Jump to content

How to clean dials and hands?


aac58

Recommended Posts

Hello friends. In the past few months I have been learning how to clean and lubricate movements, with no bad results :)

I used old Seiko 5 bought on eBay, and now I have some that are working fine, but aesthetically horrible due to dirty dials and hands, and also very scratched cristals that I do not know how to meassure and replace.

Is there a method and/or products to clean the dials and the hands? I know that restoring dials is something very complex, but I'm just trying to let them clean!

Any tip is very welcome! Thank you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For cleaning and polishing hands you can put a tiny amount of this (mixed to a paste with methylated spirit) on some pegwood and very carefully polish them. But keep in mind if they're electroplated they will need to be re-plated after.

This is also quite a nice tool for just buffing and general cleaning.

Cleaning the dial is, as you say, very specialist and I find as soon as you touch it, it just gets worse!

One thing you can do is re-lume the hands if they're luminous. Apart from being a really fun and satisfying process it really gives everything a lift!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As a few members on the forum recommend, pencil eraser works very well to brighten up tarnished hands. Every dial I have touched, with the exception of dusting off with a blower, I have regretted touching.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

SIgn up to Cousins UK and go look for watch parts and then case parts and enter your calibre and case number which will be on the back of the case.

if you are lucky Cousins will have in stock the correct crystal, or an OEM crystal for the watch, but as Seiko does produce a lot of models of watches its quite common for the crystal to be obsolete and out of stock, but Cousins may still list the part number which you can search for it on ebay.

This is for the acrylic crystals, if its just a flat mineral glass you just need to rmeove it and measure diameter and thickness with a vernier and buy a replacement one, but measure very carefully as the glasses go up in 0.1mm steps. You may also need to buy a new gasket for the glass too.

As they others say other than a gentle dusting don't touch the dial.

If you are very careful you can try a microfibre Q-tip just damp with distilled water on stains, but be careful as it can remove the markers and writing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for your answers! 

I can't rely on the case numbers as I can't say the backcase cover is the right one, so I better measure the crystal just to be sure, although in that area I'm not still confortable as I know there are serveral types, I guess these are plexis that has to be pressed to get into the case, so I think I should by one of those tools with docens of legs to press it.

About dials, I think I have some to play with, but still not sure what products to use. I think I've read someone that dips them in some oil for several hours and then clean them, but I can't remember/find that thread, and I don't remember the exact products he used.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quote

and also very scratched cristals that I do not know how to meassure and replace.

You might be able to polish the existing crystal, depending on how deep the scratches are and how much time and effort you are willing to put in to it, otherwise you would need to know the case number, or you would need to carefully measure the crystal with a micrometer.

As to cleaning the dials, tread very carefully here, as the "dirt" may be embedded in to the surface of the dial and prove impossible to remove without also damaging the dial. In the case of some of the dials I have looked at recently, the "dirt" is actually corrosion, and this has eaten tiny pits into the surface of the dial, and has also caused dis-colouration beneath the lacquer. Both problems are probably best left as is, otherwise the dial will be damaged further.

If the dial is particularly bad, you can either source a replacement dial, or send the dial away to be re-finished, both of which may put the repair in the "beyond economical" bracket, so you would then need to decide if the watch is even worth fixing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hi. Yes I get it , the slot in the end I’d to allow you to screw the button on whilst holding the pusher shaft. To remove the pusher tube you will need a tool such as the one shown by Richard. I think Ali Express the Chinese Amazon has replicas of the Horotec system for a lot less money, how effective they are not having had to use one. But as you said the way to go is complete removal and replacement, bodging it up will  lead to a repeat failure
    • It does look like it seems to be working again I'm getting emails.
    • One of the things that I've been bothered with lately is timekeeping? For instance a 90-year-old pocket watch what so to timekeeping was it supposed to keep? They publish railroad timekeeping but I don't know how well normal non-railroad watches were supposed to keep time. The reason why the question comes up for me is I spend a lot of time at work adjusting watches to keep really really good time  because I have to please my boss where as when the watch was made I have to wonder what kind timekeeping would've been acceptable. After all they typically didn't have timing machines 100 years ago and they were timing and six positions certainly not for the non-railroad grade watch. On the other hand I do get paid by the hour so maybe I shouldn't be concerned of how much time I Spend trying to make everything keep chronometer timekeeping almost. Citing a Delta of 40 seconds for a 90-year-old watch is quite outstanding.
    • That's an interesting question which I don't think I've seen explained anywhere. But I think the problem will go away just about instantaneously. In other words the  coating is really thin and it should go away almost immediately. So the problem should resolve itself extremely fast.  
    • I experienced that different types of shellac and their ages are affected differently by IPA. Sometimes the shellac dissolves in a few seconds and sometimes several minutes are required. Nowadays I never let shellac come into contact with IPA. It's a hotly debated topic here on WRT if you search. Like John, I don't think you need to worry about the weight of the shellac, but instead that it might start rubbing against something. When I learned how to adjust pallet stones, I tried documenting my experiences in this thread. Hopefully, it can help you. I personally don't believe in the idea of abrading the epilame before oiling so I don't think you need to think or worry about it. The only time I've heard anyone mention this is Alex on the YouTube channel Watch Repair Tutorials but actually no one else. I'm not saying it's "wrong" just that I don't think it's necessary or adds anything.
×
×
  • Create New...