Jump to content

Vostok 2416B - second hand stops when watch is dial up


Recommended Posts

Hi all!

I wanted to ask if anyone could help me with my Vostok situation. So I have a 710 vostok that I've been modding extensively (the only thing that's not swapped on the watch is the case and the movement) and really enjoying the process. A few days ago I attempted to swap the dial and hands. I let the watch run out charge over few days, removed the rotor to prevent winding, took the crown out, removed the hands and dial, got a new dial and hands on it, reversed the process to put it back together.

So the watch now works when it's lying dial down, but stops when I lift it up and turn it to me. It starts ticking again if I give it a good shake but eventually stops if I give it a slightest of bumps or movement while it's facing me. It seems to work fine when it's facing down. The hands turn normally, they're not touching each other while rotating etc. I tried shaking the watch until it starts running and gently putting down on a table and leaving it overnight, and it continued ticking in the morning, but as soon as I try to pick it up it stops. What could be causing this issue? 

I did take apart the movement few months ago when the new crown wouldn't lock in place and managed to get it working again, so it was running and kept very good time. This time however I just swapped hands and dial 

Thanks all!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The first suggestion I'd make given that out worked before the dial and hand swap is to remove the replacements and leave it wound and see if it works. If so it's either the dial or the hands binding or catching.

If not, it has to be something in the movement. Possibly an ingress of dirt.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks for the help guys! VWatchie I already found your thread but I'll check it again. Nice to know about acetone, I still have to get the shellac off since I made a little mess. I adjusted the jewel, put new shellac (the so called soldering technique, pallet tool too hot this time so the shellac "wire" melted in air before getting in contact with jewels or fork) rinsed the pallet fork and put it back dry. Amplitude is now in the 240-250 range that I expected in the first place. I guess there's enough oil in the escape wheel teeth already but I'll check that later. The mainspring was pretty beaten so a new one would probably boost the amplitude even further. Nice to learn new things. Now I have another thing to look for while disassembling. I wonder if the watch left the factory that way. 
    • Would be interesting to see it 🙂
    • These are all American movements (with the exception of the "Rubis"), and are all almost certainly "negative set" which means the stem is part of the case. So it's normal that they are all missing- they are with their cases. You will need male square bench keys to wind/disarm them. Vintagewatchstraps has a great writeup on the different systems. But basically, any American "x" size movement will fit any case for that size, possibly with some adjusting of the stem position. With Swiss movements, there is some interchangeability between calibers, usually within the same maker's range, but not really overall- there are thousands of different stems out there.
    • Hi, I'm very new to watchmaking and this is my first time posting here.  I've bought a lot of 10 vintage pocket watches size 0s from e-bay and just got them today.  Most of the balance wheels sprung quite freely and thus seemed like a worthy endeavor as a first batch for exploration.  I've just realized that none of them have any winding stems. Is there any way I could source appropriate winding stems for the movements? There seems to be assortments of various stems selling in bulk on aliexpress, but would any of them fit?  I've read on other threads that some people lathe their own stems (which is waaaay out of my current skill set, which is pretty much nil). Others say that you 'just have to try a few and see if they fit'. I would much appreciate any advice for this matter. Thanks!
    • Nice work.  In the last year, I have been servicing Accutron 218s.  I have the official Accutron hoder that provides electrical contact to the movement.  It is a pretty clever design.  There is a cut in the ring of the holder (shaped like a "C").  When in relaxed state, the holder is slightly smaller than the watch movement.  You spread the cut slightly and drop the movement in and release.  Very clean.  I have made 3D versions of this setup.  Have not explored using it generally for other movements.
×
×
  • Create New...