Rub-in jewels have integrated end stone, out of obsession I am always concerned if I have managed to get enough oil on its end stone, automatic oiler seem assuring to have dispensed that certain amount of oil there, one can double the amount by pumping twice and the exactness of the amount is a nice control to have.
In a sense, same story with screw on end stones, you can just screw the end stone on and then oil. Much neater outcome since end stone plate/ holder is sure to move when you try to place it on and oil gets spread around by the old method.
I use old accupuncture needles as oiler.
I wouldn't follow the Seiko guide too closely. There's the obviously questionable suggestion that you oil the pallet pivots, and there's the use of "S-6" in parts of the train. That's a grease, and I know of no other manufacturer that call for the use of grease in any part of the train in any caliber this size. I would improvise and use HP1300 there like any other automatic device. I would however use some grease on pawl and ratchet teeth on the second reduction wheel. I can see that wearing down over time without a heavier lubricant.
I understand your teacher's position, i think it's not a strictly necessary tool. What the automatic can't replace is the applicator which is a fine round pin for jewels where is difficult or not practical to separate the cap jewel, e.g. the two small diashock on Seiko, or rubbed in.
I got a hunch you will see high amplitute if you let it run overnight again and that it is a low quality new movement, furthurmore, TG would show parrallel graphs for retests.
Cost free to check.
Needless to say, enhance amplitute is generally obtainable through suitable lubrication of the escapement, by suitable I mean to include "amount" of the lubricant.