Jump to content

Pallet Stone Wear


Recommended Posts

That might also work, but you need to be careful if you mess with the over all geometry.

You can buy pallet jewels, so you could remove the old ones (heat the shellac, remove the jewel), then fit new ones, assuming you can source the correct jewel,  but you do need high precision to get this to work. I have no doubt that someone here could advise on this, better than I can.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, margolisd said:

...Or change the pallet fork height by a few microns so the escape wheel touches a fresh area on the jewel.

Being a micron one milionth of a mm is virtually impossible to do that, and not just for a beginner amateur like OP is. Suggestions given should fall in the realm of the doable. 

Edited by jdm
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A micron is one thousandth of a millimeter and a commonly used unit in watchmaking, I have a stack of prints on my desk with tolerance callouts in +- 2 or 3 microns. Moving a pallet stone in or out a few microns is frequently done, on small calibers a shift in position of 0.005 microns is considered large.

Measuring this can be tricky, true. For measuring pallet jewel movements I use a toolmaker's microscope. If shifting a fork on its arbor 0.005mm is easy to read on a good jeweling tool. Is it really 0.006 or 0.004? At that point it doesn't really matter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My Seitz jeweling tool has a fitting for this very purpose. I might try this just for fun. I'm still going to replace the escape wheel as it's super worn and the fork for the sake of good craftsmanship. I found them new on eBay for a few £s so it seems sensible.

Here's a question, with a 1970s Omega, how likely is it I'll need to adjust the pallet stones on the new fork? I know the parts are less interchangeable on very old watches. But I'd presume parts from this era are made with high enough precision so it should in theory just work(?)

Has anybody used the Begeon Pallet Alignment Tool or similar? I'd love to know how it works.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quote

on small calibers a shift in position of 0.005 microns is considered large.
 

I presume you mean 0.005 mm ( i.e. 5 microns) - 0.005 microns is pretty small, bearing in mind that the wavelength of light falls in to the 380 to 740 nanometers range, so adjusting to 0.005 microns would require super human vision.

Shifting by 0.005 mm means a shift of roughly a third of the width of a human hair, but at the scale of small watch calibers, human hairs are like scaffolding poles. :D

Edited by AndyHull
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

on small calibers a shift in position of 0.005 microns is considered large.
 
I presume you mean 0.005 mm ( i.e. 5 microns) - 0.005 microns is pretty small, bearing in mind that the wavelength of light falls in to the 380 to 740 nanometers range, so adjusting to 0.005 microns would require super human vision.

Shifting by 0.005 mm means a shift of roughly a third of the width of a human hair, but at the scale of small watch calibers, human hairs are like scaffolding poles. [emoji3]
Ha yes of course
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On ‎4‎/‎15‎/‎2019 at 8:01 AM, Tmuir said:

If he can measure it I would like to know how, as I doubt I could.

   vernier calipers.  but do those jewels wear?   I don't think so, just get out of alignment?  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quote

Being a micron one milionth of a mm is virtually impossible to do that, and not just for a beginner amateur like OP is. Suggestions given should fall in the realm of the doable. 

I'm going to be pedantic again...  a micrometer or micron, is an SI derived unit of length equalling 1×10−6 metre (SI standard prefix "micro-" = 10−6); that is, one millionth of a metre (or one thousandth of a millimetre, 0.001 mm, or about 0.000039 inch).[1]

.. in other words, it is a millionth of a meter not a millionth of a millimeter, it is a thousandth of a millimeter.

This is the sort of scale that you find on features on silicon wafers, which typically range down from a few tens of microns to the nanometer scale for non high power devices.

A nano meter for completeness, would be a millionth of a millimeter, and a pico-meter would be a thousandth of that, which is sub atomic in scale (and since an atom is between 62 and 520 picometers, we are talking pretty small). 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, AndyHull said:

I'm going to be pedantic again...  a micrometer or micron, is an SI derived unit of length equalling 1×10−6 metre (SI standard prefix "micro-" = 10−6); that is, one millionth of a metre (or one thousandth of a millimetre, 0.001 mm, or about 0.000039 inch).[1]

Of course, my mistake. Nevertheless in watchmaking the use of the hundredth of mm is commonly used, where the first digit after the decimal point indicate microns. E.g. SeikoHeights.thumb.PNG.eec8ba760bd9cb7252c8bc1f07438cde.PNG

Bonus info: the table above shows a fact little known: the very popular SII NH36 is actually available in two heights, and the numbering of the relevant parts.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I hope my previous post didn't come across as being picky, but I felt it was important to understand the relative physical scale of what we are  dealing with in order to better understand the problems involved.

The face of that jewel for example is probably of the order of perhaps 1mm x 1.5mm, and the wear, I would estimate is probably of the order of around 1/10 to 1/20th of that in width, and roughly the same depth. i.e. of the order of a tens or hundreds of microns. This is sufficient to have a very measurable effect on the performance of the watch. Shifting the height of the pallet fork by a few tens or hundreds of microns would be possible (assuming the geometry of the pallet fork allows this, without snagging on other components), so this might be a feasible, if tricky solution.

Automated manufacturing to 1/100 mm or better is relatively easy, however hand working and machining to this kind of tolerance takes considerable skill.

