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    • By wilding
      Hello there watch fix fans. Here's (I hope) an interesting one for you.
      I have this beautiful small ladies 'Fero Feldmann' Swiss-made watch - it came in a bag of "used and to be repaired" watches.
      From what I can see, the mechanism seems in very good working order. Just a slight shake and it goes and goes. There is no strap, but that is not the issue here.
      The problem is the stem and/or crown. As you can see, there is definitely no crown. But I am wondering about the stem.
      The watch does have its case and edoes have, as you can see, a hole where the stem and/or crown will/should fit in.
      There is something which appears to be some kind of part-stem at the 3 o'clock position.
      Using tweezers I can pull it out and push it back in quite freely. A very small screw on top holds this "stem" in place. I think you can see, in ths second photo, how this "stem" attaches to the rest of the movement.
      Clearly I need to attach a crown. BUT what about a stem? A stem extension? Or one of those crowns which has an extended stem-like attachment which should fix onto this current "stem" in this watch?
      Yes, the watch face is somewhat scratched, and the minute hand is a little bent at the top. You may say it is not worth my while trying to get this fixed. But I just SO MUCH like this little watch and would LOVE to give it life again! It clearly IS still "alive" - though I'm not sure if it is a mechanical wind-up or an automatic. The latter of these seems to be the case - as I said earlier, a little shake and the mechanism goes and goes. PErhaps with a little oil (and lots of encouragement) it can be made good.
      So my main question - what kind of stem/crown to attach and how to do it?
       


    • By examiner
      How to remove this winding stem? I don't know what I should push to remove this winding stem.

    • By Heman
      Hello all,
      I have a watch I would like to fix my self. It's made by TAWATEC, who is no longer in business. It's very similar to a Luminox and used TGS for lume. I will provide information to the best of my ability. 

      Here is a link to some information about it. Here are a few pictures of the watch. 

       


       
      I have had the watch since May of 2011. I had the battery replaced in Feb 2015 by a local shop. Less than a year later, I noticed that after taking a shower there was condensation under the crystal. I pulled the crown and left it sit to air out. After about a week I pushed the crown back in and the watch no longer worked. I wondered what caused it to leak. I then remembered I had to change the date on the watch a few days before condensation had got inside the watch. When I was trying to set the date I noticed that it was difficult to pull the crown out and it was more difficult to turn than usual. My guess was that the gasket/O-ring that is on the stem/crown was messed up and had ripped and water had entered that way. I left the watch sit for a year and used another watch as my daily driver. I'm hoping to get this one up and running again. So I recently decided to see if I could fix the watch myself. 
       
      Here is what I have done and have figured out so far...
      I was able to remove the case back by removing the 4 Phillips screws. Visually inspecting the O-ring that seals the case back, everything looks good. The movement is a Ronda 515. The plastic ring that holds the movement inside the case says Ronda 515 # 6. I was able to remove the crown and stem. Looking towards the inside of the crown there was remnants of the O-ring. After clearing the remnants and putting the crown back in, the crown moves freely. I also found remnants if rubber on the front of the dial. After inspecting the battery, it looks to have leaked its electrolyte What I would like to do first is replace the O-Ring that's on the crown and put a new battery in it. If I then determine that the movement is damaged, I can replace it later. 
      What do I need to do to figure out what size of O-ring I need for the crown? I can take pictures of the crown/stem if needed. I also have analog calipers to use that are in inches.
      Thanks for your time!
       
       
    • By lucasantarella
      Hi All,
      I recently replaced the movement for my Tissot PR50, which was a standard ETA F06.111. I now need to replace the crown as the old stem was broken into the crown and could not be re-used.
      Could someone point me in the right direction in finding a proper replacement crown? I don't know the size or how/where to measure to find a proper crown.
      Thank you!
    • By Wesley881
      Hi all,
      My goodness it's been a while since I've posted and boy have I missed this forum! Feels good to catch up on a few new tales of triumph, trials and tribulations.
      I have a Waltham model 1910, 37 size chronometer that I recently had some help getting a new staff for. Now it's time to find a crown. Problem is, the common car clock case for this movement has a 6.80mm neck, but the weighted case for the ship chronometer has a 7.20mm neck. Any ideas of sourcing something like this short of making one? I'm browsing Cousins at the moment...
      Cheers
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    • Oh that's interesting, that totally gives me something to research which is exactly what I was after. I'll post in here if I make any discoveries.
    • Crap sorry, I was thinking the minute recorder was not resetting to "12". May still be a simple matter of resetting the hand, but then the minute jump will be off, which means moving the finger on the chrono runner. What I actually suspect is that the hammer is out of adjustment, and is making full contact with the minute counter but not the chrono runner, and you want the reverse of that. Depending on the version you have it may have an adjustable hammer, or may require filing.
    • The dial looks good for it's age.  From my experience there is really much that can be done to improve the look of a vintage dial. Often what appears to be dirt is instead oxidation and cannot be removed without changing the appearance of the dial. I would stick to using Rodico and Q-Tips dipped in distilled water. If you do anything, be very careful and work very slow.  Keep in mind the printing on the dial is often placed on top of the lacquer and it's the first to go when "cleaning" is attempted.
    • Thanks. That was going to be my first step. I asked because I was curious if the "resets wrong but advances right" was indicative of something specific that I haven't come across in discussions yet. Worst case scenario, I line up the second hand and don't think about it much when the minute recorder advances.
    • I think you can just remove the hand and set it at zero when in reset position. If that doesn't do it there's a laundry list of potential issues, on which books have been written. Try that and if you still have a problem it can be addressed.
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