Jump to content

Seiko 6106 Movement "in Loving Memory"


Recommended Posts

Service of a Seiko 6106 Movement

 

 

Sorry I have been slack posting movements I've serviced at home, but work has been busy, and the movements I've been servicing are not that different than what I've already posted ... just more of the same.

Well, I got another one of my Mum's friends who asked if I could repair their watch that was given to him on his wedding day by his wife: who has now sadly passed away :(

Of course I said YES!!  And it turned out to be a lovely old Seiko; but a little worse for wear :unsure:

 

The hands had fallen off, and the plexiglass was so scratched you could hardly read the dial.

post-246-0-13757500-1417350766_thumb.jpg

 

After opening up the caseback, there was evidence of corrosion starting to set in ... but thankfully it was caught in time.

post-246-0-28124300-1417350776_thumb.jpg

 

Here's what the intact movement looks like.

post-246-0-36468400-1417350771_thumb.jpg

 

Once the automatic works were removed, it was obvious this poor old thing has never seen a service since it was purchased in 1974.  Very dirty, and very dry.

post-246-0-59260300-1417350780_thumb.jpg

 

This movement has a complex keyless works which included a pusher for rapid date change, so before I started removing the dial side, I pulled the Balance and Pallet Fork ... just to be sure to be sure :)

Notice how dirty the movement is from this angle as well.

post-246-0-48393100-1417350784_thumb.jpg

 

Ok, on to the dial side, to remove the calendar work and the Keyless work.

post-246-0-58107800-1417350788_thumb.jpg

 

Calendar work is pretty much like all Seiko's ... minus that annoying phillipshead screw, thank the Lord!

post-246-0-13300300-1417350794_thumb.jpg

 

Here's a picture of the Keyless work, with the incorporated pusher system for date change.

post-246-0-30389400-1417350799_thumb.jpg

 

More of a close-up of the pusher arm

post-246-0-89469700-1417350804_thumb.jpg

 

There is also a large spring for the pusher mechanism

post-246-0-63807700-1417351466_thumb.jpg

 

Once that was all disassembled, it was back to the Train Gears and Mainspring.

Notice this movement also has a hack that stops the Train Gears; instead of the Balance ... all very interesting :)

post-246-0-07640600-1417351471_thumb.jpg

 

And for my good mate Bob ... here's the picie of the Automatic work mate :P

Look how dirty and nasty the Eccentric Bearing is ... Ewwwww!

post-246-0-45734200-1417351475_thumb.jpg

 

Here she is coming back together after a long bath in the suds

Lookin much better!

post-246-0-82407700-1417351479_thumb.jpg

 

I polished the case, and spent about 15mins with Ploywatch trying to polishing all the scratches out of the glass ... but it was just too far gone :(

Still at least you can read the Dial now :P

post-246-0-58841300-1417351483_thumb.jpg

 

Off to the Timegrapher and in typical Seiko fashion, once cleaned it purrs :D

post-246-0-65132200-1417351486_thumb.jpg

 

Hope you enjoyed this post, and I'll try to post more often guys.

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excellent post as always Lawson, me too am glad work keeps you busy and in heaven! We were already missing you!

 

Thank you for showing me the automatic assembly...and the excellent pictures of the whole process! I believe this is one of the most outstanding results -- as seen in the time grapher -- considering the age of the movement. As a coincidence, I ordered a bunch of those from Ramon in ebay and will soon be following track, trying to make work some of them.

 

As a side note, since they are not runners and some have an issue with the hairspring (missing, broken, twisted, etc) I was wondering if there is a way to find an equivalent hairspring to fit in the balance wheel and how to go about ordering it. If you have any information -- or any other member reading this -- on the subject/process/how to, please let me know or create a new link. it will be deeply appreciated.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice one Lawson, very well presented as always.

 

Bob,

 

Good idea about the hairspring, although I will have to get yet more kit to fit one. I have a 6106-8240 in grade A nick & a 6106-5410 (my Dads old watch) with balance issues. Managed to track down a second hand balance (no NOS to be had) but was still being a git & has been on the back burner for a while. The balance is listed as part No. 310.611 but I am informed that 310.614 will fit, Stefan AKA scillachi61 on fleabay has some  & have just ordered one(not cheap unfortunately, but that's the price of hens teeth). Will let you know how it works in due course.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

bobm12, on 01 Dec 2014 - 03:49 AM, said:

As a side note, since they are not runners and some have an issue with the hairspring (missing, broken, twisted, etc) I was wondering if there is a way to find an equivalent hairspring to fit in the balance wheel and how to go about ordering it. If you have any information -- or any other member reading this -- on the subject/process/how to, please let me know or create a new link. it will be deeply appreciated.