For example most low cost FDM 3D printers (the plastic squirting kind :P) are only accurate to 1/10mm at best (and that, typically only in the Z axis).  For comparison, a state-of-the-art ultra-high-resolution laser lithography 3D printer is typically capable of layer thicknesses and detail sizes well below 1 micrometer. So if you wanted to 3D print these watch parts, it would be technically possible, however, probably not in a suitable material. The technology is fast evolving though, so perhaps in a few more years, those unobtanium parts for rare watches will be a mere click or two of the mouse away.

For comparison, the legs of this 3d printed object are approximately the same width as the wear pattern on that stone.

3dp_nanoscribe_detail_2.jpg

Edited by AndyHull
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

51 minutes ago, AndyHull said:

I hope my previous post didn't come across as being picky, but I felt it was important to understand the relative physical scale of what we are  dealing with in order to better understand the problems involved.

The face of that jewel for example is probably of the order of perhaps 1mm x 1.5mm, and the wear, I would estimate is probably of the order of around 1/10 to 1/20th of that in width, and roughly the same depth. i.e. of the order of a few microns.

No pickiness, your is exactly the correct approach. Now, I don't know what Omega the OP has, but a Seiko 12 lignes pallet stone has a section side of (about) 0.2mm, that's 20 hundreds, or 2,000 microns. I'm happy when I can handle and fit the entire fork correctly, let alone manipulate the stones. Pictured below next to a medium size pin.

P4170717.thumb.JPG.e182417975bb7bbefa08dd770953b52c.JPG 

Edited by jdm
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the Omega palette is similar in dimensions to the Seiko one i.e. 1/5mm across, then my estimate of the wear pattern as about 20 microns is probably off by a factor of 5, so the wear is more like the fluting on those columns in the Brandenburg Gate model. So more like a couple of carbon fibers width than the width of a single a human hair. :P

Edited by AndyHull
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

out of curiosity how much beat error are you getting? 

It was very erratic and hard to quantify. But I'd say around 10% of the beats were completely wrong.

The replacement escape wheel and pallet fork arrived. Fitted today and wow, what a difference. I put the escape wheel under the microscope to compare it to the old one and yeah it was completely worn. Thanks everyone for the advice. 

IMG_1506.png

  • Like 4
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 4/16/2019 at 3:49 AM, margolisd said:

Interesting. I normally use a little 9010 on the pallet cock jewels :phew:

Thank you marg for sharing, I had just heard about it, never seen an actual case and them pallets jewels sure tell the story and TG says something possetive has happened, perhaps by chance.  :lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Its 4 o'clock in the morning here in the Uk, i cant sleep, i dont sleep, not much ever really. My brain never shuts off to rest, I'm just a constant thinker, i have to be very tired to be able to sleep,  i guess eventually it will be my undoing and my health will suffer because of it I'm sure. But while I'm here i want to get as much out of life as i can, and give as much as i can, to help,maybe to make a difference to someone's life if that is within my capability,recent events have made that need even more clear to me. I'm not sure where I'm going with this or why i bring it up , or if its relevant to want i want to talk about its just in my head right now. What i do want to talk about is something thats been on my mind for ages. I like to be prepared,  I'm not fond of surprises because surprises take control away and i am a bit of a control freak at times. This forum, Our Forum if i can call it that, is here because of two reasons. The guy that created it and keeps it funded and the people that joined it.  Without either, it would not exist, and lets face it one day it won't ( I'm a realist and i talk about things others dont or who are afraid to in other words folk that dont particularly prepare for the inevitable). How many of us visit here regularly ?  How many among us almost depend on the forum as a way of socialising because they are stuck at home and how many of us has it become part of a daily routine to check in and see if they can offer advice or get help with something they are working on or just to have a chat and engage in some banter. The members here are in the thousands and thousands have disappeared over the years many had just a fleeting visit. But there are a good few of us that know each other quite well and visit regularly. I dont know about you but i wouldnt want to lose that communication with you all, in all honesty it has become an important part of that side of my life and helps to feed my passion for all things watches. Some of you may think differently and thats ok, some of may stop and think # what would i do " Without Our Forum " # 
    • Naptha appears to be a general name and its content can be varied depending upon what it's specific use is. Lighter fluid as an example can be light or heavier also with other ingredients to help it burn. Try sesrching for benzine ( as opposed to benzene which is linked to causing health issues ) . There are other fluids such as ethanol that you could try and also methylated sprirts, mostly ethanol with a small percentage of methanol added. Experiment with any new chemical to see how quickly schellac dissolves in its presence. I have tried a few things but hexane is not one of them, i understand it does evaporate very quickly.  Be sure sure to check out any safety data on chemicals you try. Toxicity of fumes and flash point information, ultrasonic machines can heat up fluids even without a heater function. And of course always ask here for personal opinions when trying a new substance. 
    • I have that set and really like it. I prefer that crystal holder over the one that came with my Bergeon claw tool and any time I use the claw I use this one instead of the Bergeon one, just an additional bonus with this tool.
    • Is the Roamer not a split stem? I'm confused on your how your case is put together. If it is a front loader where is it you are putting the case screws? I love me some Roamer, do you have any photos?
    • Oh nice. I have a similar wedge style stump for my staking tool, so I'll give that a shot. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...