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    • For years I have wondered how Imperial system diehards deal with the fact that lug gaps,as well case sizes, are iuniversally indicated in meaningless Metric units. Now I know - they don't ;-)
    • What about a couple of pictures to help others understand what is clear to you - the only one being able to see the issue?
    • Good that these are cheap for you, because it is not so here. Since a mechanical men's Omega is always a minimum of a couple hundreds Euro no matter what model and conditions, and parts may be difficult and expensive to find and import,  I trongly recommend that you start learning on sothing really  cheap, like some Russian, Japanese or even Swiss that you can find locally for 15 Euro each and are almost working. I know well that as a beginner you are eager to start working  on the same pieces that yuo also like to collect and wear, but the chances that you will get everything right at the first attempt are very low.
    • As always, thank you very much for your reply watchweasol. I'll do as you have recommended and share my findings. ON the outset though, I'm thinking if there was an issue with the winding of the spring / power source, would that allow for the movement in the escape wheel i.e. translation of power?
    • Hi everyone, I'm a newbie from Turkey, watch enthusiast I hate automatic watches, I believe it's 99% a useless gimmick, an unneccessary complication, I think it only makes sense with screw down crowns, I'd rather have a slimmer/simpler watch and enjoy winding it directly - recently re-sparked my interest in watches by buying a Tisell Miyota Pilot, first think I did was to remove the winding weight - converted the watch from a noisy/flimsy thing to a rigid/joy to wear device Recently started buying defunctional vintage watches to learn basic servicing to be able to maintain my watches Originally I was going to practice on simpler hand winding movement, like the Omega 620, which is cheap and easy to find, but because of this coronovirus stuff, couldn't yet import them Today I received and opened up an Omega 552, from a 166.022 - I love the case, so I decided to endure the auto movement Anyway, the crystal was cracked, maybe pre-broken, as I used a metal latch tool. I cracked the crystal, not the front part, but just part of the edge, should've read this forum first and applied the syringe air pushing method, since I believe it was pre-broken, I'll attempt to glue it and use the crystal anyway - maybe the previous opener of the watch just re-inserted the crystal that way Onto the good stuff, my approach to watch servicing will be disassembly, ultrasonic cleaning, re-assembly with minimal lubrication - so I started by removing the winding mechanism, and the tiniest of screws fell onto my hand - and with the auto winding mechanism removed, and this small screw outside the movement, the movement started working again! (The damage to the dial was pre-done, I'm a newbie hobbyist, whoever tried to yank that dial out of the movement/case, was probably sub-human :) My question(s):  1) Is this small screw from this movement / could it be the reason the movement wasn't running, maybe it was yanked in somewhere? 2) Do you guys think I can / should just re-assemble the watch without the auto winding mechanism? I don't enjoy it, and since the watch started ticking without it, I thought I could just re-assemble it and give it a go, without risking things with my amateur involvement (this is the cleanest vintage watch movement I've ever seen, no dust/buildup inside etc.) Worst case scenario, I was going to buy a replacement movement, but hopefully not needed
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