All of the watch mainsprings I'm aware of can potentially be hand wound into the barrel, some are just more tricky than others - some shapes or types of mainspring can be awkward regardless of method. Having a pre-wound mainspring is nice when everything is going to plan.
It should only slip to prevent overwinding, otherwise sliding and slipping of the mainspring in the barrel of an automatic will result in very low amplitude and poor running conditions or may not run at all. This why I never oil an automatic MS, even the slightest bit of oil drops the amplitude a clean dry spring with kluber on barrel wall yield 280+ without fail. For me at least can’t speak for others and not going to say my method is the answer. I would say a dry lube is best for a MS if anything. And as most say a lot of new mainsprings come with dry lube ready to be installed.
I finally got round to finishing an overhead drive for my lathe, inspired by pictures of a Schaublin example. I've yet to fit locking handles while I decide whether to go for press fit / threaded in / sliding handles.. and the MDF base is still in the testing stage while I get used to the ergonomics and decide on a way of locating it onto the lathe bench. The short belt was just a length to hand, and the WW headstock will eventually be replaced by another heavier-duty DIY spindle. I'm not entirely unfamiliar with lathe based gear cutting but my own setup is still a work in progress.
Overhead Drive for lathe
Hardinge Cataract gear cutting in progress
A new ratchet wheel for a ladies fusee watch
You need to unscrew the other end of the latch with a small Phillips screwdriver, then it will flip up.if you are careful and have the new battery ready, you can slip it in place without letting he screw fall out of the hole in the latch. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro