Jump to content
GregC

Today's watch with leather strap I made

Recommended Posts

On 5/29/2019 at 9:33 PM, yankeedog said:

very nice, please enlighten.

Making watch straps led me to fixing watches. I in the past would replace my own watch batteries and I was doing leatherwork after my accident to keep me occupied. I made all sorts of things with leather and eventually came to start making watch straps. The one you see here is made from alligator embossed leather. I could have made it with real alligator skin but alligator skin is very expensive, in the range of $400+ and I dont have a ready market for the stuff I make. But anyway, the strap is made of 2 pieces of leather glued back to back and stitched together. The edge is slicked and finished with leather dye. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I appreciate your work. I have made a few straps myself , much simpler than yours, most out of black nylon webbing  . Since it only has to fit me I use a heavy duty dritz snap. Sometimes I  just cut a piece of leather from a bag of scraps I got at hobby lobby.  I find the snaps work very well, they reduce the stress that bending and flexing the leather through the buckle causes.What intrigues me most though is your stichting. This is an art that just evades me,mine just look awful , so I avoid doing it. If you could please explain how you do it ,I would be thankful

 

Edited by yankeedog

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use mostly Eco Flo products from Tandy Leather but there are others like Fiebings. The accompanying picture has some of the things used in making a watch strap and also in the pic are some of the earlier straps I made which are quite simple. You start with a fairly thin piece of leather and cut it to shape, make sure the edge is straight then you skive the edge down so it will bend to fit over the pin. You would then use an edge beveler (the thing with the mahogany colored handle in the pic) to bevel the edge so as to make it rounded on both sides, top and bottom. Then you would slick the edges with an edge slicker (the 3 wood things in the pic). You would use the groove that best fits the leather you're slicking. Just dip your finger in some water or gum tragacanth and run it along the edge and rub the slicker vigorously back and forth until the edge is slicked and smooth. Let it dry and then apply stain with a damp sponge. Let dry then fold over the ends you're going to sew, apply some glue, then mark your stitching line with wing dividers then use the stitching chisels to make the holes. There are 4 stitching chisels in the pic, the one with the most prongs is used for  long straight lines and the 2 prong for curves.  You would then get needle and thread and sew her up using a saddle stitch, backstitch 1 hole, cut your thread and burn the ends to melt it.

When stitching along the length of the strap, it is helpful to get a stitching pony, that is the gizmo on the right of the pic. You sit on it and place the work in the jaws and clamp it down in such a way that the row of holes are about 1/2" above the jaw and then to make sure the hole is clear, you would use a sewing awl. It is the awl with the short tip and you push it through the first hole you made then you start stitching. This was probably the hardest part of leatherwork for me to master.

IMG_20190602_220537.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank You! I am no longer clueless. The stitching chisels pre punch the leather at regular intervals so you don't have to force the needle through ,and the slicker gives you the finished edge...thanks again for the quick education!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Its my pleasure to share what little knowledge I have. I know next to nothing about watches and clocks and even the simplest things give me lots of problems. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
28 minutes ago, Squiffything said:

You have skills Gregg so when you post it is inspiring to others. Let’s have more of your stuff.

I dont have much more pertaining to watches and clocks, just this last leather band. I was to make a raised centre band but I got caught up in the scrollsaw cuckoo clock. I made other leather things like bracelets, wallets, belts and even art but those are not pertinent to this forum. This is another el cheapo watch and the first I came across with this type of band. The pin for some reason didnt want to come out so I actually sewed this band together on the watch and it came out pretty good. I've seen bands that guys made for pocket watches and I was gonna make one for a Bulova I have but I managed to fix the band it came with it. 

 

 

IMG_20190323_140346.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Very nice work! I would recommend using www.esslinger.com for leather punching tools, and ever other tool under the sun! They have made work a lot easier. They also do a assemble my own watch kit as well!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Just now, sean1996 said:

Very nice work! I would recommend using www.esslinger.com for leather punching tools, and ever other tool under the sun! They have made work a lot easier. They also do a assemble my own watch kit as well!

I have all the leatherwork tools I need. I bought the buckle for this strap from esslinger in a kit of mixed buckles, however, I prefer to support my local watch supply store which I recently found not too long ago.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Squiffything said:

You have skills Gregg so when you post it is inspiring to others. Let’s have more of your stuff.

