Jump to content

Lubricants


Recommended Posts

I wonder if by "reconditioned" they simply mean rebottled. Perhaps someone trying to capitalise on a better price for a bulk purchase and then sell on in smaller quantities, or indeed selling rebottled oil that was bought cheap because it's out of date. Note that the bottle pictured is not the bottle that you will receive as it clearly states 2ml on the label and the listing is for 1ml. Rebottling it also introduces the risk of contamination, and depending on the integrity of the seller, cutting it with something cheaper, assuming that it is genuine 9010 in the first place.

Either way they need to look at their pricing structure. As JDM says Cousins do a 2ml bottle for £13.75+vat and shipping. That makes it less than £20 all in (at least with shipping within the UK). With the current exchange rate these guys are asking for about £26.50 for 1ml, that's over 2.5 times the Cousins price per ml, and for a product of potentially dubious provenence.

If you're going to spend your money on Moebius then I would give this guys a wide berth. You can get it very much cheaper else where and have better confidence in the product that you receive.

Just my opinion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
On 2/3/2015 at 8:34 PM, clockboy said:

Blacklab has a good point watch oil is designed to stay in place, car oil is designed to flow. However a very interesting paper

I use mainly Moebius 8000 and 9010. I have some oil made up by a chemist friend in his lab in the oil industry that is very high in surface tension. That is what is required for a watch. Hence Blacklab`s comment is correct. I had a pocket watch in, a Benson that had the 3 in 1 treatment. Oil everywhere, low surface tension for bike bearings etc, Just a clean and lube job, Runs fine now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Experimenting with oils (IMO) is madness. Specific watch oils are designed to stay where put and designed for the various parts of a watch/clock. The amount of oil that is required to lubricate a watch is also minuscule. I just don't think it's with the risk. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Moebius oils are extremely popular and one of the best. This link takes you to their site, so you can read all about what they have to offer. Most watch and clock suppliers stock them.

 http://www.moebius-lubricants.ch/en/products/oils

 

If you go here this link on our forum gives you a list of various materiel suppliers around the world.

 https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/links/watch-clock-repair-suppliers/

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would agree, use a quality oil like Moebius - Just in case you are interested in the properties of lubricating materials (and I suspect there is a certain geeky fascination for such things in the audience here), this article gives some insight in to all things slippery. 

https://bestsyntheticoilguide.com/synthetic/viscosity/

It may drag us a bit off topic, but it shows that all oils are not created equal, nor are they all suitable for every application.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, JCStuyck said:

Thanks. i appreciate your help.

You will find lubrication is ongoing topic amongst horologists with many different views.  However to start with Moebius oils and purchase small amounts as they do have a sell by dates.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

Hi all, I am about to clean and oil a Seiko 6319a movement and have realised I have no idea as to the correct oil/oils to use? Any advice gratefully received, many thanks in advance ! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Seiko recommended oils are listed in the service sheet, do you have it? If not, some member will be quick in attaching it here.
Now, Seiko original lubricants can be bought on Ebay for a reasonable price, but more practically you would buy Moebious products, in fact Seiko doesn't even sell a Moebious  "A", that is 9015, equivalent. In any case, there is nothing special about the 6139, just follow the general thread: 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi again Watchweasol. Fantastic! Yes it will help me so much in the future. I am happy to admit I know very little and didn't really give oils much attention.... Until today. My head was only thinking about stripping cleaning and putting it back together properly ! We live and learn, today I have learnt something vitality important so thank you very much for taking the time to help me. Best regards Johnnie:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
1 hour ago, Jeremy1025 said:

if i use molykote dx paste to lubricate the whole mainspring inside. is that any problem ? please advise

You never lubricate the whole mainspring. Depending on the type and material uses on MS and barrel all it's needed is very little specific product on the top and bottom of the barrel, and even that is subject to debate, . If it's an automatic some "braking" type product is applied to the wall of the barrel.

BTW, it's appreciated that new members introduce themselves in the dedicated section of the forum.

 

Edited by jdm
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi my friends.

I saw WRT video in youtube. It's so helpful to me. Thank you Watch Repair Channel.

After watching video, I'm looking for watch repair oil and grease.

I want know what oil & grease need to beginner.
In addition, I want know what oil &grease used in video (7s26 repiar video).