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

 

Hey Bob,

 

For Seiko spare parts I use "speedtimerkollektion" on fleabay.  His prices are very reasonable, and if he doesn't have the Seiko part you need listed, just send him a PM in ebay and he normally has it in stock.

 

Hope that helps my old friend :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

noirrac1j, on 01 Dec 2014 - 12:21 PM, said:

Fantastic post Lawson, and excellent work on the Seiko. What oil/grease do you use for the autowinder?

 

JC

 

My oils at home are a little limited ... D5, 9010, 9501, 8200, 9415, and silicon grease.

 

This is what I used ...

On the Eccentric Bearing - D5

On the jewel for the Pawl Arms - D5

On the Pawl Gear pivots - 9010

 

It seems to have done the trick quite nicely.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also if anyone is wondering why there is a rub mark around the outer edge of the Base Plate and the Mainspring Housing, that is the sign of an Eccentric Bearing failure.  It's still working in this particular watch, but it's being to foul and will have to be replaced ASAP.

 

post-246-0-01436000-1417430535_thumb.jpg

 

Just thought I'd add that little note to help others in their fault finding.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 10 months later...
  • 2 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...


  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I've remained silent on this thread, and at the risk of upsetting everyone, the thing that worries me the most the the apparent absence of Mark. The moderators do a great job and the members also pitch in, and the site seems to run itself, but it is a concern for the future of this forum when the owner is absent for all intents and purposes. Like many of the comments above I would hate to log in one day and things be closed down as I rely on this site for ideas and knowledge and also cheer me up. maybe the Moderators could reach out to him, assuming he does not read this thread, and express our concerns and let us know the plans going forward? some kind of WRT ark
    • That was the exact reason for me starting this thread watchie. Still we haven't worked out how the regulars are going to hook up if it goes tits up. I honestly think something should be arranged to stay in contact, we all help each other so much. 
    • Yeah ive watched that a few times before,  i couldnt find my old school dividers to scribe it up 😅 Yep thats the guy i bought a roll from . Thanks Nicklesilver that answers that perfectly and more or less what i thought an experiment over time would prove . The jumper arm is quite thick along its length, i left it that way intentionally, i thought the original was probably very thin, i didnt see that it was already missing. Setting isn't particularly stiff as such just positive, i still need to take it out and polish where it mates with the stem release. 
    • Yes, "Sold out" is difficult to understand. There doesn't seem to be a lot going on. It's been nine months since any new video was published on the Watch Repair Channel. The Level 4 course on watchfix.com has been in progress for what feels like forever (several years!?). Maybe Mark's enterprises aren't doing well or perhaps already so profitable there's nothing much to motivate him for more material. Or, perhaps these days he's more into crochet. The real reason is probably something entirely different but it would be nice/interesting to know. I don't mean to sound gloomy or pessimistic, but I wouldn't be surprised to be met by an HTTP 404. Every day feels like a gift. Speaking of watchfix.com I've been postponing the "Level 5: Servicing Chronograph Watches" course for a very, very long time. Anyway, I just enrolled on it so it's going to be very interesting to see the videos. I must say, IMO there's nothing really that can compete with Mark's courses when it comes to presentation and video quality. It's simply world-class and makes me associate with some really expensive BBC productions.
    • Steel has some funny properties, or at least counterintuitive. The modulus of elasticity is effectively (not exactly, but close enough) the same for steel that is annealed and hardened. What changes is the point of plastic deformation* . If the movement of your spring doesn't pass that, it should work fine. It looks a little thick, I would thin it a bit maybe from the main body out about halfway, maybe 10-20% thinner (not in thickness, along its form). But if it works it works!   *So- if you have two bars of the same steel, one annealed, one at 600 Vickers (general hardness watch arbors might be), clamp them to a table so the same length is hanging out, and put a weight on the ends, they will bend the same amount. But if you continue to add weight, then remove it, at a point the annealed bar won't return to its original straightness. That's the point of plastic deformation. But up to that point, as springs, they are the same. However- their wear characteristics will be very very different. And getting the hardened bar past its point of plastic deformation takes a lot more effort.
×
×
  • Create New...