Jump to content
  • 0
Sign in to follow this  
saswatch88

What is up with seiko stems??? Anyone Know?

Question

hello, I have an issue with a stem from a seiko 6106 rally diver, I have had the same issue with a 6139 and 6105 as well and ITs totally mind boggling. How could a stem which is made for the same exact watch not fit right in a different case for the same watch? for example i had a 6106 which is mint i fully restored it new factory crystal fully serviced movement all i needed was a stem and crown. I purchased a parts 6106 the exact same model! literally same model 6106-8100 (since no other crown from 6106 is the same as the rally diver version) when i put the stem and crown in the case it is really hard to pull the crown out, yet when i put it back into the old it case its perfect! I had this issue with a 6139 and a 6105 same situation same exact case and model. i cleaned the inside of the tube i greased the washer, i mean what the hell! can someone explain this twighlight zone phenomenon with seiko stems???

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

10 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

If it happens with a given case but not another, then the problem is with the crown / case matching, not the stem.

it can be a size issue, which you can measure, or an alignment issue, which you can identify placing a bit of colored paste and observe where it stays and where it clears by friction.

In both cases a touch with the lathe on the crown may be needed.


 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

its def. an oem crown and both crowns and stems are exactly the same. the movement spacer is perfectly aligned. i never have this problem with any other brand besides seiko its almost as if each crown is manufactured along with their respective case and wont fit right in any other case.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
26 minutes ago, saswatch88 said:

its def. an oem crown and both crowns and stems are exactly the same. the movement spacer is perfectly aligned. i never have this problem with any other brand besides seiko its almost as if each crown is manufactured along with their respective case and wont fit right in any other case.

Brand blaming aside, I think that if you go over the steps I've detailed above you should be able to identify the issue exactly.
Of course another way to determine crown / tube "size match" is to try the crown alone in each case, compare the friction you feel. And if isn't that, then is the alignment of the two..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
2 hours ago, jdm said:

Brand blaming aside, I think that if you go over the steps I've detailed above you should be able to identify the issue exactly.
Of course another way to determine crown / tube "size match" is to try the crown alone in each case, compare the friction you feel. And if isn't that, then is the alignment of the two..

i tried that, the crown fits fine in the one gets stuck in the other. there is no visible damage to the tubes for both case and crown. i believe the issue to be the outside of the case tube not the inside. i just dont get it. I dont have a lathe so i cant really do any modifying. i guess i will just have no choice but transfer the crystal and bezel to the other case. just sucks because i have to polish the other case and its not mint the like the case i wanted to use.

Edited by saswatch88

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
59 minutes ago, Melt said:

Interesting. Have you tried the crown and stem in the serviced watch outside the case? Is it still difficult to pull out?

stem and crown operate fine in the movement while outside the case. its an issue with with crown going into the case. it still operates as it should when all together but its really hard to pull the crown out to set the time. i actually need crown pliers to get out you cant even do it with your fingers. and again this is happened with a 6105 case and a 6139 case. i just dont get it

Edited by saswatch88

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
9 hours ago, saswatch88 said:

i believe the issue to be the outside of the case tube not the inside. i just dont get it. I dont have a lathe so i cant really do any modifying.

Seiko tubes have external threading, which should contact the crown only when you press and turn. So if you try the crown without its gasket and movt, does it slides free?

If so you could try a smaller o ring. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
On 4/26/2019 at 2:09 AM, jdm said:

Seiko tubes have external threading, which should contact the crown only when you press and turn. So if you try the crown without its gasket and movt, does it slides free?

If so you could try a smaller o ring. 

i think thats what i have to do remove the o ring

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Answer this question...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Don't forget to clean it off spit with distilled water or isopropanol afterwards though, as it contains quite a lot of bacteria, which may dine out on the varnish in the long term. The bacterial content of human saliva is the main reason I would suggest that you never blow in to a watch, or breath on to a camera lens to "clean" it. Slightly more aggressive is white vinegar, which works on certain stains and marks, but needs careful testing with a tiny amount on an area that is not going to be seen. It may dissolve some types of lacquer. Denatured alcohol works on some stains, but again it also dissolves some finishes, likewise acetone, isopropanol, and other organic solvents.   As has been stated, any action runs the risk of further damage. Even tap water, depending on the mineral content, may leave annoyingly obvious marks when it dries. Less is often more, so work on small areas at a time, use good magnification so you can see the results of your actions close up,  and if you get the slightest hint that the varnish is lifting, or the finish is being damaged, stop before you ruin the whole thing.
    • JDM,   No, does no more pay. VWatchie, no personal experience, that type is a newer one. But it has the Indian look. Frank
    • Yes it should be a tapered screw, it forces the hammer arms apart or lets them come closer together. They are often really tight. Put some oil around the perimeter of the head and coax it in both directions. A little turning usually makes a big adjustment, careful! You may not need to adjust it though, do you have clearance with the minute cam? Also, the jumper spring that brings the hammer in contact with the cams doesn't generally have a lot of power. It needs to be greased and reliably coming into contact with the cams. The hammer faces will need a light coat of grease where they contact the heart cams.
    • With a ring inside the crystal this is an armed tension type. The Sternnkreuz 'G22' catalogue covers these which you can download at http://www.sternkreuz.de/accordion/assets/Sternkreuz_Gesamtkatalog G22.pdf Whilst for the Sternkreuz 'ST'' range Roamer does have some specific citations (p25), for the 'ATC' range you need none are mentioned. Almost certainly therefore you'll be fine with a standard ATC crystal that meets your measurements. The usual advice is to go 0.1 larger than the outside diameter measurement you've taken. This means when you release the crystal, after it has been gently 'squeezed' in the claw removal/fitting tool, it makes a nice tight fit. Since you're using Cousins your best bet is going to therefore be https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/standard-chrome-ringed-glass-atc# and the 30.7mm size.    
    • Is not that difficult really. As Matabog noted, dies threaded M6 are standard. The nice expensive set have their Dia. specified, the Chinese write Rolex just to indicate quality, but we know that true Rolex-specific dies are for the screw-on case-backs ...that's another story. Then on AliX search  "watchmaker dies", 20 pieces nylon are like$8, aluminium quite a bit more. I personally choose based on shipping times, things have improved but China post is still very slow, HK, NL post are OK, 7-10 days. 
×
×
  • Create New...