Jump to content

Cousins pallet shellac

teegee

By teegee
in Tools & Equipment

 Share

Recommended Posts

teegee Watch Enthusiast

teegee

Posted
Posted

Recently I re-applied shellac to a pallet fork that had many years ago been exposed to ethanol by some careless individual (ho-hum). I was happy with two beautiful blobs of shellac (see pic) and dumped the fork in my little bench jar filled with naphtha, which is also what I use as rinses in the cleaning machine. 

When it came to oiling the pallets after installation, I noticed that my shellac had turned white and was half eaten away. 

Cousins sells three types of shellac: chunks, a clear stick and a dark brown stick. I have the first two.

- The chunks are no use for pallets and are intended for jewelry work holding etc. They contain a course filler of some sort. Impervious to naphtha.

- The clear stick works very well for pallets and general cementing purposes, but apparently dissolves in naphtha.

Has anyone tried the dark stick? I don't want to buy it just to find it's the same as the clear stick with a coloring agent added. 

What do you use to cement pallet stones (and where can I buy it)?

Cheers!

      Rob

pallet-fork-tool.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
teegee Watch Enthusiast

teegee

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 5/5/2019 at 4:19 PM, jdm said:

PM if you want some from me.

Thanks for the offer jdm! I'll hunt around for flakes first, and PM you if I'm stuck.

I'm seeing waxed and dewaxed flakes for sale online. Not sure if it would make a difference for pallet bonding use.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
measuretwice WRT Addict

measuretwice

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 5/6/2019 at 5:08 AM, teegee said:

I'm seeing waxed and dewaxed flakes for sale online. Not sure if it would make a difference for pallet bonding use.

 

I can't remember the rational but I remember reading it was waxed that you want for watch work.    The dewaxed is  common for woodworking finishing, the waxed seemed tougher to find.   My use was work holding where I don't think it matters, but I do recall reading about the two

very neat fixture btw, I have not seen something like that before

Edited by measuretwice
Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
On 5/7/2019 at 8:09 PM, measuretwice said:

I can't remember the rational but I remember reading it was waxed that you want for watch work.    The dewaxed is  common for woodworking finishing, the waxed seemed tougher to find.   My use was work holding where I don't think it matters, but I do recall reading about the two

I've read about it. Shellac naturally contains 3 - 5% wax, that can be "dewaxed"  to improve adherence for further painting. The flakes are more pale. I don't know which one I have for woodworking but the results are beautiful and very easy to obtain. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 months later...
teegee Watch Enthusiast

teegee

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just to update: I got about a tablespoon of shellac flakes from my BHI DLC assessor, and they work great. I just put a tiny chip of it on top of the pallet, heat it until it becomes semi-fluid and spread it to the right places with a sharpened oiler. Then heat a bit more so that it flows out nicely.

I think one tablespoon will fix a lifetime of pallets.. All the other shellacs I have I'll use for cementing workpieces etc.

Cheers!

     Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • ManSkirtBrew
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By ManSkirtBrew · Posted

      Unfortunately I'm not that lucky. I started on the train side and after I noticed the binding I pulled everything out except the driving wheel to rule everything else out. It still binds. I'm going to double check that the pinion is fully seated on the staff first, then if no joy I'll push the bridge jewel up a fraction of a mm. Fingers crossed!
    • Waggy
      Rado rotor removal

      By Waggy · Posted

      Happy to have helped, great way to start the day with a win! 🥳
    • doober
      Rado rotor removal

      By doober · Posted

      Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor. 
    • GuyMontag
      1972 Bulova President "E" Sea King 11ACACB movement

      By GuyMontag · Posted

      I have that French tech sheet too, it is a little different than the English one (eg, it doesn't have the auto works diagram). BTW, it looks like you are looking up the case number in the 1979 ABC supplement. The 1974 ABC catalog does have the 3093 case. As you determined it takes the 1222-5 crystal.  When I serviced my President 'A' (which also takes that crystal), I was able to fit a 29.8 crystal from my DPA crystal assortment. Those are, in my opinion, a great deal. The assortment comes with 10 sizes each from 27.8mm to 32.4mm in 0.2 increments. I pretty much use them for any non-armored crystal that takes a high dome crystal. I think they no longer make them but Cousins has still has some in stock but when I bought them they were around $40 for the set and now they are around $100. Still, at 40 cents a crystal it's still a good deal. For the large driving wheel, I remember I once assembled the keyless/motion works first and when I placed the large driving wheel it was interfering with the setting wheel on the dial side as the teeth were not fully meshing and it wouldn't fully seat. If that isn't the issue I got nothing and am looking forward to see how you solve it 🙂
    • Waggy
      Rado rotor removal

      By Waggy · Posted

      Not sure, but just looking at it, it seems like the screw on the right may be a fake? The one on the left may not be a screw in the regular sense at all, rather a 2 position device, I think you need to point the slot towards either of the 2 dots and one will secure and one will open. Like I said this is just my best guess looking at the pictures.
×
×
  • Create New...