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Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber P478 Help


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1 hour ago, nickelsilver said:

I've noticed older Lecoultres often have quite heavy lock on the escapement, and even with a new mainspring some adjustment is needed to get the amplitude up to a reasonable number.

I think you are quite right, it is very tricky indeed.

I just hope that after I will install a new mainspring and I will adjust the beat the number will increase a little bit more. If I will get it around 230 -250 I will be happy considering the fact that it is an old movement.

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I corrected the beat error from 2.2-2.7 to a 0.5-0.7

I know is not perfect; anyway I consider it pretty close to be accepted like that.

The problem is now, after I correct the beat error the amplitude when down dramatically from 220 to 155-165. Perhaps after I will install the new mainspring will rise again.

It is pretty tricky to adjust all that.

I will keep you posted.

 

DC0D3B60-25FA-44A2-8380-24A3CF75081A.jpeg

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Timing machines are interesting devices? You have to be very careful when interpreting the results that the results are actually what's really going on with the watch? If you look at your waveform from the beginning you'll notice that you do not have straight parallel lines there very irregular. This tells us your watch is having a very bad day. The timing machine does not have artificial intelligence so it doesn't look at the graphical display it just displays whatever it gets. Then it takes the numbers and gives you numbers but if the graphical display does not have the correct display like reasonably smooth parallel lines then numerically what you're seeing will not be correct. A example of this notice your watches keeping zero seconds fast or slow? But look at the graphical display at the time of zero seconds does that really look like zero seconds? The other thing when using the timing machine having a more than one position is very helpful. So wristwatch crown down position would be good so we can compare crown down with whichever dial position your timing in.

So when you put the watch in beat how did you do that and did you visually verify that it is indeed in beat?  Then other than the beat changing from cleaning how exactly did you clean the watch and the lubricants used?

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5 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

Timing machines are interesting devices? You have to be very careful when interpreting the results that the results are actually what's really going on with the watch? If you look at your waveform from the beginning you'll notice that you do not have straight parallel lines there very irregular. This tells us your watch is having a very bad day. The timing machine does not have artificial intelligence so it doesn't look at the graphical display it just displays whatever it gets. Then it takes the numbers and gives you numbers but if the graphical display does not have the correct display like reasonably smooth parallel lines then numerically what you're seeing will not be correct. A example of this notice your watches keeping zero seconds fast or slow? But look at the graphical display at the time of zero seconds does that really look like zero seconds? The other thing when using the timing machine having a more than one position is very helpful. So wristwatch crown down position would be good so we can compare crown down with whichever dial position your timing in.

So when you put the watch in beat how did you do that and did you visually verify that it is indeed in beat?  Then other than the beat changing from cleaning how exactly did you clean the watch and the lubricants used?

As I’m pretty sure you know they are so many different ways to put a watch in beat.I will post two links showing the two methods that I use to correct the error beat in this particular movement. I hope I’m not crossing  any forum’s rules if I post the links to the videos here.

I used both methods in my case because the hair spring was twisted a bit. To answer to one of your direct question if I “visually verify if the watch is in beat”; yes I did verified that visually.

The beat error did not actually change because I cleaned and oiled the movement ; the error beat had to be corrected by using the two methods from above.

 

Edited by Doreen
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4 hours ago, watchweasol said:

Hi Had a look round and it is indeed 45 lift angle.   Google the watch guy and lift angles there is a list for future reference.

 I actually found online several lift angles lists very useful. Thank you 

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12 minutes ago, Doreen said:

As I’m pretty sure you know they are so many different ways to put a watch in beat.I will post two links showing the two methods that I use to correct the error beat in this particular movement. I hope I’m not crossing  any forum’s rules if I post the links to the videos here.

I used both methods in my case because the hair spring was twisted a bit. To answer to one of your direct question if I “visually verify if the watch is in beat”; yes I did verified that visually.

The beat error did not actually change because I cleaned and oiled the movement ; the error beat had to be corrected by using the two methods from above.

 

I have to admit it is a intense back and forth work and a lots of adjustments and twisting. 

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I finished to replace the main spring and I’m pretty happy with the results considering the fact that is an old movement. I know it is far away from being perfect and It could probably get a little bit of better results with the amplitude, beat error, etc. if I will adjust more the hairspring.

As I mentioned before the hair spring was twisted/distorted and it was not parallel with the balance wheel cock. That affected tremendously the good working condition of the watch(timing, beat error, amplitude).

I did a lots of adjustments to the hair spring and I set the watch properly in beat by aligning the roller jewel properly between the two banking pins.

 I diced to leave the watch the way it is at least for now.

I will attach a few images with different watch positions on the timegrapher.

Thank you all for your comments, advise and help.

B99D9D20-A79A-4D01-93FA-A26E4DCA4F81.jpeg

DAF43112-426F-4F75-9309-EDE046F7DEC6.jpeg

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