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My 2824 dive watch project


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So I started by choosing a Chinese ETA 2824 clone movement, dive-style case, dial, hands, and bracelet.  

In another thread I posted my travail about getting the dial to work with the movement.  I ended up having to order another dial.

Today I had the new dial & hands attached, and placed in the watch case along with the movement ring.  I put the new crown on the stem, and measured how much to trim off the stem.

Well, NATURALLY I cut the stem too short.  Honest to God, if there's a mistake to be made then I don't think I've MISSED a single one.  

I keep telling myself that this is my first project, and just like pancakes the first one is always a throw-away.  But MAN this can be frustrating.  I mean, Mark makes it LOOK so easy...

The good news is it's just a cheap Chinese clone movement.  I can get another for $40 US.  Or I could just order ETA 2824 stems for $5.00 a pair.  I mean, what are the odds that a genuine ETA stem WON'T WORK with a Chinese clone movement?  :rolleyes:

Shoulda started with an ETA 6498...

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Chances that the stems you purchase are gen ETA is very unlikely and if they are gen, they will work just fine anyway.

 

Cutting stems too short was a particular favourite of mine when I started. I cut them too long now :biggrin:

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Be careful of the stems you order.   I went through roughly the same scenario and feel your pain!  Ruined an already bad dial, got a replacement which wasn't too great either!

As for the stem.  What length do you need?  Mine took longer than the standard 16MM and 20MM proved very hard to find.  This guy claims to have 20 MM stems in item number 254163508849 on the auction sight.  I purchased some claimed to be 20 which turned out to be 16.  Some I sent back, the overseas ones I kept.

If you can use a 16MM stem, PM me and I'll send you one.  Got several in my efforts!

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14 hours ago, phydaux said:

So I started by choosing a Chinese ETA 2824 clone movement, dive-style case, dial, hands, and bracelet.  

In another thread I posted my travail about getting the dial to work with the movement.  I ended up having to order another dial.

Today I had the new dial & hands attached, and placed in the watch case along with the movement ring.  I put the new crown on the stem, and measured how much to trim off the stem.

Well, NATURALLY I cut the stem too short.  Honest to God, if there's a mistake to be made then I don't think I've MISSED a single one.  

I keep telling myself that this is my first project, and just like pancakes the first one is always a throw-away.  But MAN this can be frustrating.  I mean, Mark makes it LOOK so easy...

The good news is it's just a cheap Chinese clone movement.  I can get another for $40 US.  Or I could just order ETA 2824 stems for $5.00 a pair.  I mean, what are the odds that a genuine ETA stem WON'T WORK with a Chinese clone movement?  :rolleyes:

Shoulda started with an ETA 6498...

Phydaux,

Welcome to the learning process. I would bet that Mark went through the same experience when he was starting out. After somebody puts in  years of study and practice they seem to make the process look easy. In truth, it isn't. As mistakes are made one learns techniques and tricks to avoid repeating them. I cannot count the number of watch parts that I launched into a low earth orbit that evaporated somewhere between the ozone layer and stratosphere. When starting out, expect to break things. Practice on the LEAST expensive  movements you can find.  In the beginning it doesn't matter if the movements even work. Just famillarize yourself with the components, where they go and how to  disassemble, clean, reassemble and lubricate. If you start out with non working movements you will also begin to recognize why the movement failed to work.  Anybody who is honest about it will admit  going through the same learning experience. Relish mistakes as an important part of the learning process.

david 

Edited by david
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4 hours ago, nichod said:

OH.   When we get it all figured out I found this earlier this AM: 

 
143143823544

Makes my credit card twitch!  It would probably rate an SW200 movement!

I don'r know what that is suppose to be...

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I don't know if we adequately addressed your question about whether or not the stems would fit your movement:  The Seagull type movements (ST2130 is what I used) WILL take a regular 2824 stem.  If you paid $40 for a movement, you may have something different!  Carefully look over the pictures on ebay and you should be able to judge.  There are lots of 2824 stems listed, but most will probably be too short for a custom screw down crown type fitment.

Good Luck!

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    • in general this shouldn't be any change. but in general questions like this it be nice to know the specifics of the watch in other words how was it performing before it was cased up and what is it doing now.
    • just as a reminder this watch is a Swatch group product. This will bring up a problem like spare parts and technical information. that I found some links to some information on when I talk about your watch and some of the technical and basically your watch is equivalent to 2834-2 for which I'm attaching the technical sheets. But equivalent does not mean exactly the same you want to do a search on the group for C07 as we discussed this watch before including the technical differences how it's supposed to be regulated and basically because it's watch group there is no parts availability. https://calibercorner.com/eta-caliber-c07-xxx/   https://www.chrono24.com/magazine/eta-movements-from-the-2824-2-to-the-powermatic-80-p_80840/ https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/h-10-movement-details.4636991/ eta CT_2834-2_FDE_481857_15.pdf
    • people be honest.... Swatch is evil for the watchmakers and repairers, BUT not everything in watches from Switzerland is from the Swatch-Group. As far as i know, Selitta got sacked by Swatch as a Movement-Assembler for them and they started to produce Movements in their own Name with slight Modifications. As far as i know, they sell Parts to the Market for their Movements. In most cases, if a ETA-Movement fails, it is a valid Option to replace it with a Selitta Movement, which i consider the Solution for this Mess with the Swatch-Group...... I have no Connection to anybody at Selitta, but being a Swiss-Guy, i still like to have Swiss-Made Watches, but not from the Swatch-Group.   ok ? regards, Ernst
    • Just one more greedy act by Swatch. They started a number of years ago here in the US..cutting off supplies to watchmakers that could build complications that many Swatch houses couldn't even touch. Old school masters who had gone through some of the most prestigious houses in the world. Otto Frei has some statements on their page about it. I tell all my customers to avoid new Swiss watches like the plague,..unless they just want an older one in their collection that still has some parts out on the market, or they have really deep pockets and don't mind waiting months and paying through the nose to get it back. Plenty of others to choose from..IE Seiko,..or other non-swiss brands Even a number of Chinese brands are catching up with the Swiss,..and I think that in time, their actions will be their downfall
    • Yes. If that's not what you are experiencing...start looking for something rubbing. A 1st guess is that one of the hands is rubbing against the hole in the center of the dial. Especially if you now have lower amplitude in face up/ face down positions.
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