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    • Am I missing something? I've never heard of the term "automatic" used in association with any watch that takes a battery... And to answer OPs question, I have ran my watches through the demagnetiser running without any apparent ill effect. But you might want to if you can to stay on the safe side
    • Hi If its precision you are looking for then its no contest, bite the bullet and dont let the wife know.
    • Hi  If using the super glue method buy the cheap stuff from the pound shop pound for five tubes its thin. Or using the domed end of a staking tool punch and closing the hole on to the bush then lightly flatten the protruding bush metal with a flat punch, 
    • Hi  First thing to do is read up on three train mechanisms before starting they employ some complex gear work for the strike and the chime not forgetting the auto correction for the chime. To remove the springs one has to let down the power on all the barrels before doing anything. If this is your first attempt at repairing a clock I should get hold of a simple two train strike only to practise on and gain knowledge before doing a three train clock. Cleaning can be done using any branded clock cleaner and a brush, wear rubber gloves , Priory polishes do a good cleaner and not too expensive, Windles clock oil is a good one  a good selection of screwdriver, pliers, an eyeglass or loupe for inspection Donald de carles book on clock repairing or brian loomes book  or laurie penman all available on the net as are the tools, you may need a spring removal tool to get the springs out of the barrels. So s you see it is not some. .thing to be taken lightly  there is a lot to go wrong.  One could write a whole chapters on the rights and wrongs and do's and dont 's on clock repairing.
    • Hi guys! I've been looking into upgrading some of my most used tools, and arguably, one of the most important tools I currently own.  I've been reluctant to upgrade my caseback opener and crystal press to the upgraded, Bergeon 5700-Z and Horotec 07.130, due to their costs. Currently, I'm using a chinese copy of the Bergeon 5700-Z, which has served me well, but the tolerances are not perfect. The bits that attach onto the bit holder do not sit parallel onto the casebacks I remove ( one sits slightly higher than the other ), which causes a large risk of slipping and scratching casebacks. In addition, the bit holder does not adjust evenly such that the bits don't move equidistantly from their respective sides, which makes it difficult to center the bits perfectly onto casebacks.  As for the crystal press, I'm also using a chinese copy of what resembles the Horotec 07.130, except the lower threads don't sit on the actual base of the tool but are slightly elevated onto an intermediate plate. This leaves a small gap between the actual bottom dye and the base of the press. I've noticed that when applying a lot of pressure onto the tool when setting crystals, the intermediate base where the bottom dye rests on bends slightly down due to the applied force. The crystals seem to be going in very evenly so this has not been an issue, however, I like how the Horotec 07.130 has their dyes sitting on the actual base of the tool so that the bottom and type dye will always be parallel upon applying force downwards.    This leaves me to ask, can anyone who owns the Bergeon 5700-Z and Horotec 07.130 provide their opinions about either tool? It is a rather large investment for someone who does not work on watches full time, but works on enough to consider it a part-time job.    * Just a side question regarding the type of dyes to purchase for the Horotec 07.130* I install both domed and flat crystals, but I'm unsure if the "Set of 12 Delrin Thread-on Dies for Fitting Very Domed Crystals" by horotec would be the best choice for my application.   Thank you everyone.    The tools that I use right now    The tools that I am considering to upgrade to           
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