Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
MrRoundel

Will Junghans shock-spring tool work on a Trishock?

Recommended Posts

Greetings all. I've got a ST 96 movement, aka Gruen 505-6, that I lost the lower balance hole-jewel on. The replacement jewel I bought was for an Incabloc setup and it seems to be of a different size, as the spring is exceedingly difficult to set in place. It also may be that the Trishock type spring is just extra difficult to deal with. Regardless, it would be nice to have the proper tool for setting that spring. Appearance-wise, the Junghans 3-arm springs look very similar, and I may be able to get that tool. Does anyone know if it should work on the Trishock in that Standard 96 movement? Many thanks in advance. Cheers.

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is it the shock spring with a hole in the middle and three arms. Much like a Vostok spring.  I use a small toothpick in the middle so it doesn't fly away. I think you can use the Kif spring tool . 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks, Rogart. Yes, it's the type you described. The Besfit catalog, number 111A, Part 2, Page 720, describes the three-spoke types as being the hardest to identify. There are quite a few different types. 

I think you offered the toothpick suggestion before, but I forgot about it, as it's been a while. That would leave more room to get to the spoke with the other tool being used. I had been trying a whittled down piece of pegwood, but it seemed to be in the way. I'll try it out.

So you don't really try to push the spring arms down?  The spring just sits up too high on the cap jewel to allow the spokes to get in the slot. What are you thoughts on different jewel sizes for different shock setups? While a lot of the STD 96's used Incabloc, which would make getting a jewel easy, the Gruen uses this blasted Trishock type, which seems to take different jewels than the Inca. If I can't get those spokes in I'll just have to buy a parts movement for the lower hole-jewel. Oh well...that's modern watch work on vintage pieces. Thanks again. Cheers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • eBay has a plethora os movements, with case still attached, for next to nothing.  Horological schools usually recommend a particular movement for class work and practice.  However, if you simply want to pull it apart to see how it works and then try to put it back together, buy anything that ticks.  You can pick up a “dollar watch”, times, etc or other vintage unmarked movements for next to nothing.  Seeing things move together is far more important, IMHO, than a specific movement. do be careful!  You may spark a new expensive hobby! :-) cheers from Texas John Allen
    • Cleaned, de-maged and checked h/s for stickyness. Nothing to be observed from that. Did another test you may comment on. With balance removed, I gently nudged the pallet fork side to side to start the release-lock operation. At a couple of close to each other positions on the escape wheel circumference this is not functioning as I believe it should. It all happens fast and is hard to observe but I think there is a ”skip over” where the locking doesn’t happen as it should but locking is happening on the next tooth. As escapement teeth look decent, could this be a case of pallet jewel position on the hairy edge? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
    • Another Timex today. This time a 1974 model/caliber 25 based, 23550 02574 - "possibly a Marlin" but the experts will no doubt be better placed to give me an exact model. This arrived unable to wind or set, which was down to a broken wind/set rocking bar. A suitable replacement was extracted one from a donor movement, and after a quick service and polish, and a fresh crystal this is the result. Another very 1970s curly font black and white dial.  Clean and readable and running well.
    • Unitas Calibre 6325 Service Walkthrough Pictures - Disassembly (Please sort the pictures by name in ascending order) For the disassembly sequence to make sense it is very important that the pictures are sorted by name in ascending order. Generally, the sequence of pictures first shows the part to be removed in its position on the movement and the following picture shows the removed part separately. Unitas Calibre 6325 Service Walkthrough Pictures - Assembly (Please sort the pictures by name in ascending order) For the assembly sequence to make sense it is very important that the pictures are sorted by name in ascending order. Generally, the sequence of pictures first shows the part to be assembled along with any screws holding it in place. The following picture shows the section of the movement where that part is to be assembled along with my lubrication suggestion, and the picture after that shows the part when assembled on the movement. The Unitas calibre 6325 is very similar to the Unitas calibre 6498 which is the course movement on watchrepairlessons.com. Unfortunately, due to its increasing popularity, the Unitas calibre 6498 is becoming more and more expensive, although there are inexpensive Chinese clones. So, in my opinion, Unitas calibre 6325 is an excellent and inexpensive option for the course. As a matter of fact, there is a version of the Unitas calibre 6325 having a bridge configuration that looks to be identical to the Unitas calibre 6498. You’ll find plenty of watches housing the Unitas calibre 6325 on eBay. Unitas Calibre 6325 links: bidfun-db Archive: Watch Movements: Unitas 6325 - mtr-Ranfft Unitas 6325 - 17jewels.info „Wehrmachtswerk“; Unitas 6325 - Junghans Vintage
    • I have a Witschi Chronoscope S1 (1st gen, no touch screen), with automatic mic I bought new about 12 years ago. Before that I used a B200 with Gradoscope for amplitude for years. I needed to print out the tidy little sheets with timing in 6 positions for a big client so there went 7000 of the best bucks I ever spent on tools (and I have literally tons).   Would have about 10,000 cycles on it at an average of 3 per day which is pretty conservative, quite likely more like 20k. It's industrial gear for people who make money with it. They rarely come up secondhand because they rarely break and folks just use them and use them. I'd hate to have to go back to something less.   But obviously it's way overkill for someone who works on watches for fun. Unless they have the cash and enjoy top level gear (I know a couple of collectors who have Witchis). The new Chinese stuff is great, and it's about time. Before it was available a serious collector or watchmaking enthusiast had to mess with computer programs and all the hassles of interfacing the watch to that, or dig up an old paper tape machine which still command more than a weishi if functional.    
×
×
  • Create New...