1920s Unicorn watches

[Tmuir]

Yes I know how Rolex in the 1920s used another manufacturer to make the Unicorn movements, so they are not real Rolex's, just kinda Rolex's by association in that Rolex had these made for them to be sold as cheaper watches.

Below are photos of my Unicorn watch which I can date pretty well due to it being engraved 12/8/1927.

Going by this website the movements were made by BTC ' Beguelin & Cie SA, Manufacture de Montres Damas et Tramelan Watch Co '

http://www.vintagewatchstraps.com/movements.php#BTCo

If anyone can provide more information on these movements that would be great as I am looking for a new hairspring, although I'm guessing to fix this watch I will need to learn a new skill of fitting a new hairspring and regulating it to the watch.

The watch also needs a new balance staff but I plan to attempt to make this.

[AndyHull]

Nice. I presume the original hairspring is not recoverable.

[Tmuir]

Highly unlikely, it is deformed and broken about 5mm from the stud on the bridge.

[RyMoeller]

Felsa movement I think, although what caliber I'm not sure.

I have an orphaned women's Unicorn movement and found that the Felsa 158 was identical.

[Nucejoe]

A piece of the broken HS helps selecting a new one, so far as thickness, stiffness color and appearance, the main issue is the available space in the movement.One with collet already attached and fits is prefered.

Is it a breguet overcoil or flat one.

If you don,t have access to proper tool to fly the balance wheel with HS, you can fly it inside the watch.

Just go as you regularly instal a HS on a movement. Read timing on timegrapher to get an idea of where you are, if runing fast, nothing you can do, but to try another HS.

Adding material to the BW or material removal is not an option, do not touch balance screws.

Only a HS runing slow can be vibrated to produce the desired beat, you keep shortening the HS to get to the right beat. 

Do not cut the extra piece of HS, until the desired beat is obtained.

If you have no TG, time the watch itself on bench.

Keep in touch for advice especially when you get to selecting and shortening the HS.

Regards joe.

 

[Tmuir]

Hi Nucejoe, Its not a Breguet overcoil, just a flat one.

Yes I do have a timegrapher, but this watch is currently on hold as my cheap Bergeon roller table remover won't remove the roller table, So the watch is on hold until my next order from Cousins when I will be the Bergeon staking type roller remover, or I manage to pick up a new (to me) staking set off ebay which has the roller removing stakes and anvils as my current staking set does not.

The balance also has a broken pivot but the whole reason of wanting to make this my next project was to make a new balance staff for the watch as I'm wanting to make a staff for a wristwatch.