Jump to content

What is a clock worth


JimmyD

Recommended Posts

OH makes a good point, "The asking price is completely bonkers" in topic "Another eBay Longcase"

Therefore I have opened this topic.

What is a clock worth? These are a few things I feel affect the price of a clock.

Age, means nothing to the value in real terms.

Condition, has a bearing depending on maker.

Marriage, good for parts.

Repairs, has the clock been repaired properly.

Collectable, has a market, however has to be in very good condition for a real collector to buy.

Rarity, has a big influence.

Maker, this is what you should look at first.

For me it is like paintings, does not matter how old it is, it is the signature at the bottom that dictates the price.

Feel free to add anymore you think affect what you buy, I also think these would flow through to the watch guys on here.    

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would suggest originality has an impact on the value. I’ve seen the discussions where you , O h and others pick apart a clock stating it had this replaced or that changing and the value has been knocked. Good repairs are one thing but replacement parts for non original or the marriage of bits from other works seems to ruin the value.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dont deal in clocks, so as someone who collects on a modest budget and only quite recently, I have a preference for German clocks and carriage clocks prices vary widely main factors being with Ting Tangs is case style the more elaborate the higher the price, my main aim is to buy a clock as original as possible at the cheapest price possible. Condition is very important to me only in that I am quite willing to buy a very tatty looking clock cheap because this after all is a hobby to me, I am not interested in buying restored, good condition examples, because what would be left for me to do there is no fun in that.

I try to Keep any purchases sub £100.00 but sometimes I do splurge a little I have in the last year bought Two triple fusee clocks I paid £450.00 for a Edwardian Winterhalder striking on 5 gongs and a Victorian triple fusee for £650.00 both in Good condition but requiring a modest amount of work.

Ebay is a good place to buy for me I find that I can cut through the chaff and spot a good buy, but like all selling platforms it is full of cloud cuckoo land prices, its up to the seller to set the price and the market to decide if that is a price worth paying.

I do attend auctions on a regular basis and follow results online, I find that quite a few of the dealers will buy a item do nothing and try and sell, I have lost count of the number of times I have seen a clock sell in a auction house and be listed the same or following day on ebay.

I really do think at the moment that Brexit is having a effect on prices, there is too much uncertainty about at the moment in the U.K and this is reflecting in prices it is a good time to buy.

Another thing that I find effects prices greatly on Ebay is a collection only auctions will not do any where near as well as a seller who is willing to post , I am quite willing to have a day out and travel 100 miles to collect a clock from a seller but the vast majority of buyers are not, this weekend I will be travelling to Sunderland to collect a Winterhalder clock I bought the other day, I shall on my way call in at any antique centers along the way and enjoy doing so.

If it came down to what a clock is worth to me how do you break it down on a personal level, I enjoy taking them apart repairing what I can and restoring the cases and have something to show for it at the end of the day, it is a distraction from every day life and enjoyable and that to me is worth more than the monetary value of what I buy.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used to advise a reputable Antique shop when it came to buying clocks. As Long case clocks seam to take priority on the forum I will keep to that.  The first thing I would look for was its originality in movement and case, certainly the type of wood or woods used and condition. An example a good Mahogany case with good colour is better than an Oak case. A case made of rare wood is better than the previous. A brass dial is better than a White dial (painted dial)

