Jump to content

Citizens 4-901177 K (Cal.8110A) Restoration


Recommended Posts

Hi W,  Looks good, shiny clean new looks. 

I escpeciaaly like the shock system on 8810A, No end or side shake, excellent chrome plating. Some weakness in complitions yet overall good deal for the money.

Wear it in health and happiness.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/1/2019 at 12:43 PM, Nucejoe said:

Hi W,  Looks good, shiny clean new looks. 

I escpeciaaly like the shock system on 8810A, No end or side shake, excellent chrome plating. Some weakness in complitions yet overall good deal for the money.

Wear it in health and happiness.

Thank you for your kind words. If you recall you helped me out early on in this project which resulted me in tearing down a number of these 8110A while leaning to master them.

All my best to you,

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/1/2019 at 1:48 PM, rogart63 said:

What a great cleanup you have done. It didn't look like it could become so nice . Have you change the chapter ring as that looks like it would be far gone. 

Thank you, you have an observant eye and good question. Based on the before pic it does not look like the same chapter, but honestly, I can remember anymore. As part of this process I have collected a number of these Citizen’s i.e. complete watches, cases and parts.

I am a Seiko guy but have grown to appreciate the 8110A, there a bit more complex .

Take care and all the best

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Nice watch and better than the Seiko 6139 in that it has flyback.

In my view the only minus points are the base metal case and the fact that its proportions are a bit bulky.. to thick for its width.

I also like the unusual way you set the day, by clicking one of the pushers when in date quickset mode.

Anilv

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Just a note for those who come searching for information on this topic in the future.  I did eventually find the Mark's video on how to replace these springs, as someone observed, he does in fact make the replacement look easy.  (It actually is relatively easy once you have the knack of it.) If you're enrolled in one of Mark's online courses, the demonstration of how to replace this spring is in the Bonus Videos section of his course site, and is called "C2B1 – Sea-Gull Style Shock Springs".
    • If the metal was twice as thick, it wouldn't snap so easily.  The thickness is governed by the space available so you can't use thicker metal.  If you glued two pieces together, the likelihood of snapping would be reduced.  That's my theory anyway, could be wrong. 
    • there are various approaches to learning watch repair. A lot of people want to jump right in and every single watches something to be repaired restored. But other times like this it's disposable it's here for you to learn and when you're through learning you throw it away. yes you definitely should try this you have a learning movement you need to learn and the best way to learn is by doing something.
    • Sorry, the friction will be so great that the wheel will barely turn, if the movement will start at all, the amplitude will be verry lo.
    • If I can’t re-pivot the wheel, the logical thing to do is to descend the pivot hole.  Plan is to either stick a suitably sized hole jewel (from a barrel bridge or something) or fashion a blob of epoxy on the underside of the escape wheel cock so the wheel sits on its one pivot on the base plate and the staff with the broken off pivot (which I’ll polish as best as I can) becomes the upper pivot. As long as it doesn’t foul the 4th wheel it should work? I know it’s a bodge job, and if this were a rare movement, or belonged to someone else I would not do this. I’m just interested to see if I can get the thing to run. 
×
×
  • Create New...