Jump to content

Recommended Posts

On 5/7/2019 at 2:36 PM, oldhippy said:

Why is it so expensive? I have never used it. I didn’t see the need to have it.  

Couple of members reported good results used on reversers. What do you recommend instead?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, vinn3 said:

why is anything "over priced" ?  greed

Only in today's corporate speak, it's referred to as maximizing a return on investment. I prefer to keep it simple. It's just plain greed and pretty ugly at that!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think it's priced the way it is because it's scientific glass, with the basket mod, with a small market. If you don't drop it you'll use it 2-3 times/day for 20 years, so not so expensive. As for Fixodrop itself, again, small market, high tech chemical, price goes up. Same with Moebius oil, it seems expensive till you realize how much work one can do with a given quantity.

I find synthetic motor oils expensive given the size of the market. But they are better so I'll buy them.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10% Economies of scale, 10% high quality control, 80% Fancy Swiss brand with huge consumer loyalty taking the mickey with their prices.

I'm sure if the oils were the same quality and half the price there are people who wouldn't buy it if because it doesn't seem expensive enough.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, TexasDon said:

Only in today's corporate speak, it's referred to as maximizing a return on investment. I prefer to keep it simple. It's just plain greed and pretty ugly at that!

   right you are Tex.  vin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/7/2019 at 12:21 PM, clockboy said:

I have been dealing with a PM re-using Fixodrop (Epiline)and I was also going to recommend purchasing the dedicated bottle until........... "Cousins" the price quoted £134.95  absolute madness.

When you first recommended it, amazon showed 50cc bottle for €50 but unavilable. 

I think we all be happy with 10cc bottles for €19.99 .I don,t see why such a high volume is offered to the customer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
1 minute ago, m1ks said:

I've never used it, (I wouldn't be able as the price makes my eyes water so I wouldn't be able to see where I placed it).

But I'd imagine there's only placing with an oiler or dipping?

Thank you.

I managed to obtain a bottle rather cheaply so am curious as to the best way to apply, my thinking was to use an oiler but really not sure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, TheFixer said:

I managed to obtain a bottle rather cheaply so am curious as to the best way to apply, my thinking was to use an oiler but really not sure.

Out of curiosity which brand and type did you get? The reason for the question is if you have the new environmentally friendly version where it's applied is different then how it was done in the past. The link below talks about the hazards of the past solutions.  .

The  purpose of this solution is to keep oil from spreading. As the link below talks about like all horological lubrication discussions where it's applied how it's applied can vary by quite a bit. For instance Omega in the 50s did not recommend applying it to the pallet fork at all. Versus today Universally everyone applies it to the pallet stones but nothing else on the pallet fork. With the newer environmentally friendly version it comes in really big bottles like 1L 5L  according to the most recent Omega document it should be in the last rinse of your cleaning machine and almost everything is covered with this versus the past where it was only applied to a couple of parts.

http://watchmakingblog.com/2011/07/29/one-hazard-of-epilame/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

Out of curiosity which brand and type did you get? The reason for the question is if you have the new environmentally friendly version where it's applied is different then how it was done in the past. The link below talks about the hazards of the past solutions.  .

The  purpose of this solution is to keep oil from spreading. As the link below talks about like all horological lubrication discussions where it's applied how it's applied can vary by quite a bit. For instance Omega in the 50s did not recommend applying it to the pallet fork at all. Versus today Universally everyone applies it to the pallet stones but nothing else on the pallet fork. With the newer environmentally friendly version it comes in really big bottles like 1L 5L  according to the most recent Omega document it should be in the last rinse of your cleaning machine and almost everything is covered with this versus the past where it was only applied to a couple of parts.

http://watchmakingblog.com/2011/07/29/one-hazard-of-epilame/

Hi,

Thanks for the information, most interesting and useful information.

I purchased through a Watchmaker moebius 8981.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

What would be a good method for applying Fixodrop without using a special epilame bottle?

Servicing my first ETA cal. 2824-2 I’m going to follow ETA’s tech sheet the best I can. Probably not necessary but that’s what I’ve made up my mind to do. This means I will have to treat certain parts with Fixodrop (8981, Fixodrop ES/BS-10).

No big deal, right? Wrong! Big deal! The Fixodrop 100 ml is £107 (incl. tax) and the epilame bottle is £162 (incl. tax). In total with shipping (to Sweden) that comes to £278 (€312/$352). These prices are from CousinsUK.com and those prices are competitive, trust me! So, for my money, I get a solution and a glass bottle, although a bit special. There are some less expensive epilame bottles, but the prices for these bottles are still "criminal".

Am I going to place an order? NO! The Fixodrop can be bought on eBay for approximately three times as much as offered by CousinsUK.com, but it can be bought in smaller quantities. So, that’s what I’ve done. I’ve ordered 10 ml (still very painful, $54 with shipping :pulling-hair-out:)

So, what would be a good method for applying the Fixodrop to the parts without using a special epilame bottle? As I understand it, Fixodrop is very volatile so I guess that can pose a challenge!?
 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use a little bottle like the pic, 30ml, got it at the drugstore. I fill it about 1/3 of the way. Escape wheel get plunged in with tweezers, cap jewels the same, for the pallets I dip closed #5 tweezers in which suck up a little, and deposit a bit on the stones.