Is the movement original to the case? If it is a marriage, leave it alone. Some dealers will say it was married around 150 years ago and is acceptable, I do not agree because it is not original. Any work on the movement has to be good the less the better, don’t bother with altered movements. Look at the case careful to see if it has been altered. Many cases have been shortened, many years ago the clock would be standing on a stone floor and it would get wet from damp and regular floor washing, the damp or rotting wood would be sawn off. Always look at the bottom of the case. Marks inside the case can help, such as rubbing on the inside of the back, is it in line with the pendulum. Bottom inside ledge for the door are there rubbing marks due to the weights constantly going up and down and catching on the ledge, do they fit to the shape of the weights, if so that is a sign of originality. What about the hinges of the door, extremely old cases they will be fixed by nails not screws, nails back then were nothing like we use today. The same goes for the lock for the door. Any part that has modern screws be aware.  Brass dials fit directly to the movement and normally by four pillars. White dial or painted dials have what is called a false plate between the back of the dial and the movement, if not then there is something amiss. Even the glass can tell you something, if it has blemishes and is thicker in places it is telling you it is very old and could be as old as the clock or it has been replaced a very long time ago. Look at the way the glass has been fixed. Hands are most important with experience you can tell if the hands are, correct with the period of the dial. An example if the clock has a seconds hand and the clock dates back to the early 1700 century the hand will be plain and small. The pillars of the clock pay an important part you can date the movement by their design.  The clock maker depending who he is will play a huge part when it comes to value, It is experience as to how much the clock is worth and its demand.

This is just a small part of how you determine the value of a Long case clock. I hope you find it useful

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I've remained silent on this thread, and at the risk of upsetting everyone, the thing that worries me the most the the apparent absence of Mark. The moderators do a great job and the members also pitch in, and the site seems to run itself, but it is a concern for the future of this forum when the owner is absent for all intents and purposes. Like many of the comments above I would hate to log in one day and things be closed down as I rely on this site for ideas and knowledge and also cheer me up. maybe the Moderators could reach out to him, assuming he does not read this thread, and express our concerns and let us know the plans going forward? some kind of WRT ark
    • That was the exact reason for me starting this thread watchie. Still we haven't worked out how the regulars are going to hook up if it goes tits up. I honestly think something should be arranged to stay in contact, we all help each other so much. 
    • Yeah ive watched that a few times before,  i couldnt find my old school dividers to scribe it up 😅 Yep thats the guy i bought a roll from . Thanks Nicklesilver that answers that perfectly and more or less what i thought an experiment over time would prove . The jumper arm is quite thick along its length, i left it that way intentionally, i thought the original was probably very thin, i didnt see that it was already missing. Setting isn't particularly stiff as such just positive, i still need to take it out and polish where it mates with the stem release. 
    • Yes, "Sold out" is difficult to understand. There doesn't seem to be a lot going on. It's been nine months since any new video was published on the Watch Repair Channel. The Level 4 course on watchfix.com has been in progress for what feels like forever (several years!?). Maybe Mark's enterprises aren't doing well or perhaps already so profitable there's nothing much to motivate him for more material. Or, perhaps these days he's more into crochet. The real reason is probably something entirely different but it would be nice/interesting to know. I don't mean to sound gloomy or pessimistic, but I wouldn't be surprised to be met by an HTTP 404. Every day feels like a gift. Speaking of watchfix.com I've been postponing the "Level 5: Servicing Chronograph Watches" course for a very, very long time. Anyway, I just enrolled on it so it's going to be very interesting to see the videos. I must say, IMO there's nothing really that can compete with Mark's courses when it comes to presentation and video quality. It's simply world-class and makes me associate with some really expensive BBC productions.
    • Steel has some funny properties, or at least counterintuitive. The modulus of elasticity is effectively (not exactly, but close enough) the same for steel that is annealed and hardened. What changes is the point of plastic deformation* . If the movement of your spring doesn't pass that, it should work fine. It looks a little thick, I would thin it a bit maybe from the main body out about halfway, maybe 10-20% thinner (not in thickness, along its form). But if it works it works!   *So- if you have two bars of the same steel, one annealed, one at 600 Vickers (general hardness watch arbors might be), clamp them to a table so the same length is hanging out, and put a weight on the ends, they will bend the same amount. But if you continue to add weight, then remove it, at a point the annealed bar won't return to its original straightness. That's the point of plastic deformation. But up to that point, as springs, they are the same. However- their wear characteristics will be very very different. And getting the hardened bar past its point of plastic deformation takes a lot more effort.
×
×
  • Create New...