Jump to content

Seiko v657-9010 crystal replacement loose

wch

By wch
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

wch New Member

wch

Posted
Posted

This is my first attempt in replacing a watch crystal.  Watch is Seiko v657-9010.

  • After removing crystal, there was tacky/sticky substance on the crystal and the case.  It did not appear to be a gasket.
  • Crystal measures 30mm x 1.5mm.
  • https://boley.de/en/case-parts/seiko/33811.v657-9010 did not show a crystal gasket for this case.
  • The old crystal now fits very loose in the case.  Does Seiko use sealant or glue for this case?  What can I do to secure the crystal?
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

Posted
Posted
54 minutes ago, jdm said:

The gasket size specifies both inner and outer diameter, so it will match crystal size and case opening. 

However if you want to avoid buying a new crystal then use glue, that way you can do without a crystal press also.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 4 years later...
Vector New Member

Vector

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hi. How has this turned out? About to do the same thing with the same type of watch, which I bought brand new in 1998 or perhaps 1999.

I agree with 'wch' there isn't a rubber seal by the glass. I also had some kind of sticky paste or glue of sorts around the edge of the glass. Noticed the diameter is slightly larger than 30 mm, so I opted for a branded replacement glass with exact dimensions. 

Any recommendations to new sealant? 

Thought of using Gs-hypo. Will work?

Watch is only water resistant to 5 ATM.

The piece has sentimental value to me, so I dont mind spending a few dollars to get it back in shape. 

 

Tnx

 

Edited by Vector
Adding the fact that the crystal hasn't been tampered with by any other previous owners.
Link to comment
Share on other sites
HectorLooi Distinguished Member

HectorLooi

Posted
Posted

c0366a_pic1_cmyk.jpg.32c915ccfaf7481716f2c6ee80a2b4eb.jpg

Seiko has an UV cured adhesive for their crystals. This adhesive requires the use of an UV light source to harden the resin. It is ideal for a beginner because there is no working time. But it comes in a rather large bottle, which is sufficient for hundreds of jobs and it's not that cheap. 

I use an UV glue from AliExpress, which is a lot cheaper but it still requires a UV light and comes in an even bigger bottle.

1766054487-1477860187.thumb.jpg.1b74dadd7f65fab652778454920e9c31.jpg
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtEYxri

I also use the UV led torch from them.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • watchweasol
      Chronograph Pusher Rod for EB8371-67 Snapped and Stuck in Button. Can't Unscrew.

      By watchweasol · Posted

      Hi. Yes I get it , the slot in the end I’d to allow you to screw the button on whilst holding the pusher shaft. To remove the pusher tube you will need a tool such as the one shown by Richard. I think Ali Express the Chinese Amazon has replicas of the Horotec system for a lot less money, how effective they are not having had to use one. But as you said the way to go is complete removal and replacement, bodging it up will  lead to a repeat failure
    • JohnR725
      Notifications

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      It does look like it seems to be working again I'm getting emails.
    • JohnR725
      30T2 adjustment of timing washers

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      One of the things that I've been bothered with lately is timekeeping? For instance a 90-year-old pocket watch what so to timekeeping was it supposed to keep? They publish railroad timekeeping but I don't know how well normal non-railroad watches were supposed to keep time. The reason why the question comes up for me is I spend a lot of time at work adjusting watches to keep really really good time  because I have to please my boss where as when the watch was made I have to wonder what kind timekeeping would've been acceptable. After all they typically didn't have timing machines 100 years ago and they were timing and six positions certainly not for the non-railroad grade watch. On the other hand I do get paid by the hour so maybe I shouldn't be concerned of how much time I Spend trying to make everything keep chronometer timekeeping almost. Citing a Delta of 40 seconds for a 90-year-old watch is quite outstanding.
    • JohnR725
      Is this pallet fork over-locking?

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      That's an interesting question which I don't think I've seen explained anywhere. But I think the problem will go away just about instantaneously. In other words the  coating is really thin and it should go away almost immediately. So the problem should resolve itself extremely fast.  
    • VWatchie
      Is this pallet fork over-locking?

      By VWatchie · Posted

      I experienced that different types of shellac and their ages are affected differently by IPA. Sometimes the shellac dissolves in a few seconds and sometimes several minutes are required. Nowadays I never let shellac come into contact with IPA. It's a hotly debated topic here on WRT if you search. Like John, I don't think you need to worry about the weight of the shellac, but instead that it might start rubbing against something. When I learned how to adjust pallet stones, I tried documenting my experiences in this thread. Hopefully, it can help you. I personally don't believe in the idea of abrading the epilame before oiling so I don't think you need to think or worry about it. The only time I've heard anyone mention this is Alex on the YouTube channel Watch Repair Tutorials but actually no one else. I'm not saying it's "wrong" just that I don't think it's necessary or adds anything.
×
×
  • Create New...