel/setting wheel...
×
×
  • Create New...