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Well I picked up this little piece of machinery the other day. Ive updated the screws to the blue style. The plan is to cut a two peice divers (as my cnc cant cut threads for a screw back) made from bronze and copper. This is gonna be a challenge so group prayers please. 7820d6d292994859301160a1a0af3c43.jpgc309ade65aaa61788602815dc5dabb96.jpg63d8dac13d651e4aa6ce53a501ff4179.jpg

 

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there were some vintage watches that held the case back on with 4 screws.  vin
The model has 12 torx on the back and 12 allen cap screws on the front. I think ill be changing the screws for the back as well as reducing the number to 10. Well see. I know I build a water tight capsule, the only concers I have are with the crystal and the crown and pushers.

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will you be using any " o  rings " on your case?
Yes. I am basically going to copy whats on the divers I have and cut a groove for the o ring to sit. I need to do research on dimensions for fitment. Do you have any idea on the crystal fitment and crown and pushers? I have several crystals and wonder if the interference fit alone is enough to provide water proofing. Also I used generic tube and crown info from eslinger. The thing is theres no mention in the tech data about water proofing. Only that they do contain o rings. Im sure that most pushers and crown/tube set ups are outsourced. I just need to know where to source them as well as installation specs and specs on the products themselves.

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o ring guide - and specs and  forumlas at parker.com -  good luck.
Thanks Vin. Much appreciated. This will be the first time ive run this machine so ill need all the luck I can get.

Stock has arrived. 3906949165897cb0f9c93b2445fb5435.jpg

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15 hours ago, bjd1020 said:

Thanks Vin. Much appreciated. This will be the first time ive run this machine so ill need all the luck I can get.

Stock has arrived. 3906949165897cb0f9c93b2445fb5435.jpg

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   cutting the gruve for the o ring is most imporant.  vin

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o ring guide - and specs and  forumlas at parker.com -  good luck.

Parker’s are great for o ring data. I use them at work (I’m a mechanical eng). Just pay attention to shore hardness and surface finish of the back plate contact area. Everything else is quite forgiving unless you get the groove too narrow or way over depth. I love the design by the way. It’ll look even better as the years go by!


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Parker’s are great for o ring data. I use them at work (I’m a mechanical eng). Just pay attention to shore hardness and surface finish of the back plate contact area. Everything else is quite forgiving unless you get the groove too narrow or way over depth. I love the design by the way. It’ll look even better as the years go by!


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Thanks. Although I never got my PE its what I spent the majority of my career doing....mostly in the structural area of rotary wing aviation. Within two years post grad I was whisked into the PM side.....and never completed post grad prereqs.

Anyway....I completed my 4th 7750 rebuild last night and I have a 5th in the pipeline....theyre starting to stack up so I need to refocus my efforts on the machining. I think subconsciously im procrastinating as Ill need to freshn up on the CAM. Im gonna start by programming a skim pass on the brass stock. The other challenge is the multiple operation aspect and trying to figure out how to maintain 0,0 when flipping the part. Thanks for chiming in. Ill keep up with the posts. I expect the surface finish to be well within machined surface specs of 63-125. Ill take a look at the charts that you provided. Many thanks. 3c53a8226bff1b853fa714001b52806c.jpg

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2 hours ago, Deggsie said:


Parker’s are great for o ring data. I use them at work (I’m a mechanical eng). Just pay attention to shore hardness and surface finish of the back plate contact area. Everything else is quite forgiving unless you get the groove too narrow or way over depth. I love the design by the way. It’ll look even better as the years go by!


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   "in the groove"  if its proper.  15 thousance compression  will hold 3000 p,s.i.   if i remember wright.    vin

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Hi. Do you have any updates on the exciting post please?


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Ive been TAD and on vacation for the last few weeks so I havent had much time to spend. Im also having issues with the new 3D printer which will need to be addressed as I plan to use it to make some of the tooling necessary. I also have a mini cnc vice on order that im waiting to get in. Itll be another week before we return home then i. TAD again for two weeks. I will be sure to post as soon as I have made any progress. Thanks a bunch for following. Im eager to get this column wheel 7750 varient in a case.

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Slow going but I havent been completely asleep. Between travel for work Ive been sourcing some tools and doing quite a bit if research. Im on 3rd or 4th design fitting iteration. I also sourced the dial for the movement. Not being a standard 7750 but rather the column wheel version my choices were limited. As you can see from the prints below getting the movement to seat correctly was a bit of a challenge. The screws also seem to fit nicely. I will likely go through several more iterations getting the pushers fitted and aligned correctly. Once I have a good model I will proceed to the bronze machining. I also ran into a problem with the printer that took me several weeks to trouble shoot. Im headed back out on the road next week for 14 days and then again in spetember so no promises on a time line. Thanks for keeping tabs. e80f56b0b1ccda18c6d7a1dbf1f0d1de.jpg27a97c44df74d41ae7a0fc340b99ffe4.jpg5134da6e1b6e5810d5e1d50fdc0f1644.jpg8fdb36a41a2675da3b233ef418ce51bc.jpg

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Im back from a month on the road for work and have made some worthy progress. I will say this. Getting all the fitment dims correct for propper spacing is not easy. Lol. But I feel as though the major part is over. The good thing is one this part is done I can save a boiler plate model that I can design off of and itll go much quicker. Ive fitted the back and from crystals and was in the process of tapping the holes when ......snap!! Im gonna have to get a few spares. I think on the cnc itll be a lot let problematic as perpendicular will be maintained. The pushers are also pretty much alinged and the depth is set cirrect. Now I just need to school myself on how to install them. Here are a few pics of the prgress. Sorry for the long drawn out show but life happens besides I sort of like to take my time. I am working on a much simpler design that is based off the uboat style that will basically be layered. Anyhow. I beleive my next step is to get the pushers fitted.....once thats done ill be ready to cnc....thats a whole other ball game but Im fairly confident itll happen. 8651b338ad780e62ccdecdf65c0458a7.jpg150d7e12b470afce13659798a6f4861d.jpg91a1e25705ba535f3fcbf7aa90c435be.jpg7dc3b2e12128e3b11c2df137f829b781.jpg10be921013c0f9e417a4ac243d5e8218.jpg

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Adding the movement. I posted this solo but didnt get any response. For the sake of continuity this will be the movement that will go into the build. However I am having a real difficult time sourcing a dial. Any suggestions??3c2ecb4b2cba44d10bc990a2ca0fe700.jpge7c5aff47e7b82d69bccce89614fb69b.jpg

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