Jump to content

Most Useless Watch Tool


jdrichard

Recommended Posts

I have a crystal lift like that, made by Vigor. It works, but seems a bit sketchy at how it grabs the edges of soft plastic with sharp metal. I'm sure that it puts scratches around the crystal even if you can't see them without magnification. Plus, it's always a pucker-factor 15 to get the crystal's diameter decreased enough to get it inserted. But since I don't have the proper Longines wrenches for monocoque cases, it's all I can use.

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a crystal lift like that, made by Vigor. It works, but seems a bit sketchy at how it grabs the edges of soft plastic with sharp metal. I'm sure that it puts scratches around the crystal even if you can't see them without magnification. Plus, it's always a pucker-factor 15 to get the crystal's diameter decreased enough to get it inserted. But since I don't have the proper Longines wrenches for monocoque cases, it's all I can use.
 

Just need a proper plastic crystal press.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, jdrichard said:


Just need a proper plastic crystal press.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

You mean a GS type press? I do have one, but for some reason I didn't think it would work on my monocoque Wittnauers, etc. My thinking is that the GS press that I have, you have to put the crystal facing down in the support. The case, generally without a back, has to go over the plunger facing downward in order drop over the crystal. With the one-piece case, the back is not removable, so the plunger cannot pass through a bezel or open back case. Am I wrong, or is this a different type than you are referring to?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use mine regularly, as vinn3 states on vintage watches.

Just used it the other day to fit a 14.4mm crystal onto a late 1950s ladies Certina.

That's the smallest crystal I've fitted and it was nearly at the limit of my tool as I just have the cheap Anchor brand one, but it has worked every time I have used it..

You also need the small base for holding the crystal for the tool to work though, this makes the claw grip the crystal just off the base of it so you can drop the crystal home whilst still compressed and then release the tension and it just expands into place.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've just used both the lift tool, and the crystal press, in the process of fixing a Timex. They are a little tricky to get right, and they don't work well in every case, and I did manage to drop the movement on the floor due to my ham-fisted efforts with the lift tool.

I wouldn't say it is  *THE* most useless tool, but perhaps one of the most tricky to use, and not appropriate for some crystals.

Popping the crystal out is often much easier with your thumbs, but obviously you can't do that with a front loader.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was going to nominate one of these... 

hammer.jpg&f=1

... but I believe there are a few people who use them to 're-allign' Timex watches.

Sacrilege to my eyes.

Using it to 're-alligning' an overpriced  Daniel Wellington, or maybe a dime store quartz possibly I could forgive, but not a Timex.  :P

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

just used my crystal lift on a friends roamer(question posted earlier!) and it was a doddle both off and on.mine is a Liberty made in india,a good price and quite solid.does the job well.also use a crystal press when needed.both handy to have.B

I find removing the crystal May be ok, however, installing it with those very touchy claws is way too difficult.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was going to nominate one of these... 
hammer.jpg%26f=1&key=b24d126953cea2e57cb43cdd67a9e6af46678fe4b0c8ddde7ceb61f3949788fa
... but I believe there are a few people who use them to 're-allign' Timex watches.
Sacrilege to my eyes.
Using it to 're-alligning' an overpriced  Daniel Wellington, or maybe a dime store quartz possibly I could forgive, but not a Timex.  [emoji14]

Is that a Left or Right Handed Hammer?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've just used both the lift tool, and the crystal press, in the process of fixing a Timex. They are a little tricky to get right, and they don't work well in every case, and I did manage to drop the movement on the floor due to my ham-fisted efforts with the lift tool.
I wouldn't say it is  *THE* most useless tool, but perhaps one of the most tricky to use, and not appropriate for some crystals.
Popping the crystal out is often much easier with your thumbs, but obviously you can't do that with a front loader.

I too use my thumbs to pop out the crystal and a front loader would need the claws??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, jdrichard said:


... and a front loader would need the claws??
 

I grabbed the crystal with the claws, then held the lift tool between my knees and gave the movement plate a playful tap with a plastic rod and the useless tool I mentioned above.

