Jump to content

i need your opinion, is this kif installed correctly?


Recommended Posts

The kif spring came out whilst removing the end stone. Wasn't too tricky to replace, which makes me think have i haven't put it back correctly...

i thought there was supposed to be a gap which it slides under, but it appears to just grip at the sides. 

Have i pushed it on far enough?

 

 

2016_0911_155734_001.JPG

2016_0911_155927_003.JPG

Edited by AP1875
Link to comment
Share on other sites

No, it is not right --almost but not there. It will probably disengage as soon as you wear the watch or flip the movement upside down. You need to make sure that when you install it that the rear prongs slide into the small grooves in the setting, and not just grip the sides. It should look like this:

1484447707_ScreenShot2019-05-30at1_13_17PM.png.2cf66dbd98f71187a0c7fba4bc551a6f.png

 

Here is a video that shows how to replace KIF.

Joe

Edited by noirrac1j
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've pushed it up further and now it looks the same as this (this is a picture before i removed it, i've taken a picture of it now but it didn't work, chinese microscope) . There doesn't seem to be a groove?

2016_0909_204850_001.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh boy.....well, check this area closely. Isn't there a small tab or shelf that the spring ends can slide under? If there isn't, I guess you'll have to make do with closing it the way you did. Be gentle because these will break easily, but if possible making sure it's as close  as it can get to the bottom of the setting plate. Hope it doesn't "ping" out when it's all put back together.

J

Slide1.jpg.2c021a6246d65bafdb041e048d4c6504.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well, i should've kept my mouth shut about it not being too difficult to install, i've taken it out again and it's not going back in. whilst it's out i'll have good look at the area you highlighted and see if there really is a gap or not. If you look at the picture above that was taken before i started playing, it looks like it's sitting much higher than the are with the arrows

 

on a side note so this doesn't feel like a life or death situation, do you know the type of kif spring? i will order some from cousins 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, AP1875 said:

here are some pictures with the jewel removed. What do you guys think?

 

 

2016_0911_182606_007.JPG

 

 

 

2016_0911_182315_001.JPG

The locking side for the KIF legs are as they should be, but the base side allows too much clearance to really secure the spring when opened. I guess it's best to simply replace the spring at the base (as best you can) and then lock it in place. You might want to take a break and go back to it later...believe me its very easy to get frustrated and break the darn thing. 

J

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, noirrac1j said:

The locking side for the KIF legs are as they should be, but the base side allows too much clearance to really secure the spring when opened. I guess it's best to simply replace the spring at the base (as best you can) and then lock it in place. You might want to take a break and go back to it later...believe me its very easy to get frustrated and break the darn thing. 

J

Thanks for the advice J. Looking back I can't believe how easily I installed it first time and then once I realised I hadn't pushed it in properly I just pushed it forward with my tweezers, no drama. Now after 90 minutes I've got to leave it until I can focus properly again. 

Do you know the size of the KIF? The inevitable will happen at some point... 

Edited by AP1875
Link to comment
Share on other sites

EAsy does it...the inevitable can be postponed indefinitely. I always stop and cover my work when I start to feel like it HAS TO BE DONE NOW!! That's a red flag for me....Regarding the KIF, take a look  this chart: 

99203190_ScreenShot2019-05-30at4_54_43PM.png.097cf20aac80a82976d418771364f3e2.png

It looks like KIF 3-2 or 3-3 elastor would work. Maybe someone else can provide more info on what exactly Rolex 4130 uses.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Be warned. I have been through similar situations like this with Chinese clones of ETA movements. They use their own poor material springs and do not follow authentic sizing.

 

Take your time and try to reinstall the spring that came out of it.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, jaycey said:

Be warned. I have been through similar situations like this with Chinese clones of ETA movements. They use their own poor material springs and do not follow authentic sizing.

 

Take your time and try to reinstall the spring that came out of it.

This one could be different as their objective was to create a movement as close to the original as possible. I will take my time. It would just be nice to have some spares if available 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good luck, their aim was the same with the ETA clones but they continue to use inferior material for screws and springs and this is a major downfall in their clones.

