Unfortunately I didn't have a C07.121 at home right now but I might have become a bit confused, but doesn´t the C07 have the day at the top like an ETA 2834-2? Just to show the differences beween the movements I post a couple of pictures, as you can see they all are based on the 2824-2 but the 2834-2 has a plastic ring around it to make it an 0.5 ligne wider.
The 07 is an 2824-2 with some synthetic light weight parts and a low beat (21600) balance swing, day ring used mainly by Tissot, Certina and Hamilton. The changes in beatrate and escapement was made to increase time in the power reserve.
I've got the Flashforge Dreamer 3D printer.
I've not really made much with it for watchmaking, myself, but have used it for many other things including making parts for my 1970s electro-mechanical pinball machine that were not obtainable any other way.
A very important thing to think about when buying a printer is the size of the print bed as this dictates the biggest thing you can make, usually cheaper machines have smaller print beds that will limit the size of things you can make.
Try and buy a printer that is fully enclosed as it eliminates the problems of cold drafts cooling the print too much between layers that can lead to print failure.
You want a printer that can print from an SD card not just from your computer. That way you don't need to leave you computer on when you are doing an 8 or 12 hour print.
Choose a printer that parts are readily available for and that has a big user following, as this will give you more help with finding the best settings.
Look at what software comes with the printer and think about what other software you might use.
I design most of my parts on the free software sketchup, but purchased simplify3D for doing my slicing as it produces better results than the software that came with my printer.
Printers are somewhat noisy and do give off plastic fumes so best if you don't need to leave it running in a small enclosed room.
That should give you a little to think about.