Jump to content

Seiko 6309A Rotor Bearing?


Recommended Posts

I was contemplating the purchase of a Seiko 5 (online) and noticed in the pictures of the movement that it looks like the oscillating weight has been rubbing on the movement.  I assume the bearing the weight spins on will need replacement.  That bearing seems to be part of the frame it is attached to (according to the Seiko parts list) and not a separate piece.  My questions is, can this bearing be purchased and installed separately?  I am waiting to hear back from my local parts supplier to see if the bearing and frame assembly is even available.  The auto mechanic in me wants to remove the old bearing and install a new one in the original frame.  Here is a pic of the movement and what the complete replacement part (Seiko 193 601) looks like...

Cheers!

Roger

post-38-0-66015300-1417126068_thumb.pngpost-38-0-10684400-1417125975.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Roger,

 

I believe that part will be either hard to get from a supplier or very expensive considering this movement has been discontinued for many years. CousinsUK list it as obsolete (that's where I get my Seiko parts). You may have an option buying a donor movement from ebay or something...unless you find someone that has one around and want to donate/sell it to you. I usually prefer the 7S26/7S36 and newer movements to work on because of parts availability (mainly).

 

Have your thought about do a complete "transplant" and use a more recent Seiko substitute movement? On the other hand, it might just be a matter of tightening the rotor screw...I bought a Seiko once with the rotor almost loose inside and after tightening it worked perfectly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the helpful insight everyone!  I haven't bought the movement yet so will most likely pass on this one and try to find a Seiko 5 with a movement I can source parts for.  My local supplier also confirmed they no longer carry the rotor bearing assembly.  Clockboy, I will check Speedtimekollektion when I get home from work tonight for future reference - thank you.  Bobm12, I hadn't considered a transplant as I was hoping to buy a Seiko 5 that had a useable movement, but you certainly opened up some other interesting possibilities that will get me thinking in a new direction.

Have a great day!

Roger 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Try

Speedtimekollektion.com they are a bit slow in delivery as the company is based in Spain but they do carry a lot of used old movement parts.

So I couldn't wait until tonight to check this site out clockboy, so I just went online and they do have the part! http://www.speedtimerkollektion.com/shop/index.php?cPath=32_97_116  I'll have to make some decisions now about the cost of the part with shipping and determine if I'll purchase the watch.  Have you purchased from them before clockboy?  Would they ensure the used part is actually serviceable?  Thanks again!

Roger 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The preferred option is to fit a new part. But if not available there is no other option. After Swatch drop the hammer next year we might as well get used to this scenario. If it is for a customer then we will just have to be honest with the clients.

Edited by clockboy
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • just one little minor reminder here this isn't your normal balance wheel.  pages 17 and 18 are what you really want to be looking at. normally studs don't turn but this watch has the etachron system designed for lots of adjustment. Personally I would try to rotate the stud back to where it's supposed to be. If you're lucky you didn't actually bend it at the stud it just looks really bad as the stud has been rotated grossly out of position.. I think things will look a lot better if you put the hairspring back where it's supposed to be by rotating the stud. it's hard to tell if you actually did bend it at the stud or not we won't know until you rotate the stud back more or less where it's supposed to be. Then you want to pay attention to the manual of how to put the hairspring back in the regulator pins because yes they rotate also and they rotated specific directions otherwise bad things will happen to your hairspring. so initially you can open up the regulator as wide as it can go and don't worry about closing it until thing everything is right then you can close them a little bit
    • I need to see photos of the whole movement before I comment. 
    • Hi @Jon, so, from one extreme to another the beat error is 0.1(min.pos) to 0.2(msx.pos), and as you mentioned the rate does up and down dramatically. Also checked the position of the collet, and the collet is not central to the jewel on the balance cock. Balance moves freely, per my understanding.   So, after 24h the ampl. fell down by approx 20 deg, which I would assume is expected. After adjusting the endshake I believe I gained around +10 deg. of balance movement. Which is great, and overall the balance is not at 220'ish deg.   What I did next, some might think is non-orthodox, but was wort a try. I too the mainspring out, checked again for endshake and if the pin moves freely, and cleaned everything. Usually when installing the mainspring I would use some barrel grease on the barrel walls, install the spring and put a 2-3 drops of D-5 oil on top of the wounded spring and in the places where the arbor sits. This time I took the spring and applied a ultra this coat of Molykote Dx paste on the whole spring, before installing it in to the barrel, and added some oil to the arbor as usual.  The result improved, at a full wound the balance produces about 230-237 deg. @JohnR725 I'm getting closer to 300 😃   What I am noticing, there is a fluctuation in amplitude. With time it would rise and drop about total 8-10 deg in an interval about 2 minutes. I assumed this ruled out the power transfer from the barrel itself. So I took the gear train out, cleaned and lubed. 
    • Thank you so much, Hector and CJ. I appreciate the tech sheet and the video. Gasp, I think I will make the attempt. What's the worst that can happen? I think there may be a new balance complete in my future, though.  I'll update the post and let you know the result. R, Frank  
    • So here is the new base (v 2.1), I made it so that the base will fit over and swallow the stump of the hand pusher tool (or at least my clone of the tool), I also reduced the OD of the bottom skirt a little as it looked/felt a little large, here are a few pictures and the fake .pdf file which you need to convert to .zip once downloaded.   The cut-out seen on the below image on the bottom of the base should swallow the OD (40 mm, +0.1 mm tolerance) of the stump and the height of the stump 9.5mm (measured to 9.1mm, but rounded to 9.5mm) - let me know if this works for your tool.   Note, I think you may need to print supports for the new internal shelf created? Here is the fake .pdf for just the FreeCAD base file and 3mf files Modular Movement Holder.pdf Here is the fake pdf for complete set of the new base and ring FreeCAD/3mf files: Modular Movement Holder base and ring v 2.1.pdf However, I'm wondering how often you could use this feature, adding the dial usually increases the OD of the movement, so you would need a new (larger) adapter ring tuned to the OD of the dial and I wouldn't like to grip the dial in any kind of movement holder if It could be avoided for fear of damaging it. Maybe I'm misunderstanding you?
×
×
  • Create New...