Jump to content
  • 0
Sign in to follow this  
saswatch88

What is up with seiko stems??? Anyone Know?

Question

hello, I have an issue with a stem from a seiko 6106 rally diver, I have had the same issue with a 6139 and 6105 as well and ITs totally mind boggling. How could a stem which is made for the same exact watch not fit right in a different case for the same watch? for example i had a 6106 which is mint i fully restored it new factory crystal fully serviced movement all i needed was a stem and crown. I purchased a parts 6106 the exact same model! literally same model 6106-8100 (since no other crown from 6106 is the same as the rally diver version) when i put the stem and crown in the case it is really hard to pull the crown out, yet when i put it back into the old it case its perfect! I had this issue with a 6139 and a 6105 same situation same exact case and model. i cleaned the inside of the tube i greased the washer, i mean what the hell! can someone explain this twighlight zone phenomenon with seiko stems???

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

10 answers to this question

Recommended Posts

  • 0

If it happens with a given case but not another, then the problem is with the crown / case matching, not the stem.

it can be a size issue, which you can measure, or an alignment issue, which you can identify placing a bit of colored paste and observe where it stays and where it clears by friction.

In both cases a touch with the lathe on the crown may be needed.


 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0

its def. an oem crown and both crowns and stems are exactly the same. the movement spacer is perfectly aligned. i never have this problem with any other brand besides seiko its almost as if each crown is manufactured along with their respective case and wont fit right in any other case.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
26 minutes ago, saswatch88 said:

its def. an oem crown and both crowns and stems are exactly the same. the movement spacer is perfectly aligned. i never have this problem with any other brand besides seiko its almost as if each crown is manufactured along with their respective case and wont fit right in any other case.

Brand blaming aside, I think that if you go over the steps I've detailed above you should be able to identify the issue exactly.
Of course another way to determine crown / tube "size match" is to try the crown alone in each case, compare the friction you feel. And if isn't that, then is the alignment of the two..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
2 hours ago, jdm said:

Brand blaming aside, I think that if you go over the steps I've detailed above you should be able to identify the issue exactly.
Of course another way to determine crown / tube "size match" is to try the crown alone in each case, compare the friction you feel. And if isn't that, then is the alignment of the two..

i tried that, the crown fits fine in the one gets stuck in the other. there is no visible damage to the tubes for both case and crown. i believe the issue to be the outside of the case tube not the inside. i just dont get it. I dont have a lathe so i cant really do any modifying. i guess i will just have no choice but transfer the crystal and bezel to the other case. just sucks because i have to polish the other case and its not mint the like the case i wanted to use.

Edited by saswatch88

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
59 minutes ago, Melt said:

Interesting. Have you tried the crown and stem in the serviced watch outside the case? Is it still difficult to pull out?

stem and crown operate fine in the movement while outside the case. its an issue with with crown going into the case. it still operates as it should when all together but its really hard to pull the crown out to set the time. i actually need crown pliers to get out you cant even do it with your fingers. and again this is happened with a 6105 case and a 6139 case. i just dont get it

Edited by saswatch88

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
9 hours ago, saswatch88 said:

i believe the issue to be the outside of the case tube not the inside. i just dont get it. I dont have a lathe so i cant really do any modifying.

Seiko tubes have external threading, which should contact the crown only when you press and turn. So if you try the crown without its gasket and movt, does it slides free?

If so you could try a smaller o ring. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 0
On 4/26/2019 at 2:09 AM, jdm said:

Seiko tubes have external threading, which should contact the crown only when you press and turn. So if you try the crown without its gasket and movt, does it slides free?

If so you could try a smaller o ring. 

i think thats what i have to do remove the o ring

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Answer this question...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Greetings folks. I've been working on watches as a hobby for about 20 years now.  I started out on pocket watches and have never cleaned a clock. In fact, I had a great cleaning machine, with the big jars, and a few other clock tools, that I gave away to an aspiring clock guy over at the Tascione site. But I digress... Nearly 20 years ago I bought a Hamilton model 21 ship's chronometer. It's an early one, pre 400 serial number, and is a thing of beauty, as these generally are. Back when I got it, I had a professional service it for me. It was done well, but wasn't cheap. $400-500, IIRC. I used to display it in my living room and run it occasionally just to hear the escapement and marvel it its accuracy. From about 2009 to 2014 it sat in my storage unit, waiting for new digs. In 2014 I wound it up and it took off running. I let it run down and then put it away for a couple of years. When I pulled it out, I discovered that it had a broken balance pivot. While originally I thought someone had knocked it over and wasn't copping to it, but now, after inspecting the upper pivot's wear, I don't think that's the case. After botching the first staff I got trying to replace the hub, I set it aside again for the past couple of years. The way I broke the staff was I overestimated how deep the hollowness went in my hollow punch that I was using to tap it on. It bottomed out in the punch and destroyed the pivot. Now that I'm finally over that disappointment, I decided to give it another go. I bought a staff that already had the hub installed. I may have to polish the lower pivot, as it doesn't seem to want to set in the hole jewel properly. I'm in the process of verifying all of this. I had to tear down the chronometer at least to the point where I could check to see if the broken part of the pivot was impeding the staff from setting properly. The hole jewel is clear. I'm doing the best I can to do it right, and get it running again. I won't be running it, but want it running just in case I should decide to sell it. Otherwise the value drops quite a bit. Since I have it completely torn down now, I might as well clean and oil it. Does anyone have a hot tip on the best cleaning solutions for cleaning these chronometers? I'd like to use something that will cross over and work for my cleaning of watches as well. I have both an ultrasonic and the small L&R mechanical. I have one more fresh batch of cleaner and rinse, petroleum, no-water, formula. Should I use that, or make, or get, something new? Any tips for oil and grease types to get me by? Any suggestions are appreciated. I do have the Manual for the movement. I know that this is risky business, my working on this chrono, but I just can't afford to spend another $500 to get it running. Plus, I heard that if you're going to run these, you've got to spend this $500 or so to service them every few years. That is not going to happen. Feedback, suggestions, warnings, tips, etc., are all welcome. Many thanks. Cheers.  
    • Hello - I have Tag Heuer F1 Chronograph ca1212-ro, which I've had for many, many years.  Recently I noticed a pusher "cap" had come off and was lost, I have sourced an new pusher, and have removed the movement but am at a loss for how to remove the pusher from the case???  The new pusher is not threaded so I'm assuming the old one is not either - assuming the pusher I was sold is correct.  Are the pushers a o-ring press fit, are they "glued" in, how are they removed and reinstalled?  Any help is greatly appreciated!  Thanks - Nick
    • It would just be a video of me poking and prodding for hours I'm afraid. But the basic procedure for me is, move the index right next to the stud holder, and rotate stud so that the hairspring at this point is centered in the index. Then I move the index little by little away from the stud. If at any point as I'm advancing the index I see the hairspring start to deviate from the center of the pins I back the index up and either tighten or widen the curve, checking the curvature by moving the index over the problem spot after every manipulation. I keep doing this until I get to the dog leg and now I have a perfectly formed end curve. Next is to just fiddle with the two bends at the dog leg to get the collet to center on the jewel. Also check constantly that the collet isn't sticking to the cock by tapping on the cock whenever you are checking your work to make sure the hairspring is in its fully relaxed state. I don't have any special techniques really. It's basically just time and patience. Feel free to ask though if you want me to be a little more specific about anything.
    • Now that this project has been completed, I hope that some of you might be inspired to pick up a scroll saw and try out this craft. Its not hard, just tedious and repetitive but you can make some beautiful pieces of art and there are all kinds of patterns out there for everything one could imagine. This clock is not difficult at all, there are clocks that take guys months or even years to make. Cherry tree toys has the most awesome patterns I've come across and Berry basket has some simple yet beautiful stuff, in fact this clock is from a pattern by Cherry tree toys. https://cherrytreetoys.com/scroll-saw-patterns/ https://www.berrybasket.com/
    • I second this approach.  I'll just add heat can also be used to break down the superglue.
×
×
  • Create New...