Jump to content

Timex M25 caliber handwound movement won't wind


Recommended Posts

The watch I've got has an M25 movement (from what i could see in the model #) and the issue is that, in the winding position, the crown will now wind. It will spin in reverse, and i can pull it out to the time setting position and it sets the time no problem. So something is "stuck" inside. Any ideas as to what it could be?

15582109824151173945785242358289.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, bodymassagewatch said:

The watch I've got has an M25 movement (from what i could see in the model #) and the issue is that, in the winding position, the crown will now wind. It will spin in reverse, and i can pull it out to the time setting position and it sets the time no problem. So something is "stuck" inside. Any ideas as to what it could be?

15582109824151173945785242358289.jpg

I suspect it is fully wound, and simply doesn't run. Probably in need of a clean.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes fully wound but won't run  due to dirt or lack of lubrication, run it immersed in naphtha. Dial and hands removed. That ought to clean out the dirt and old sludge.Then run it again if the fluid is dirty. let dry ,lubricate sparingly pay attention to the hairspring when doing so the watch wont run if it is not completely dry. 

Edited by yankeedog
content
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, yankeedog said:

Yes fully wound but won't run  due to dirt or lack of lubrication, run it immersed in naphtha. Dial and hands removed. That ought to clean out the dirt and old sludge.Then run it again if the fluid is dirty. let dry ,lubricate sparingly pay attention to the hairspring when doing so the watch wont run if it is not completely dry. 

Ok, i will try that. Thank you!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

synthetic 0w20 motor oil.I have had good results with it. I have tried ATF , but it is too thin. I have tried hypoid gear oil, but it is too thick.now mind you I don't work on anything too expensive. according to the viscosity chart  0w20 and 0w30  have a thickness very similar to moebius oils used for general lubrication.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 minutes ago, yankeedog said:

synthetic 0w20 motor oil.I have had good results with it. I have tried ATF , but it is too thin. I have tried hypoid gear oil, but it is too thick.now mind you I don't work on anything too expensive. according to the viscosity chart  0w20 and 0w30  have a thickness very similar to moebius oils used for general lubrication.

Fantastic, I can pick that up today! Again, thanks for your help!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

37 minutes ago, yankeedog said:

synthetic 0w20 motor oil.I have had good results with it. I have tried ATF , but it is too thin. I have tried hypoid gear oil, but it is too thick.now mind you I don't work on anything too expensive. according to the viscosity chart  0w20 and 0w30  have a thickness very similar to moebius oils used for general lubrication.

I have a 1/2 litre of 0W30 sitting idle. I'm up for experimenting with it, so I'll pick a suitable "victim" and let you know how I get on.

Slightly off topic, I was getting nagged by the on board computer on my Volvo to put in 1/2 litre of oil (it is a diesel, and the manual calls for 0W30). Naturally nobody sells 1/2 ltr of the stuff, so you have to purchase 1ltr and since it is due a service, so the whole lot will be changed soon anyway, it is all a bit of a faff. 

The dratted vehicle doesn't even have a dipstick. The computer senses the oil level, and there is no other way of checking it,  so presumably if the sensor fails, the first thing I will know about it is when the engine explodes.

What is so difficult about checking the oil for goodness sake? I've managed in every one of the (very many) other vehicles I've ever owned or driven, but this one assumes I'm either an idiot, or a snowflake who shudders at the though of opening the bonnet (or the hood, if you live on the sunny side of the pond). 

Everything these days is over complicated by the un-necessary addition of "toys". I'm surprised the thing doesn't phone up Volvo and complain about me for ignoring its nagging for a week.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/19/2019 at 1:41 PM, yankeedog said:

Yes fully wound but won't run  due to dirt or lack of lubrication, run it immersed in naphtha. Dial and hands removed. That ought to clean out the dirt and old sludge.Then run it again if the fluid is dirty. let dry ,lubricate sparingly pay attention to the hairspring when doing so the watch wont run if it is not completely dry. 

Naptha - aka lighter fluid. Cheap and easily sourced. In the UK, I use lighter fluid from Asda or Poundland. Both worked fine on the Timex movements I've cleaned recently.  Expect to pay.. about a pound, for a small can (100ml). 

The purists will no doubt be spluttering in to their coffee about all of this talk of lighter fluid and engine oils, but they are a reasonable substitute for more specialist watch products, if you are only doing inexpensive movements at the hobby level.

If you plan on doing this for a living, or servicing a family heirloom, then I would suggest stick with the tried and tested, branded, specialist watch cleaning and lubrication products.

Edited by AndyHull
Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, AndyHull said:

Naptha - aka lighter fluid. Cheap and easily sourced. In the UK, I use lighter fluid from Asda or Poundland. Both worked fine on the Timex movements I've cleaned recently.  Expect to pay.. about a pound, for a small can (100ml). 

