Jump to content

Cousins pallet shellac


teegee

Recommended Posts

Recently I re-applied shellac to a pallet fork that had many years ago been exposed to ethanol by some careless individual (ho-hum). I was happy with two beautiful blobs of shellac (see pic) and dumped the fork in my little bench jar filled with naphtha, which is also what I use as rinses in the cleaning machine. 

When it came to oiling the pallets after installation, I noticed that my shellac had turned white and was half eaten away. 

Cousins sells three types of shellac: chunks, a clear stick and a dark brown stick. I have the first two.

- The chunks are no use for pallets and are intended for jewelry work holding etc. They contain a course filler of some sort. Impervious to naphtha.

- The clear stick works very well for pallets and general cementing purposes, but apparently dissolves in naphtha.

Has anyone tried the dark stick? I don't want to buy it just to find it's the same as the clear stick with a coloring agent added. 

What do you use to cement pallet stones (and where can I buy it)?

Cheers!

      Rob

pallet-fork-tool.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/5/2019 at 4:19 PM, jdm said:

PM if you want some from me.

Thanks for the offer jdm! I'll hunt around for flakes first, and PM you if I'm stuck.

I'm seeing waxed and dewaxed flakes for sale online. Not sure if it would make a difference for pallet bonding use.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/6/2019 at 5:08 AM, teegee said:

I'm seeing waxed and dewaxed flakes for sale online. Not sure if it would make a difference for pallet bonding use.

 

I can't remember the rational but I remember reading it was waxed that you want for watch work.    The dewaxed is  common for woodworking finishing, the waxed seemed tougher to find.   My use was work holding where I don't think it matters, but I do recall reading about the two

very neat fixture btw, I have not seen something like that before

Edited by measuretwice
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/7/2019 at 8:09 PM, measuretwice said:

I can't remember the rational but I remember reading it was waxed that you want for watch work.    The dewaxed is  common for woodworking finishing, the waxed seemed tougher to find.   My use was work holding where I don't think it matters, but I do recall reading about the two

I've read about it. Shellac naturally contains 3 - 5% wax, that can be "dewaxed"  to improve adherence for further painting. The flakes are more pale. I don't know which one I have for woodworking but the results are beautiful and very easy to obtain. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Just to update: I got about a tablespoon of shellac flakes from my BHI DLC assessor, and they work great. I just put a tiny chip of it on top of the pallet, heat it until it becomes semi-fluid and spread it to the right places with a sharpened oiler. Then heat a bit more so that it flows out nicely.

I think one tablespoon will fix a lifetime of pallets.. All the other shellacs I have I'll use for cementing workpieces etc.

Cheers!

     Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • All the best, family always comes first, and I believe you have made the right call that you mother deserves your full attention. However, when you need a little outside distraction the guys here will always be available for some banter or a heated discussion on lubrication 🤣.
    • Wire for what? if it's steel then only certain types of steel can be hardened ie high carbon steels: "Mild steel doesn't harden very well. It doesn't have enough carbon. Get something like O1, silver steel or if you want to go full watchmaker, then Sandvik 20AP". Source
    • I'm wondering if there's any specific type of wire I should get for hardening? I would assume it doesn't matter as long as the wire doesn't melt before it is at temp. 
    • Thanks Michael, sorry you were affected by this terrible condition. It can happen to anyone, 50's is the starting territory for it. My mum has been telling me for decades, " if i lose my marbles then shoot me",  my standard reply for that has always been " dont worry mum i bought the shotgun years ago ".  The same goes for me, not being able to communicate or comprehend is a very lonely place, now known to me as Aphasia. My mum had no warning of arriving there, I've had my warning and it was my mum that gave it to me. 
    • It's the hole in the mainplate that has become too big due to wear. I will try with some fine abrasive paper wrapped around a small file. I will start with 3000 grit and see what effect that has. Or I could try with a homemade burnisher. Anyway, I will post the result here soon.
×
×
  • Create New...