Jump to content

Seiko v657-9010 crystal replacement loose


wch

Recommended Posts

This is my first attempt in replacing a watch crystal.  Watch is Seiko v657-9010.

  • After removing crystal, there was tacky/sticky substance on the crystal and the case.  It did not appear to be a gasket.
  • Crystal measures 30mm x 1.5mm.
  • https://boley.de/en/case-parts/seiko/33811.v657-9010 did not show a crystal gasket for this case.
  • The old crystal now fits very loose in the case.  Does Seiko use sealant or glue for this case?  What can I do to secure the crystal?
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

54 minutes ago, jdm said:

The gasket size specifies both inner and outer diameter, so it will match crystal size and case opening. 

However if you want to avoid buying a new crystal then use glue, that way you can do without a crystal press also.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 years later...

Hi. How has this turned out? About to do the same thing with the same type of watch, which I bought brand new in 1998 or perhaps 1999.

I agree with 'wch' there isn't a rubber seal by the glass. I also had some kind of sticky paste or glue of sorts around the edge of the glass. Noticed the diameter is slightly larger than 30 mm, so I opted for a branded replacement glass with exact dimensions. 

Any recommendations to new sealant? 

Thought of using Gs-hypo. Will work?

Watch is only water resistant to 5 ATM.

The piece has sentimental value to me, so I dont mind spending a few dollars to get it back in shape. 

 

Tnx

 

Edited by Vector
Adding the fact that the crystal hasn't been tampered with by any other previous owners.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

c0366a_pic1_cmyk.jpg.32c915ccfaf7481716f2c6ee80a2b4eb.jpg

Seiko has an UV cured adhesive for their crystals. This adhesive requires the use of an UV light source to harden the resin. It is ideal for a beginner because there is no working time. But it comes in a rather large bottle, which is sufficient for hundreds of jobs and it's not that cheap. 

I use an UV glue from AliExpress, which is a lot cheaper but it still requires a UV light and comes in an even bigger bottle.

1766054487-1477860187.thumb.jpg.1b74dadd7f65fab652778454920e9c31.jpg
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtEYxri

I also use the UV led torch from them.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • An update, for everyone who contributed advice, and for those who come after with a similar problem. Based on the answers received, I decided to work on the face of the hammer first. I used a square degussit stone to guarantee a vertical surface to work against, and ground the face back until it was square across 90% of the depth. I was conscious of the risk of removing too much material.* After I'd got the shape how I wanted it, I polished the surface with lapping film. To cut a long story short, it did the trick and the hammer hasn't slipped off the cam since. Of course, that wasn't the end of my problems. Have a look at this video and tell me what you think is wrong. https://youtu.be/sgAUMIPaw98 The first four attempts show (0 to 34 sec.) the chrono seconds hand jumping forwards, the next two attempts (35 to 47 sec.) seem "normal", then on the seventh attempt (48 to 54 sec.) the seconds hand jumps to 5 sec. and the minute counter jumps to 1. The rest of the video just shows repeats of these three variants. I solved it by rotating the minute counter finger on the chronograph (seconds) runner relative to the cam.  I'd be interested to hear your opinions on that. It seemed to be the right thing to do, but maybe I've introduced another problem I'm not aware of. * What is the correct relationship between the two hammers and cams, by the way? Should both hammers strike the cams exactly at the same time, or is it correct for the minute counter hammer to be a bit behind the seconds hammer? In this picture, I removed the adjusting screw at 1, and the hammers are contacting the cams simultaneously at 3 and 4. I had to turn the screw down tight to achieve this condition after stoning the seconds hammer and replacing the bridge.
    • It was easy enough to pop off. Once I had the cannon pinion hanging on the blades of the stump, I got my #2 tweezers on the gear attached to the staff and levered it down. That way none of the force was on the brass wheel itself.   I reinstalled it and the bridge, and it looks like a small but reasonable amount of end shake. It also spins easily with a blower. It stops quickly, but I think that's due to the large shoulder and about what I'd expect from this wheel.  
    • Oh, right. For some reason I was picturing a monocoque case in my head. Good looking watch!
    • Well said Ross. My reason for the thread, i like many of us dont want to lose the forum, such a well knitted group of individuals i feel. But things can happen out of anyone's control. Would be nice to have something in place just in case, if anyone has any ideas please speak up. 
    • Ok thanks Ross, I will give that a try!😁
×
×
  • Create New...