So there is this timex automatic i found online from a reputable seller. I cant find much about it anywhere. Ive been looking for a timex automatic but already have a few watches that look like the marlin. This one is a little different and i like it. Any info would be greatly appreciated
I open this thread to archive works on Citizen 8110A Bullhead. I purchased this watch in poor condition as You can see on the photos.
Cause I have serviced few chronographs in the past I decide to try restore this watch. Maybe is not ractional from the economical aspect but we do this because we love it So let's open it.
Hands are in good condition (required repaint and relume) but the dial has broken legs and tachy scale is faded :/ I think it's really hard to find orginal and there is no gold aftermarket replacement - sad. Look at the movement.
Gosh, what a dirty place It needs good cleaning and oiling.
But the biggest problems are this.
Broken post on main spring bridge and missing rocking bar core and screw in gear train. I need to find replacement.
While I'll be working on movement the case and pushers are send to renew - putting new gold plated coat
I have a Rotary Monza I am fixing up. I disassembled the barrel and removed and cleaned the mainspring. I secured a copy of the parts list and it shows that as well as the mainspring, there is also a Brake Spring (part 775 on the picture). What is it, and do I really need it? Certainly Cousins does not sell it. I googled AS 1902 brake spring and ONE result came up of a Russian watch forum discussing this item. Apparently it is thicker than a normal spring and it seems to have some sort of bent over feature on it. Can I just make one using the old mainspring? If so, how long should it be? Is it really necessary?
ROTARY Monza AS 1902.pdf
I just recently finished servicing two Omega Speedmaster Reduced (equipped with the ETA 2892-A2 coupled with chrono module Dubois Dépraz 2020) for a couple of friends and both watches are having the same issue. I'm an amateur and just service watches for family and friends.
The automatic work is not fully winding the movement and both watches are stopping after 6 days of use. Very curious that the two watches are showing exactly the same behavior!!
I have tried everything and I'm not being able to get the automatic work to wind the watches for long period of time without the need to give it a manual wind. What else can I do? People wearing the watches are quite active and don't have the same issue with other automatic watches.
See below a measure of the timegrapher for 6 days of wearing the watch without manual winding (except for first day):
Rate Amplitude Day 1 (full manual winding) +20 299 Day 2 +13 280 Day 3 +7 261 Day 4 -23 238 Day 5 -12 211 Day 6 Stopped
Some info regarding the service:
- All parts were carefully washed and carefully oiled as per ETA technical chart
- Replaced mainspring with new one ordered from Cousins (GR25341X). I measured both new and old mainsprings and they are they are the same
- Replaced reversing wheel with new one ordered from Cousins
- Checked the oscillating weight and bearing and all seems fine. There is not looseness and it all seems very aligned and in place
- Oiled the oscillating weight bearing with 4 very small drops of Moebius 9010 on 4 of the metal spheres (don't have much experience on this one, hope it is ok)
- All the automatic work seems to work perfectly when I manually tested the rotation of the oscillating weight with the movement out of the case
Only thing I did not replace yet is the bearing of the oscillating weight. I'm reluctant to do so since current one seems to be just fine and I don't to want spend money for a part that seems to be just fine.
What else can I do?
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AS Watchweasol said..To remove the springs you HAVE to let down the power on all the barrels before doing anything to this movement, as I found out when I first started the hobby many years ago. If you have never taken a movement apart before, this is Not really the best movement to learn on. Hope all goes well for you.. Len
Hi like jdm I also have one of these chinese versions. Ok its not bergeon but it doe's the job. Like most things in life the justification for the expense is based on how much use is it going to get. If you are opening lots of watches on a regular basis and want precision then get a bergeon if not then these are adequate .
I think that can be caused only by the square pieces that hold the bits to be different height, and/or the bits themselves to not be accurate. It should be correctable without any special tool. Check that the square parts mentioned above are assembled correctly, that is they are inserted on the same turn of the threaded bar. Also, avoid tightening their knobs, so they can align better.