Jump to content
  • ×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

      Only 75 emoji are allowed.

    ×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

    ×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

    ×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

    • By Plusfoursmax
      Hi,
      I have a Rotary Monza I am fixing up. I disassembled the barrel and removed and cleaned the mainspring. I secured a copy of the parts list and it shows that as well as the mainspring, there is also a Brake Spring (part 775 on the picture). What is it, and do I really need it? Certainly Cousins does not sell it. I googled AS 1902 brake spring and ONE result came up of a Russian watch forum discussing this item. Apparently it is thicker than a normal spring and it seems to have some sort of bent over feature on it. Can I just make one using the old mainspring? If so, how long should it be? Is it really necessary?
      https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ru&u=http://forum.watch.ru/showthread.php%3Fp%3D5196915&prev=search
      ROTARY Monza AS 1902.pdf
    • By abhishekgodbole
      Hey guys need some advice and a talk about my watch, actually it is my dad's and want to repair and gift him on his birthday,as I am falling a little short on money I hope I could fix this myself!
    • By Cmmb8519
      Hi all
      I just recently finished servicing two Omega Speedmaster Reduced (equipped with the ETA 2892-A2 coupled with chrono module Dubois Dépraz 2020) for a couple of friends and both watches are having the same issue. I'm an amateur and just service watches for family and friends.
      The automatic work is not fully winding the movement and both watches are stopping after 6 days of use. Very curious that the two watches are showing exactly the same behavior!!
      I have tried everything and I'm not being able to get the automatic work to wind the watches for long period of time without the need to give it a manual wind. What else can I do? People wearing the watches are quite active and don't have the same issue with other automatic watches.
      See below a measure of the timegrapher for 6 days of wearing the watch without manual winding (except for first day):
        Rate Amplitude Day 1 (full manual winding) +20 299 Day 2 +13 280 Day 3 +7 261 Day 4 -23 238 Day 5 -12 211 Day 6 Stopped  
      Some info regarding the service:
      - All parts were carefully washed and carefully oiled as per ETA technical chart
      - Replaced mainspring with new one ordered from Cousins (GR25341X). I measured both new and old mainsprings and they are they are the same
      - Replaced reversing wheel with new one ordered from Cousins
      - Checked the oscillating weight and bearing and all seems fine. There is not looseness and it all seems very aligned and in place
      - Oiled the oscillating weight bearing with 4 very small drops of Moebius 9010 on 4 of the metal spheres (don't have much experience on this one, hope it is ok)
      - All the automatic work seems to work perfectly when I manually tested the rotation of the oscillating weight with the movement out of the case
      Only thing I did not replace yet is the bearing of the oscillating weight. I'm reluctant to do so since current one seems to be just fine and I don't to want spend money for a part that seems to be just fine.
      What else can I do? 
      Many thanks
    • By wilding
      Hello there watch fix fans. Here's (I hope) an interesting one for you.
      I have this beautiful small ladies 'Fero Feldmann' Swiss-made watch - it came in a bag of "used and to be repaired" watches.
      From what I can see, the mechanism seems in very good working order. Just a slight shake and it goes and goes. There is no strap, but that is not the issue here.
      The problem is the stem and/or crown. As you can see, there is definitely no crown. But I am wondering about the stem.
      The watch does have its case and edoes have, as you can see, a hole where the stem and/or crown will/should fit in.
      There is something which appears to be some kind of part-stem at the 3 o'clock position.
      Using tweezers I can pull it out and push it back in quite freely. A very small screw on top holds this "stem" in place. I think you can see, in ths second photo, how this "stem" attaches to the rest of the movement.
      Clearly I need to attach a crown. BUT what about a stem? A stem extension? Or one of those crowns which has an extended stem-like attachment which should fix onto this current "stem" in this watch?
      Yes, the watch face is somewhat scratched, and the minute hand is a little bent at the top. You may say it is not worth my while trying to get this fixed. But I just SO MUCH like this little watch and would LOVE to give it life again! It clearly IS still "alive" - though I'm not sure if it is a mechanical wind-up or an automatic. The latter of these seems to be the case - as I said earlier, a little shake and the mechanism goes and goes. PErhaps with a little oil (and lots of encouragement) it can be made good.
      So my main question - what kind of stem/crown to attach and how to do it?
       


