Jump to content

Most Useless Watch Tool


jdrichard

Recommended Posts

I have a crystal lift like that, made by Vigor. It works, but seems a bit sketchy at how it grabs the edges of soft plastic with sharp metal. I'm sure that it puts scratches around the crystal even if you can't see them without magnification. Plus, it's always a pucker-factor 15 to get the crystal's diameter decreased enough to get it inserted. But since I don't have the proper Longines wrenches for monocoque cases, it's all I can use.

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a crystal lift like that, made by Vigor. It works, but seems a bit sketchy at how it grabs the edges of soft plastic with sharp metal. I'm sure that it puts scratches around the crystal even if you can't see them without magnification. Plus, it's always a pucker-factor 15 to get the crystal's diameter decreased enough to get it inserted. But since I don't have the proper Longines wrenches for monocoque cases, it's all I can use.
 

Just need a proper plastic crystal press.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, jdrichard said:


Just need a proper plastic crystal press.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

You mean a GS type press? I do have one, but for some reason I didn't think it would work on my monocoque Wittnauers, etc. My thinking is that the GS press that I have, you have to put the crystal facing down in the support. The case, generally without a back, has to go over the plunger facing downward in order drop over the crystal. With the one-piece case, the back is not removable, so the plunger cannot pass through a bezel or open back case. Am I wrong, or is this a different type than you are referring to?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use mine regularly, as vinn3 states on vintage watches.

Just used it the other day to fit a 14.4mm crystal onto a late 1950s ladies Certina.

That's the smallest crystal I've fitted and it was nearly at the limit of my tool as I just have the cheap Anchor brand one, but it has worked every time I have used it..

You also need the small base for holding the crystal for the tool to work though, this makes the claw grip the crystal just off the base of it so you can drop the crystal home whilst still compressed and then release the tension and it just expands into place.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've just used both the lift tool, and the crystal press, in the process of fixing a Timex. They are a little tricky to get right, and they don't work well in every case, and I did manage to drop the movement on the floor due to my ham-fisted efforts with the lift tool.

I wouldn't say it is  *THE* most useless tool, but perhaps one of the most tricky to use, and not appropriate for some crystals.

Popping the crystal out is often much easier with your thumbs, but obviously you can't do that with a front loader.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was going to nominate one of these... 

hammer.jpg&f=1

... but I believe there are a few people who use them to 're-allign' Timex watches.

Sacrilege to my eyes.

Using it to 're-alligning' an overpriced  Daniel Wellington, or maybe a dime store quartz possibly I could forgive, but not a Timex.  :P

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

just used my crystal lift on a friends roamer(question posted earlier!) and it was a doddle both off and on.mine is a Liberty made in india,a good price and quite solid.does the job well.also use a crystal press when needed.both handy to have.B

I find removing the crystal May be ok, however, installing it with those very touchy claws is way too difficult.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was going to nominate one of these... 
hammer.jpg%26f=1&key=b24d126953cea2e57cb43cdd67a9e6af46678fe4b0c8ddde7ceb61f3949788fa
... but I believe there are a few people who use them to 're-allign' Timex watches.
Sacrilege to my eyes.
Using it to 're-alligning' an overpriced  Daniel Wellington, or maybe a dime store quartz possibly I could forgive, but not a Timex.  [emoji14]

Is that a Left or Right Handed Hammer?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've just used both the lift tool, and the crystal press, in the process of fixing a Timex. They are a little tricky to get right, and they don't work well in every case, and I did manage to drop the movement on the floor due to my ham-fisted efforts with the lift tool.
I wouldn't say it is  *THE* most useless tool, but perhaps one of the most tricky to use, and not appropriate for some crystals.
Popping the crystal out is often much easier with your thumbs, but obviously you can't do that with a front loader.

I too use my thumbs to pop out the crystal and a front loader would need the claws??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, jdrichard said:


... and a front loader would need the claws??
 

I grabbed the crystal with the claws, then held the lift tool between my knees and gave the movement plate a playful tap with a plastic rod and the useless tool I mentioned above.

Not the most subtle method, but very reliable for sending the watch in to orbit, and you do need to do that at least once a week, or you 'aint trying hard enough. Second try worked like a charm, and the movement, crystal and movement plate parted with the case quite nicely.

Something makes me suspect there may be a better way of doing this. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I nominate the 3D printed mainspring winder that I printed and tried yesterday which successfully butchered a Seiko 7019A mainspring for me. :thumbsu:

At least that spring wasn't in the best fettle to begin with.

Back to winding in by hand unless someone wants to donate a spring winder set?:D

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I nominate the 3D printed mainspring winder that I printed and tried yesterday which successfully butchered a Seiko 7019A mainspring for me. :thumbsu:
At least that spring wasn't in the best fettle to begin with.
Back to winding in by hand unless someone wants to donate a spring winder set?[emoji3]

Spring winder sets are easy to find on eBay. Or just do it by hand.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I nominate the 3D printed mainspring winder that I printed and tried yesterday which successfully butchered a Seiko 7019A mainspring for me. :thumbsu:
At least that spring wasn't in the best fettle to begin with.
Back to winding in by hand unless someone wants to donate a spring winder set?[emoji3]

But you printed a mainspring winder?! Do you have a photo.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wonder if I could scale that up to work with my aircraft clocks as the NOS alloy mainsprings I've got I can't wind in by hand and they are too big for all my watch spring winders and too small for my clock spring winders.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
    • this is something I've never quite understood about the some of the Swiss companies. In 1957 Omega was using 9010 for the keyless parts with epilam. there's been a slow migration towards using heavier lubrication's but still typically oils and epilam to keep them in place. When it seems like 9504 works so much better.  
    • OK, welcome in the world of alarm clocks... I guess the 4th wheel is dished because it is from another movement. If it was not dishet, then it would not mesh with the pinion of the escape wheel, am I right? The marks of wear on the 4th wheel pinion doesn't corespond to the 3th wheel table position, at list this is what i see on the picts. Calculating the rate is easy - there is a formula - BR = T2 x T3 x T4 x T5 x 2 /(P3 x P4 x P5) where T2 - T5 are the counts of the teeth of the wheels tables, and P3 - P5 are the counts of the pinion leaves. Vibrating the balance is easy - grasp for the hairspring where it should stay in the regulator with tweasers, let the balance hang on the hairspring while the downside staff tip rests on glass surface. Then make the balance oscillate and use timer to measure the time for let say 50 oscillations, or count the oscillations for let say 30 seconds. You must do the free oscillations test to check the balance staff tips and the cone cup bearings for wear. This kind of staffs wear and need resharpening to restore the normal function of the balance.
    • Glue a nut to the barrel lid, insert a bolt, pull, disolve the glue.  Maybe someone will have a better answer. 
×
×
  • Create New...