 

All the current Rolex clones are instantly recognisable as copies by their balance assemblies. Not even close...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, jaycey said:
10 minutes ago, jaycey said:

Good luck, their aim was the same with the ETA clones but they continue to use inferior material for screws and springs and this is a major downfall in their clones.

 

All the current Rolex clones are instantly recognisable as copies by their balance assemblies. Not even close...

 

I know I said that above. This is the only copy of of an In house chronograph movement where every part is interchangeable with genuine Rolex parts. Even the 7750 copy isn't completely interchangeable. Which leads me into thinking the kif springs could work

These are the only movements I can afford to work on, so have had to learn about them. Will try the springs mentioned and post here so can be referenced in the future

Edited by AP1875
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Keep us updated, I and presumably the rest of the replica fora be interested in interchangeability between shock springs. I never did see it with the ETA clones.

 

The 7750 copy is quite nice, until you get to the auto bridge:wacko:

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Overa

6 minutes ago, jaycey said:

Keep us updated, I and presumably the rest of the replica fora be interested in interchangeability between shock springs. I never did see it with the ETA clones.

 

The 7750 copy is quite nice, until you get to the auto bridge:wacko:

Overall it's quite amazing what they have produced here but as you said previously the parts are poor quality and that hasn't changed with this movement.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i Just need some help with my shock spring selection.

I have found the part required for the balance i need Elastor 3.3 1.75

Screenshot_20190531-195936_Instagram.thumb.jpg.5db3821939ede253373cf0be6d13c880.jpg

 

For the escape wheel it would be 3. 1.50

 

Screenshot_20190531-200104_Instagram.thumb.jpg.aac51e8610e4626766433b6f0158a981.jpg

Here is a KIF chart ive made this selection from (on the left)same as J kindly posted above473426681_Screenshot2019-06-01at12_37_37.thumb.png.6a0b67874ac4227e579dd588b31e009e.png.

So when on the Cousins website you get minimal infomation.

Would you select the same as me based on the info i have found?

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/kif-shock-springs

When looking at the 3-2 for the escapement it says next to it (=3-8). Can anyone explain this, does this affect my selection?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • that band is old as stated, there is a kit that pops up from time to time on selling sites for the repair of these type bands, some of this type are adjustable on a few links, one adjustable type allows you to align the round opening in the expansion slit [like yours] with the rivet to separate, but if yours won't come out then the rivet head is too big and will have to be done with some rivet removal and replacement, I suppose if you could make/optain the correct rivets that one could alter the said band, the tops/caps do lift off after raising the tabs....  
    • This is a watch from a friend who sent it to a neighborhood watchmaker for a battery change. It came back with the watch stem in a ziplock bag and the dial skewed 20°. The watchmaker told him that the stem was faulty and the watch cannot be repaired. I opened up the watch and found that one dial foot was broken off and still stuck in the movement, while the other was bent until it was flat against the dial. The stem could be inserted but it couldn't be pulled out to quickset and time adjusting positions. I did a full disassemble, cleaned and oiled the movement. But when it put in the battery, the second hand runs super fast. Like it gains 30 mins every hour. Any advice on fixing this problem? TIA.
    • I determined that the balance staff is rotating, not the roller table, so my second attempt at riveting was unsuccessful. I have ordered a new balance staff and will take measurements when it arrives. The balance staff i originally ordered (and now reordered) was specified as: Replacement balance staff: (A. Schild Caliber 984 1002 1021 1124 Original Balance Staff Part 723) so it should be correct. Measurements: (see pic below for terminology) xxxyy is a place holder until the new balance staff arrives. Lower pivot: Old - .08 mm New - xxxyy Lower pivot to balance seat: Old - 1.53 mm New - xxxyy Roller shoulder: Old - .42 mm New - xxxyy Hub: Old - xxxyy New - xxxyy Balance shoulder: Old - .86 mm New - xxxyy Collet shoulder: Old - .56 mm New - xxxyy Upper pivot: Old - broken New - xxxyy
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds.  We're here to help. 
    • I was just about to adk that, probably they have unnecessary waiting lists to make their watches appear more exclusive than they actually are.
×
×
  • Create New...