100% agreement.This is something you have explained very simply  .so that a guy with average aptitude in this area sees that he can do it too. Something I wanted to know more about,and now plan to do.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you guys are interested in making watch straps and looking for tools, there are kits on Amazon and ebay that have most of the tools needed plus thread for around $50-$75. These tools if bought individually would cost near $500 at Tandy or other leather shops. Tandy sells thread for $10 alone. When I started that was what I bought and I still use them. You can also get them on aliexpress along with templates for straps but you would have to wait a long time. Making a watch strap is not hard but it calls for a lot of tools and a very sharp knife.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • UPDATE:  I know it's been a while, but I wanted to give an update to what I've done so far (which isn't much), what I'm seeing, and how I plan to proceed. I also had an oiling question. So as Nucejoe recommended, I started by running the movement and seeing how long it took for the power reserve to run it's course which was actually just over 48 hours. That's absolutely within spec, so that ended up not being an issue. The second hand was still stopping at 3 seconds after 12. Unfortunately I had a rookie moment, and neglected to pull the crown out to the setting position (3rd) when removing the movement to run the next test. So without pulling the crown all the way out, it's impossible to properly reinsert it! So with that, I was forced to remove the hands, dial, date mechanism, and half the keyless works in order to get the stem back in. In that process, I found out that the stem is bent. I purchased this used, and when I received it the crown barely had the threads to screw down. Thinking a bent stem was related to that and not wanting that to happen again, I purchased a new Omega stem. After that I was able to run another test and this time the second hand did not stop in the same place it usually did. Huzzah! I ran that test three more times and the second stopped at a different place every time! Success....except, because I had to skip a few tests (e.g. with dial on, dial off, date off and so forth) I don't know EXACTLY what that issue is, but I at least have an idea.  Next up, the balance. On my inspection, I could not find any obvious faults. The cap stones did not look out of place, unless its very very slight. Wasn't sure how visible a shifted cap stone would look. I have observed that it does not stop its motion in what I would consider a natural way. It stops rather suddenly. I did purchase (in all my many purchases for this project) an etachron key, as well as learned what its for and how to use it. I carefully opened up the regulator pins on the etachron system and removed the stud (I learned this from another video) and removed the balance complete. My initial inspection at 15x did not show any obvious bends or anything like that in the pivots. So I just ordered a USB microscope and will take a closer look. Hopefully the pivots just need to be thoroughly cleaned, but if not, I already have a balance complete I can use (I don't have the skills nor tools to replace a balance staff). I'm hoping it won't come to that.  Once I removed the balance, and the pallet fork, I ran the gear train to see how that looked. Again, what I'm seeing is that it doesn't release power in a smooth natural way. It gets choppy at the end of the run where it will stop-go-stop-go and then finally stop. If you shake it a little bit it will go just a little bit more. When I received this watch a few years ago, I was told it was serviced and was given a service record, but on my inspection, the parts are not nearly as clean as I would like them. I have found residue on the bridges and rotor, and the gears do not look as clean as I would hope. So I don't know exactly what was done, but I'm not confident that all my pivots are as clean as they need to be. Or that it was properly oiled.  So that's it...that's where I'm at right now. I plan to disassemble bit by bit, and inspect everything (endshake, sideshake and close microscope inspection) so I can hopefully fault find. I'm sorry this was so long, thank you for reading if you got all the way through. One question I did have concerns oiling. I've watched Marc's video on servicing the Omega 2500 (which from what I understand is exactly like the 1120, but with the co-axil) and I've noticed that he oils the winding pinion, sliding pinion, and stem with Moebius 9501 (cause it's blue) and not the recommended HP-1300 (which is red) from the technical sheets. I do not have the 9501, I purchased 9504 instead cause that was a change that was made on the technical sheets. So which should I use? Is there a reason that the HP-1300 is not used? Ok, again thank you so much for your input. I didn't add pics, cause I didn't think there was anything to really show just yet. It looks like what you'd expect.
    • Thank-you JDM, very helpful.  I will contact them.  The screws I need are very tiny but not as tiny as those for mov'ts. 
    • what ever gets the job done.
    • Another Setback. I thought I would try securing the balance by restating it, but I left the roller table on and thought it would hold up to the pounding. I thought wrong. The roller table is made of brass and simply crushed. Ahhhhhh, should have taken it off prior to re-riveting the balance. Now I need another roller table or simply call this a scrap movement. Good news is I got it for free. “Should have simply JB Welded the balance back on” and I know, not normally acceptable. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    • Hello all. I just received a Bulova Marine Star watch for a work anniversary gift, and I’m trying to remove links. The problem is the flathead slots on the tiny screws are extremely shallow, and none of my my small screwdrivers will turn them. I know I could take it to a jeweler, but I’m sure there must be a way I can do it myself. Any ideas? Thanks very much 
×
×
  • Create New...