The purists will no doubt be spluttering in to their coffee about all of this talk of lighter fluid and engine oils, but they are a reasonable substitute for more specialist watch products, if you are only doing inexpensive movements at the hobby level.

If you plan on doing this for a living, or servicing a family heirloom, then I would suggest stick with the tried and tested, branded, specialist watch cleaning and lubrication products.

100% agreement.As I have stated many times.Don't do this on your Rolex!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, AndyHull said:

I have a 1/2 litre of 0W30 sitting idle. I'm up for experimenting with it, so I'll pick a suitable "victim" and let you know how I get on.

Slightly off topic, I was getting nagged by the on board computer on my Volvo to put in 1/2 litre of oil (it is a diesel, and the manual calls for 0W30). Naturally nobody sells 1/2 ltr of the stuff, so you have to purchase 1ltr and since it is due a service, so the whole lot will be changed soon anyway, it is all a bit of a faff. 

The dratted vehicle doesn't even have a dipstick. The computer senses the oil level, and there is no other way of checking it,  so presumably if the sensor fails, the first thing I will know about it is when the engine explodes.

What is so difficult about checking the oil for goodness sake? I've managed in every one of the (very many) other vehicles I've ever owned or driven, but this one assumes I'm either an idiot, or a snowflake who shudders at the though of opening the bonnet (or the hood, if you live on the sunny side of the pond). 

Everything these days is over complicated by the un-necessary addition of "toys". I'm surprised the thing doesn't phone up Volvo and complain about me for ignoring its nagging for a week.

Ack! People wonder why I still drive my Volvo 240 Gasoline red block.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Motor oil? aye aye aye!!!!!  get some bearing grease too...which btw I have found in at few watches :(

if you don't want to buy a synthetic watch oil you can use a synthetic lubricant with Teflon.  I bought two pen sized tubes from Radio Shack 12 years ago and still have at least 1/3 left in each.  

and you have to by watch grease to use on the stem tubes and area where the set lever pivots. Also, just a dab where the winding gear meets the mainspring gear.  Works wonders!

Basic "Network 54 Vintage Timex Watch Forum" method 3 cleaners.  ammonia , water, lighter fluid > soak rinse soak, oil grease

 

and on a personal note - just back from cardiologist and all is going very well since heart attack 7 weeks ago.  Dropped 10 pounds so far and feeling great.  He gave me the okay to resume normal activities and can't wait to get back to the garden.   

Edited by JerseyMo
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, JerseyMo said:

Motor oil? aye aye aye!!!!!  get some bearing grease too...which btw I have found in at few watches :(

if you don't want to buy a synthetic watch oil you can use a synthetic lubricant with Teflon.  I bought two pen sized tubes from Radio Shack 12 years ago and still have at least 1/3 left in each.  

and you have to by watch grease to use on the stem tubes and area where the set lever pivots. Also, just a dab where the winding gear meets the mainspring gear.  Works wonders!

Basic "Network 54 Vintage Timex Watch Forum" method 3 cleaners.  ammonia , water, lighter fluid > soak rinse soak, oil grease

 

and on a personal note - just back from cardiologist and all is going very well since heart attack 7 weeks ago.  Dropped 10 pounds so far and feeling great.  He gave me the okay to resume normal activities and can't wait to get back to the garden.   

How about Moebius 8000 oil?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, JerseyMo said:

and on a personal note - just back from cardiologist and all is going very well since heart attack 7 weeks ago.  Dropped 10 pounds so far and feeling great.  He gave me the okay to resume normal activities and can't wait to get back to the garden.

Great news.:Bravo:

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
    • this is something I've never quite understood about the some of the Swiss companies. In 1957 Omega was using 9010 for the keyless parts with epilam. there's been a slow migration towards using heavier lubrication's but still typically oils and epilam to keep them in place. When it seems like 9504 works so much better.  
    • OK, welcome in the world of alarm clocks... I guess the 4th wheel is dished because it is from another movement. If it was not dishet, then it would not mesh with the pinion of the escape wheel, am I right? The marks of wear on the 4th wheel pinion doesn't corespond to the 3th wheel table position, at list this is what i see on the picts. Calculating the rate is easy - there is a formula - BR = T2 x T3 x T4 x T5 x 2 /(P3 x P4 x P5) where T2 - T5 are the counts of the teeth of the wheels tables, and P3 - P5 are the counts of the pinion leaves. Vibrating the balance is easy - grasp for the hairspring where it should stay in the regulator with tweasers, let the balance hang on the hairspring while the downside staff tip rests on glass surface. Then make the balance oscillate and use timer to measure the time for let say 50 oscillations, or count the oscillations for let say 30 seconds. You must do the free oscillations test to check the balance staff tips and the cone cup bearings for wear. This kind of staffs wear and need resharpening to restore the normal function of the balance.
    • Glue a nut to the barrel lid, insert a bolt, pull, disolve the glue.  Maybe someone will have a better answer. 
×
×
  • Create New...