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    • By rduckwor
      Early 60's Elgin 10K Shockmaster. I suppose one of their attempts at water proofing a watch (see the crystal and gasket in the second picture). The question is how to get the crown off (Its wobbly when pulled out to the set position and I am certain it contains a gasket) so I can remove the movement? Dis-assemble the keyless works in place so I can grab the stem and unscrew the crown?? Thanks.


    • By wilding
      Hello there watch fix fans. Here's (I hope) an interesting one for you.
      I have this beautiful small ladies 'Fero Feldmann' Swiss-made watch - it came in a bag of "used and to be repaired" watches.
      From what I can see, the mechanism seems in very good working order. Just a slight shake and it goes and goes. There is no strap, but that is not the issue here.
      The problem is the stem and/or crown. As you can see, there is definitely no crown. But I am wondering about the stem.
      The watch does have its case and edoes have, as you can see, a hole where the stem and/or crown will/should fit in.
      There is something which appears to be some kind of part-stem at the 3 o'clock position.
      Using tweezers I can pull it out and push it back in quite freely. A very small screw on top holds this "stem" in place. I think you can see, in ths second photo, how this "stem" attaches to the rest of the movement.
      Clearly I need to attach a crown. BUT what about a stem? A stem extension? Or one of those crowns which has an extended stem-like attachment which should fix onto this current "stem" in this watch?
      Yes, the watch face is somewhat scratched, and the minute hand is a little bent at the top. You may say it is not worth my while trying to get this fixed. But I just SO MUCH like this little watch and would LOVE to give it life again! It clearly IS still "alive" - though I'm not sure if it is a mechanical wind-up or an automatic. The latter of these seems to be the case - as I said earlier, a little shake and the mechanism goes and goes. PErhaps with a little oil (and lots of encouragement) it can be made good.
      So my main question - what kind of stem/crown to attach and how to do it?
       


    • By examiner
      How to remove this winding stem? I don't know what I should push to remove this winding stem.

    • By Heman
      Hello all,
      I have a watch I would like to fix my self. It's made by TAWATEC, who is no longer in business. It's very similar to a Luminox and used TGS for lume. I will provide information to the best of my ability. 

      Here is a link to some information about it. Here are a few pictures of the watch. 

       


       
      I have had the watch since May of 2011. I had the battery replaced in Feb 2015 by a local shop. Less than a year later, I noticed that after taking a shower there was condensation under the crystal. I pulled the crown and left it sit to air out. After about a week I pushed the crown back in and the watch no longer worked. I wondered what caused it to leak. I then remembered I had to change the date on the watch a few days before condensation had got inside the watch. When I was trying to set the date I noticed that it was difficult to pull the crown out and it was more difficult to turn than usual. My guess was that the gasket/O-ring that is on the stem/crown was messed up and had ripped and water had entered that way. I left the watch sit for a year and used another watch as my daily driver. I'm hoping to get this one up and running again. So I recently decided to see if I could fix the watch myself. 
       
      Here is what I have done and have figured out so far...
      I was able to remove the case back by removing the 4 Phillips screws. Visually inspecting the O-ring that seals the case back, everything looks good. The movement is a Ronda 515. The plastic ring that holds the movement inside the case says Ronda 515 # 6. I was able to remove the crown and stem. Looking towards the inside of the crown there was remnants of the O-ring. After clearing the remnants and putting the crown back in, the crown moves freely. I also found remnants if rubber on the front of the dial. After inspecting the battery, it looks to have leaked its electrolyte What I would like to do first is replace the O-Ring that's on the crown and put a new battery in it. If I then determine that the movement is damaged, I can replace it later. 
      What do I need to do to figure out what size of O-ring I need for the crown? I can take pictures of the crown/stem if needed. I also have analog calipers to use that are in inches.
      Thanks for your time!
       
       
    • By lucasantarella
      Hi All,
      I recently replaced the movement for my Tissot PR50, which was a standard ETA F06.111. I now need to replace the crown as the old stem was broken into the crown and could not be re-used.
      Could someone point me in the right direction in finding a proper replacement crown? I don't know the size or how/where to measure to find a proper crown.
      Thank you!
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    • So, I'm gonna try and post a couple of photos shortly, both Seiko of course for reasons stated earlier.   The blue one is apparently called the "ashtray" bezel. It winds, works, keeps good time, over the last 8 hours anyway, the only snag being the day pusher function does not operate every time.  The silver one is a Seiko deluxe which does not wind or work, in fact it makes a disheartening rattly noise when shaken, like something has come adrift inside.  They were purchased as items for me to take apart and study, then hopefully reassemble, having cleaned and lubed.  The ashtray arrived from India today, the deluxe arrived from Japan today, both were ordered last midweek. How easy these days to begin a new hobby, what with international freight, the Internet, and training vids on you tube. I may not even renew my porn subscription, this hobby could save me money!!!   Next purchase will be a set of intro level tools, then to business. 
    • One option for white is to use a toner reactive foil. This is what I used with success: https://www.circuitspecialists.com/pcb-trf-white.html I didn't use decal paper for printing but used toner transfer paper. My presumption this would still work with the film-less decal paper. Getting the toner reactive foil to work is tricky though. It requires both heat and pressure. Too much heat and pressure and entire dial turns white. Too little and it would only partially stick. It also requires some brushing to remove any bits of foil left over. It took a lot of time, practice an patience for it to work for me but it is certainly possible. I wouldn't recommend this on a dial you only have one-shot with, try with a blank you can practice with.
    • Ah yes, a coupla good ideas there!  I'll go find a welder and cadge a rod, that's a cheap option. Thank you fellas. 
    • Thanks, nickelsilver!  You mean, the first hairspring, the one still mounted is beyond repair? I haven’t touched it. If it is what you meant, it’s disappointing.  Thanks for the clarification on the vintage tools!
    • Can we have a look at the back. I'm sure the movement comes out from the back. That is not a waterproof case. 
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