Jump to content

Books about cuckoo clock movements


GregC

Recommended Posts

Have a look at dperry428 on you tube. He repairs clocks especially cuckoo clocks. He has his own way which is not the way you would start out but he is knowledgeable and informative. 

Cuckoo clocks are a little complicated in their workings so start out with a time only movement something like a mantle clock of an old wall clock. It’s fascinating pulling them apart, cleaning them up and getting them working again.

with your wood skills it’ll not be long before you’re making clock cases to rehouse them 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As Squiiffy said look around you tube lots of videos about clock repiar.

I feel that at the moment you should look at ebay and buy a cheap working cuckoo, take off the carving and build your fret work around the body, that way you get a feel for what is required. Have a look how the movement works, what parts you need and cost them, plus labour. Then seach the web to see what other shops are selling for and that will give you an idea, although yours will be fret work and the others will be carved which gives you an edge. 

Then after all that you can make the step into repairing movements as you need a few tools for that and it will take time to get good at it.

Don't buy battery operated cuckoo movements as there is no way you can compeat with the rubbish from China.

Here is a china battery made cuckoo. 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Europea-Cuckoo-Clock-House-Wall-Antique-Clock-Modern-Art-Vintage-Wood-Home-Decor/183696394018?hash=item2ac5288722:g:3TUAAOSwVRBcGLax

Here is a German made brass movement cuckoo.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/German-Cuckoo-Clock-Black-Forest-8-Day-Mechanical-1885-Replication-8TMT540-9/162021568278?hash=item25b93cef16:g:jAQAAOSwT5tWMLTT

Here is where I work, therefore I know a bit about cuckoo clocks.

https://clocks.com.au/

Hope this helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry I should have read your post in the 'making a leather clock' before I wrote the above, just do this part if it is all a bit to stressful.

" I feel that at the moment you should look at ebay and buy a cheap working cuckoo, take off the carving and build your fret work around the body, that way you get a feel for what is required. Then after all that you can make the step into repairing movements as you need a few tools for that and it will take time to get good at it, however there are plenty of people on here to help.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies guys, appreciated. I need to learn from the ground up as I only know how to cut wood and what I learnt from Mark's courses. I was watching a vid on youtube recommended by Squiffything and I guess cuckoo clocks look kind of hard for me at this stage so I guess ordinary clocks for now. Also, what specialty tools would I need? I have most of the basic tools handymen have like pliers, adjustable wrench etc. Thanks for any and all replies

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, GregC said:

Also, what specialty tools would I need? I have most of the basic tools handymen have like pliers, adjustable wrench etc.

This is a question that seems to come up a lot.

OH, as a Mod, maybe you could make a PDF or Word.doc with a basic list of what is required when starting out and store it somewhere on the site that can be downloaded by people new to clock repair?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



Thanks for the replies guys, appreciated. I need to learn from the ground up as I only know how to cut wood and what I learnt from Mark's courses. I was watching a vid on youtube recommended by Squiffything and I guess cuckoo clocks look kind of hard for me at this stage so I guess ordinary clocks for now. Also, what specialty tools would I need? I have most of the basic tools handymen have like pliers, adjustable wrench etc. Thanks for any and all replies


Personal I've found books by Donald De Carle to be good reference material.


For clocks I have a copy of Practical Clock Repairing which I've found useful. Some may may not agree as it is a little dated but it covers a lot, including tools required, and is readily available both new and second hand for not too many beer vouchers.

Hope you find this useful.

NAD




Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Two pins or screwdrivers angled out slightly, pressing through from the barrel centre from the opposite side so they contact just clear of the hole in the lid? eg. Strap pin driver needles or similar.
    • That's a good idea - shrinking down the nut and wrench size from the old casebook trick!
    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
×
×
  • Create New...