Hi all, i have no experience repairing watches but I am a pretty hands on and mechanical guy. I am looking for some advice for my Seiko SNZG15, 7s26 movement. It's a pretty cheap watch so I have a feeling it might not be worth taking to a professional to repair. I will explain what happened and I hope that someone here can offer some advice.
I have worn the watch for three years straight. I was taking it off the other night and it slipped out of my hand and hit the floor face down. The Seiko emblem bent out from the face with the S still flush on the face and the o sticking out a bit, just enough to interfere with at least the hour hand. It's still ticking fine, but in my foolish curiosity I attempted to adjust the time. I don't remember which hand, but one of them came into contact with the emblem and got hung up. I was able to free it, but damage had already been done. Now I can't really adjust the time and the hour and minute hands are out of sink. When I turn the crown the hands don't move hardly at all, if any. I'm thinking that since it is still ticking and keeping time that the actual movement is okay, but maybe some gears related to adjusting the time are damaged. Any thoughts? Can you even get replacement parts for this movement? I have watched some of the videos on this movement and I think that if it were the gears under the calendar and date wheels I might be able to replace them and just remove the emblem.
Well, this is my first effort of a watch repair. I have been fascinated with watches, clocks and all kinds of mechanical things since a young age. I decided at this time that working on watches would be a great hobby/interest to take up in my later years. I have already spent some time learning to refurbish and repair fishing reels in the last few years. So here is my first repair attempt.
Interest in tinkering watches started when I dropped my Seiko SKX009KD diver to the tile floor in the bathroom. Was not too good an idea to put a watch on there with a towel thrown over it, pulled the towel and down comes the watch, face down on the tile floor. Needless to say, I picked it up and took a look, nothing seen. Then I shake it and hear a rattle. Not too good!
So I did some research on the 7S26C movements. Read a lot of information and watched a lot of videos. Thanks to all that makes this information available. So I purchased a cheap watch tool kit from Amazon. I had other watches that needed batteries and some strap work anyway. I knew the kit would not be 'pro' grade, but it was a nice kit with all the basic tools needed.
Back to the rattle, I figured the Oscillating Weight (OW) had become separated from the bearing. So I used the case back wrench in the kit and opened the back, and sure enough that was the problem. I looked on-line for a replacement OW but could not find any except one on Ebay for $35! So I decided, what the heck, I'll try to repair this one. So, here is what I did being a little mechanically inclined but never at this small a scale, I performed the following:
1) remove case back.
2) examine the OW, it was dislodged/loose from the bearing.
3) remove center OW bearing from center post.
4) place OW on a small anvil, then use a small pin punch from the kit as to carefully work the metal around the OW's hole as to make the bearing hole smaller.
6) After enough working with the punch, I took a smooth round stone and gently kept working the ID of the OW hole until it just would friction fit to the surface of the OW bearing.
7) carefully press fit the bearing into the OW, I knew too much pressure would ruin the small bearing races and ball bearings.
8) finalized fitting of the bearing to the OW by applying a very small amount of red Locktite thread locker using the end of a pin as an 'oiler'.
9) I then let the OW set for a day to cure the Locktite
10) install OW per alignment instructions in the 7S26C technical guide. At this time I also wound the mainspring up 8 turns to check the power, it ran for about 40 hours.
11) did not have any watch oil, so I used a very small amount of some 10W synthetic engine oil using a small pin as the oiler to lubricate the OW bearing ONLY.
It appears to be a successful repair for now, watch been running great and keeping good time for about 2 months. I'm sure something else might have gotten damaged during the fall, especially the balance assembly, but then again the watch is working fine for now. I might use this particular watch to dive deeper into the 7S26 movement at a later time. Kind of happy for now. Got 2 other watches running with new batteries, fitted some straps and having fun with my new hobby. Look forward to learning some more. Now to find a 'bag o watches at a flea market and get busy. I know I'm going to need more and quality tools down the road, that's OK with me.
Hi Fellow People,
Im reaching out as I’m currently learning all I can about watchmaking, and am working through the BHI distance learning technicians course, with my exam booked for May.
I will need to service a quartz watch as part of my practical exam, and am learning about watch lubrication.
A few months ago I found a great article that covered the technique for dipping and collecting the right amount of oil on the oiler, such as the speed and angle of the dip, however, I now can’t find it anywhere, no matter how much I search the internet
Does anyone have or can point me in the right direction of instructions specifically on oil collection on the oiler? As you will know there is lots on the actual oiling process but not the oil collection process.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hello. I am considering buying a bottle of fixodrop and I found that there are many options regarding the quantity.
Since I am hobbyist watchmaker, I don't service a watch very often.(Couple of them in a month)
In this case, would it be okay to purchase the smallest amount of fixodrop(1ml)?
One more thing. Is there anything else I should get to apply the fixodrop to my pallet fork?
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Hi, I'm new to the watch hobby and after a couple absolute disasters with cheap movements, trembling sausage fingers, microscopic screws & springs vanishing into thin air and the feral cry of agonising frustration when nothing goes back together, I decided it's time to get some help (Or therapy). I'm really enthusiastic to learn BUT I'm a bit dopey when it comes to understanding certain things (Well, most things really). Simply put: I'm thick lol. My interest in, or attention to this hobby was propogated when a kiosk watch service wanted £140 to change a battery. £140...... FOR A BATTERY. I couldn't believe it. He murmured something about having to send the watch away because it needed to be pressure tested, or something to that effect, but I stopped listening after he quoted the price and decided to change it myself. The rest - as they say - is history. So, that's my testimony lol. I hope to learn from you guys and I sincerely appreciate the opportunity. Many thanks. Jordan.
It would be nice to see a picture looking straight down with no power in other words the balance wheel stopped. Then if you look sideways is the balance bridge parallel to the main plate? That it would be nice if you would actually just take the entire balance and bridge out flip it over and give us a picture of what the pivot looks like. While it should be impossible to break your pivots off it be nice to know or we could see that there actually they are and they look nice and shiny. If the jewels are bad often times they will nick the balance and you'll see the pivot will look rough. Or if some unknown reason the rust got in the watch then they will look dark in color or just with time sometimes they'll look dark the ends the pivots will look bad. Because right now your dial up and down is not the same and they should be.
Good advice so here's what I did: removed the minute recorder jumper spring - movement stopped. Removed minute recording wheel - movement stopped, disengaged sliding gear - movement stopped, Tonight I removed chrono wheel so I will see tomorrow if it stopped again. Though I doubt it will because as long as chrono function was not in use, movement never stopped. Never applied any lubricant to chrono or minute pivots or chrono tension spring. Minute recording wheel and sliding gear both would spin freely with puff of air prior to removal. Do notice amplitude of 188 at full wind during chrono engagement. Still stumped. Thanks so much for your help though.