Not the most subtle method, but very reliable for sending the watch in to orbit, and you do need to do that at least once a week, or you 'aint trying hard enough. Second try worked like a charm, and the movement, crystal and movement plate parted with the case quite nicely.

Something makes me suspect there may be a better way of doing this. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I nominate the 3D printed mainspring winder that I printed and tried yesterday which successfully butchered a Seiko 7019A mainspring for me. :thumbsu:

At least that spring wasn't in the best fettle to begin with.

Back to winding in by hand unless someone wants to donate a spring winder set?:D

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I nominate the 3D printed mainspring winder that I printed and tried yesterday which successfully butchered a Seiko 7019A mainspring for me. :thumbsu:
At least that spring wasn't in the best fettle to begin with.
Back to winding in by hand unless someone wants to donate a spring winder set?[emoji3]

Spring winder sets are easy to find on eBay. Or just do it by hand.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I nominate the 3D printed mainspring winder that I printed and tried yesterday which successfully butchered a Seiko 7019A mainspring for me. :thumbsu:
At least that spring wasn't in the best fettle to begin with.
Back to winding in by hand unless someone wants to donate a spring winder set?[emoji3]

But you printed a mainspring winder?! Do you have a photo.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wonder if I could scale that up to work with my aircraft clocks as the NOS alloy mainsprings I've got I can't wind in by hand and they are too big for all my watch spring winders and too small for my clock spring winders.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yes, "Sold out" is difficult to understand. There doesn't seem to be a lot going on. It's been nine months since any new video was published on the Watch Repair Channel. The Level 4 course on watchfix.com has been in progress for what feels like forever (several years!?). Maybe Mark's enterprises aren't doing well or perhaps already so profitable there's nothing much to motivate him for more material. Or, perhaps these days he's more into crochet. The real reason is probably something entirely different but it would be nice/interesting to know. I don't mean to sound gloomy or pessimistic, but I wouldn't be surprised to be met by an HTTP 404. Every day feels like a gift.
    • Steel has some funny properties, or at least counterintuitive. The modulus of elasticity is effectively (not exactly, but close enough) the same for steel that is annealed and hardened. What changes is the point of plastic deformation* . If the movement of your spring doesn't pass that, it should work fine. It looks a little thick, I would thin it a bit maybe from the main body out about halfway, maybe 10-20% thinner (not in thickness, along its form). But if it works it works!   *So- if you have two bars of the same steel, one annealed, one at 600 Vickers (general hardness watch arbors might be), clamp them to a table so the same length is hanging out, and put a weight on the ends, they will bend the same amount. But if you continue to add weight, then remove it, at a point the annealed bar won't return to its original straightness. That's the point of plastic deformation. But up to that point, as springs, they are the same. However- their wear characteristics will be very very different. And getting the hardened bar past its point of plastic deformation takes a lot more effort.
    • @JohnR725 now that you've mentioned it. This is actually the second aftermarket spring (same place and brand) I ordered as the first one broke. The eye on which the arbor pulls on, broke off on the first spring after the first wind, and also it was a bit to large for the arbor. Looked like on one the second picture in the 2nd group. The second one was exactly the same, I had to bend it a bit, to give it a more prominent curve to the end of the spring so that the arbor catches the eye.  Also I believe both were 5-10mm shorter. Not that I writing that, I feel a bit dumb, as the spring might actually been the problem all along, although its advertised as a substitute to the original...     
    • The CS70 is the only one they show as annealed.  A further search on ebay, I found CS75 and CS100 annealed carbon steel strips  e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314072784422
    • Aloha and thanks for catching all these small but important details, John.  I'm going to give it a shot. The good news is I have a parts movement here with a perfect complete balance.  I will place them side by side for visual reference when doing what you outlined.  It's been a while were I've had a hobby in which I joined a forum.  I forgot just how helpful everyone can be. Mahalo. Frank.
×
×
  • Create New...