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    • When you slowly turn the crown backwards in setting position, you are actually applying an opposite force to the train of wheels through the cannon pinion to take enough force from the mainspring power to stop the movement. It doesn't jam the works.
    • Hello All, Hope you're safe, doing well and in good health. As an update, I managed to source a click spring and the seconds wheel. After a lot of struggle - mainly because I was scared - I managed to put the click and click spring back together in the process of assembling the movement. In the final step of putting the balance, I couldn't get the movement to run. This is the first issue. I can say that the train wheel bridge and pallet fork are all seated correctly in their pivots as I kept checking the function every time I went a step further. I'd also add that I've used Mobi 9020 when oiling the pivots as I'm waiting for my supply of 9010 and other oils+greases although I don't think that would be a major problem. It is also very possible that the oiling is not an A grade job. The first round of putting the watch back together is an experiment to see if I can get the watch to tick. I will redo the whole project once I have the oils. In this current build, I was not even going to proceed with the keyless works; rather disassemble the movement. The two other issues are; 1. After I removed the balance, I tried to tap the pallet fork to see if it is gripping the escape wheel on the entry and exit points but I couldn't see that happening like what I've seen in some of Mark's and other videos on YT. 2. I had wound the mainspring a few turns just to have some power in when I put in the balance. As the escape wheel was unresponsive, I tried to unwind the mainspring to release any power but when i disengaged the click, the barrel didn't turn. Worryingly, this is exactly what I saw when I first disassembled the movement and when I took out the pallet fork, a lot power was released which apparently damaged the seconds wheel. Can someone please advise what could be the problem here with the three issues I've mentioned?  Any help will be greatly appreciated. P.S. This is my first project of restoring my Grandfather's watch.
    • Hello (again!), another update; I've removed the movement from the case and dial, re-attached the set lever, and unwound the watch. I guess my next step is disassembly - I was going to attempt something along the lines of this: http://archive.horlogerie-suisse.com/Theoriehorlogerie/disassembling-mechanical-watch.html Does that sound like a sensible approach?
    • So the dial code is: 23772 2573.  I got the watch for Christmas 1973 There was a watch on fleabay, see picture, that looked very similar to mine but with a blue dial instead of orange. I didn't bid on it because the seller didn't reply to my question and I don't want to buy something that isn't suitable. I have not seen any others apart from an orange one the same as mine but complete with winder, see second picture, but my bid was not high enough to win. Other Timex Diver's that I have seen for sale seem to have slightly larger cases with 18mm lug spaces compared to mine which is 16mm. None of this seems to be as straight forward as I first thought!
    • Hello, My Seiko 5 just showed up, from Amazon Canada.  I'm a bit disappointed the movement is stamped "Malaysia" I did not do enough diligence to realize I was buying the Malaysian model.  Not a big deal it was only meant to wear at work and take apart into tiny pieces. I'm just wondering if someone can please explain HOW the crown jams the second hand when slowly reversing the minute hand.  If anyone is familiar with the mechanics involved in accomplishing this please describe what happens, thanks a lot. I understand how to perform the procedure I am not sure how it works inside though. 
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