My colleague uses a 10ml plastic lab bottle with a really fine spout, and squirts some on a fine artist's paintbrush (like really tiny) and applies where he wants.

I know they say to soak for a while but that's tricky to do keeping contact with just the pallet stones, and the quick dip really works fine.2413c0c2a0f66b0c6fab9a0f32edbce2.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, Nucejoe said:

Hi nickelsilver, How about reversers ( winder module),  plunge in? 

Thanks in advance.

 

I plunge whatever I want to treat, except for the pallet fork, since it's been demonstrated that it's detrimental to epilame the fork slot and pivots.

Edited by nickelsilver
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

Hi nickelsilver, How about reversers ( winder module),  plunge in? 

Thanks in advance.

 

This is what ETA has to say about the reversers in the tech sheet:

"Do not wash. If the part is very dirty or rusty,
it should be exchanged for an original part
which is lubricated and delivered by
ETA SA."

Now, I saw Mark Lovick soak them in Lubeta V105, and that's what I'm going to do as well. Don't think you're supposed to treat them with Fixodrop.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is what ETA has to say about the reversers in the tech sheet:
"Do not wash. If the part is very dirty or rusty,
it should be exchanged for an original part
which is lubricated and delivered by
ETA SA."

Now, I
, and that's what I'm going to do as well. Don't think you're supposed to treat them with Fixodrop.
That's right- except for Rolex where it's mandatory (they won't work right without it).
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I too bought a small 10ml bottle some time ago.  I do not use epilame a lot so like others I needed to conserve as best as possible.  I eventually came to using an old package case from a balance complete purchase, a small round item with lid.  This is big enough for the few items I have had to do.  I fill it from the bottle, immerse the item for 5 mins, then allow the item to dry under a warm light bulb.  The remaining epilame is then poured back in the bottle for next time.  It says its very volatile but not so that it just vanishes as soon as you use it!  I gather that for surfaces that need to retain oil then they should be run dry for a few minutes to remove the epilame from the working surface (which needs to retain lube) but leaves it on the non working surfaces which need to be lube free.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thank you so much, Hector and CJ. I appreciate the tech sheet and the video. Gasp, I think I will make the attempt. What's the worst that can happen? I think there may be a new balance complete in my future, though.  I'll update the post and let you know the result. R, Frank  
    • So here is the new base (v 2.1), I made it so that the base will fit over and swallow the stump of the hand pusher tool (or at least my clone of the tool), I also reduced the OD of the bottom skirt a little as it looked/felt a little large, here are a few pictures and the fake .pdf file which you need to convert to .zip once downloaded.   The cut-out seen on the below image on the bottom of the base should swallow the OD (40 mm, +0.1 mm tolerance) of the stump and the height of the stump 9.5mm (measured to 9.1mm, but rounded to 9.5mm) - let me know if this works for your tool.   Note, I think you may need to print supports for the new internal shelf created? Here is the fake .pdf for just the FreeCAD base file and 3mf files Modular Movement Holder.pdf Here is the fake pdf for complete set of the new base and ring FreeCAD/3mf files: Modular Movement Holder base and ring v 2.1.pdf However, I'm wondering how often you could use this feature, adding the dial usually increases the OD of the movement, so you would need a new (larger) adapter ring tuned to the OD of the dial and I wouldn't like to grip the dial in any kind of movement holder if It could be avoided for fear of damaging it. Maybe I'm misunderstanding you?
    • Hi Frank, you have dived headlong into the deep end. Hairspring work has to be the scariest thing a newbie has to tackle. Your hairspring appears to be bent and just putting it back into the regulator would not allow the balance to work properly. It might start oscillating but the performance would not be good. The proper thing to do is to unstud the hairspring, remove the hairspring from the balance, reinstall the hairspring on the stud carrier, reshape the endcurve and centre the collet to the balance jewel hole. This challenge would either make you or break you. Hope that you will be able to fix your watch. Welcome to the world of watchmaking.  Watch this video. It think it'll give you an idea of the task ahead. From your 1st photo, I think you have a etachron type stud. Let me see if I can find a video on how to remove it from the arm.
    • Have read of the Tech Sheet attached on the balance section page 12. It may be bent but until you reposition it back in the regulator pins you'll never know. Cheers CJ 4R35B_4R36A.pdf
    • Aloha All, My Seiko 4R35B movement stopped working today. Upon closer inspection, it looks like the balance spring came out of the regulator pin. This is my first time working on a balance. Any advice on how to get this spring repositioned (back to normal)? I'm pretty sure that while adjusting the beat error on this movement, I must have turned the stud (I didn't even know they turned), and the spring eventually fell out.  Will the spring go back to even spacing when it's back in the pin, or does it look bent? Thanks, Frank  
×
×
  • Create New...