    • By east3rn
      Hello. 
      I recently serviced a PUW 1561 automatic movement.
      This was my first time servicing automatic movement and I am not confident on lubricating barrel wall.
      I purchased Moebius 8217, breaking grease for the barrel wall.
      The whole service was a quite long process for me so I will just get to my point.
      On the cleaned barrel wall, I applied thin layer of 8217 thinking that too much would not do any good.
      Then I placed the mainspring and applied 3 drops of Moebius 8200 before closed the barrel cap.
      After I had assembled the watch, I tried winding it. It wound well but I could hear the mainspring slip in side the barrel when I felt some tension on the crown as I was winding.
      I know that automatic mainspring slips along the barrel wheel but never experienced such 'obvious' slipping sound.
      I guess the timegrapher tells that service was not that bad but I just don't feel right when hand winding the watch.
      Is it something wrong in the barrel? May be I should have applied the 8217 more thicker?
      Thanks for always helping me out. 
       
       



  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Just noticed that Mark Lovick uses thin oil (Moebius 9010) for the 3rd wheel in his ETA 2824-2 service video (@8:58). This goes against the recommendation of the ETA technical sheet for the 2824-2, but I believe he does so for a reason. If you read this Mark your comment would be appreciated! While on the topic; what would the effect of using a thick oil be when applied to a pivot where we'd usually apply a thin oil, such as the escape wheel?  
    • Good work. You don't need much. Pity suppliers don't sell it in tiny amounts. 
    • Just to update: I got about a tablespoon of shellac flakes from my BHI DLC assessor, and they work great. I just put a tiny chip of it on top of the pallet, heat it until it becomes semi-fluid and spread it to the right places with a sharpened oiler. Then heat a bit more so that it flows out nicely. I think one tablespoon will fix a lifetime of pallets.. All the other shellacs I have I'll use for cementing workpieces etc. Cheers!      Rob
    • I'm not sure how up to date that guide is. Pretty much every service manual I come across lubes 4th and escape with thin oil but 3rd with thick oil. Even Seiko agrees, showing thick oil being applied to the uncapped side of the 3rd wheel.
    • There's several editions of the Rolls Razor. I have one myself. The one in your pic, given the case, is probably the Silver Edition of the Imperial 2 Rolls Razor. Ones without the case were nickel. And there's several other editions as mentioned. How you tell them apart is the exterior design on the metal case. Personally, I like the Rolls. And there's some interesting facts about the company and the owner. The owner, even after the company folded took all the inventory he had of the Rolls and up till it ran out or he passed away (I can't remember which) he honored the warranty and you could buy blades and replacement parts from him. Just by writing to him in England somewhere. I heard great things about him online. Not something you see from many, especially after the company folds. You can get the blades rehoned true. A couple places do it and one offers new blades they themselves make for them. Practice on a balloon.. I did. Lol. A fresh open blade on that thing.. it'll make you nervous bringing it to you face the first time. There's a video of a guy on YouTube of a guys first time with the Rolls and what he thought of the shave.. He liked it from what I remember. Felt it was as close as he was getting from other blades he tried. So..    I "saw" a very interesting 7 day set at the antique shop where i bought my Rolls. I've never seen another like it. I don't know who made it, maybe you do. It was a complete valay(sp?) of wood, dark in color. It included the brush, cup and a rack which held 7 razors, each marked for the day of the week. The rack which was metal, and all the razors where gold plated. Or gold... I wasn't allowed to touch it but he did show it to me. Price tag was up there, I remember that. Way up there. He had it in its own display case right next to his desk.  The handles and razor rack where all scrolled and fancy. It sure was pretty... Like a Rolls, as far as the blades, but definitely not a Rolls. Ever seen one like it?
×
×
  • Create New...