Strange I have two Fema clock movements to repair, both with broken mainsprings and one with a broken click spring, can you please tell me, are the click springs readily available???has anyone bought one, if so where from?
Photo attached of good click spring, this is the type that I need..
Hope you are all well..
Hmmm, kind of!
But........ It shows great potential as a hobbyist alternative, with some tweaking.
After a back and forth with @Andyhull on another thread it got me to thinking perhaps it's not as useless as my initial annoyance led me to think, (I broke a mainspring trying it but to be fair the spring had been previously abused and the tool wasn't ideally sized allowing the coils to jump and tangle).
I had a bit of a resize with sanding stick and scalpel and tried again and it's certainly got promise, I need to tweak the file to suit specific barrels but it's a simple quick 3 part print using barely any filament.
Obviously not anywhere near as good as the proper bergeon winder but definitely cheaper for the hobbyist, (even if you haven't already got a printer and had to buy one first).
Here's a video of it if anyone is interested, comments and ideas are welcome.
I have a Rotary Monza I am fixing up. I disassembled the barrel and removed and cleaned the mainspring. I secured a copy of the parts list and it shows that as well as the mainspring, there is also a Brake Spring (part 775 on the picture). What is it, and do I really need it? Certainly Cousins does not sell it. I googled AS 1902 brake spring and ONE result came up of a Russian watch forum discussing this item. Apparently it is thicker than a normal spring and it seems to have some sort of bent over feature on it. Can I just make one using the old mainspring? If so, how long should it be? Is it really necessary?
ROTARY Monza AS 1902.pdf
I have an ETA 2750 movement and I need to replace the mainspring. My catalogs don't cover this caliber. The current mainspring, based on my measurements has the dimensions Dennison (Metric), W: 5 1/2 (1.45 mm), T: 9 (0.13 mm), L: ~ 14 1/2" (368 mm). However, due to its age and the fact that it's been serviced before I'm not completely sure the old spring is the correct one. So my first question is are these the right dimensions for the proper mainspring for the 2750?
My second question is does anybody know some part or catalog numbers for the correct mainspring by some different manufactures of springs, such as Marco, Nu Vigor, Sandsteel, etc.? I have some cabinets of mainsprings from which I might be able to get one but I need to know the a catalog/part number--some number I can cross reference to what I have. Hope this makes sense. Thanks.
I'm looking for a replacement mainspring for an old Elgin movement. CousinsUK seems to me to have the best "look-up" feature UNLESS your search comes up empty. The original spring is 0.1MM X 1.25 MM X roughly 270MM in length. this of course turns up nothing. What variable do you start with that is least injurious to the movement and accuracy when you must locate a substitute mainspring. I understand that heaight and length are rather fixed variables. Can I go up slightly in strength without too much badness happening?
OK, I'm tempted to pull the trigger on the glass press that you and @jdm suggest, but I feel confused about the dies.
May I ask where you got your dies? Will I be needing adapters as shown in the ad that @jdm linked to, and do you think those would actually fit? Perhaps those dies and the adaptors would work really well with this tool? Googling "M6-hole dies", "M6-hole glass press dies" and similar I'm afraid hasn't been very helpful...
The armoured glass I'm currently trying to fit a to Vostok Amphibian (Vintage Albatros Radio Room from the 80-ties) is approx. 31mm.
Sorry for going on about this!
I have found this on ebay. The same tool you are thinking of buying for a hell of lot less money. What I do not like is other stuff at his shop looks like rubbish
He means that rotates relative to the spindle. If you pay attention in your picture you see the upper die support being a bit tilted one side, that is because it's free to move, as it couldn't be otherwise. It's pointless to push sellers for much technical data, they are sellers not watchmakers.
Once again I suggest that you go for the other type, the price in the 1st link you included is robbery and the design is, after all, outdated.