If anyone knew about that, help my work.

I will very appreciate any information or links.

Thank you to read my poor writing. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What sort of watches do you want to work on?

Pocket watches?

Mechanical Wristwates? Auto or Manual?

Quartz watches?

Pocket watches and wrist watches have some oils that are used on both of them, but also different oils too.

To get all the oils and greases you use will set you back a couple of hundred dollars.

A not extensive list of oils abd greases are:

Moebius 9010 (for train wheels and balance endstones) and 9020 (for train wheels) if you are working on Pocket Watches.

Moebius 9415 is a must for Pallet/Escape wheel teeth.

A quality silicon grease for case gaskets

Moebius D5 is essential (barrel arbor, motion work).

Moebius 9501 grease for keyless work.

Moebius 9501 or 9504 for high friction (e.g. Cannon pinion, Setting lever spring and anything at high friction).

Moebius 8200 grease for mainspring on manual wind watches

 

But when starting out just get Moebius 9010, 9415, D5 and 8200, you can add the rest as time goes on

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On ‎5‎/‎16‎/‎2019 at 11:20 PM, Tmuir said:

What sort of watches do you want to work on?

Pocket watches?

Mechanical Wristwates? Auto or Manual?

Quartz watches?

Pocket watches and wrist watches have some oils that are used on both of them, but also different oils too.

To get all the oils and greases you use will set you back a couple of hundred dollars.

A not extensive list of oils abd greases are:

Moebius 9010 (for train wheels and balance endstones) and 9020 (for train wheels) if you are working on Pocket Watches.

Moebius 9415 is a must for Pallet/Escape wheel teeth.

A quality silicon grease for case gaskets

Moebius D5 is essential (barrel arbor, motion work).

Moebius 9501 grease for keyless work.

Moebius 9501 or 9504 for high friction (e.g. Cannon pinion, Setting lever spring and anything at high friction).

Moebius 8200 grease for mainspring on manual wind watches

 

But when starting out just get Moebius 9010, 9415, D5 and 8200, you can add the rest as time goes on

Thank you for kind and accurated comment.

Now, I can buy oils and grease. Thank you so much!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/16/2019 at 3:35 PM, HongJiho said:

I want know what oil & grease need to beginner.
In addition, I want know what oil &grease used in video (7s26 repiar video).

Check this comprehensive topic:

Also, please post repair question in the dedicated section: "Watch Repair help and Advice".

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks again for all the help. I found a number on the movement (715) after much searching. I guess it's the below movement so I will order than and see how I get on. https://www.ronda.ch/en/productfinder/caliber/715
    • Hi. Thing to do is measure the battery space.  Diameter.  X depth ..    I have seen it listed as  sr626sw.  377 measure to check then check the dimensions of the 377.    
    • Hello!  Does anybody have this tool?  This is mine.  If you have one, does it look complete?  How do you use it.  (I have the instruction sheet but it's hard to read!)  thanks!
    • @JohnR725 that's very helpful.  I appreciate the time you took to give those instructions and post the pictures.  below is a picture of my staff, which looks identical to the ones you posted.  The approx measurements I got are: .772 on the left part of the staff; .715 on the right side of the hub; the hub is 1.107; and the overall length (minus the broken pivot) is 5.248; which seem to line up with the measurements you posted.  I didn't think to measure the pivot, which I'll do if there's enough of one left on the staff.  Thanks again.
    • Thank you to both of you!  I've been somewhat derailed by this quandary for a couple of days now. I am guessing that the point of the wider tweezers is to support the whole spring at the same time in an effort to prevent it going under tension... I have already discovered the Zen of a clutter free space, and trying to keep my work well away from the edge, however the most terrifying of the flights wasn't so short, I had my work in the middle of the table and nothing else around.  That particular launch was towards me.  I distinctly recall feeling the spring hit my left hand as it escaped.  I only found it by dumb luck, on the floor, between the legs of my chair.  I need to order a pack of replacements just in case.  I think I recall a thread discussing where to find them, and the differences between the clones and the authentic ETA ones, pointing out that they're not interchangeable (the clones being longer IIRC).  Now I just have to find that thread again.  What I haven't mastered is the zen of the search function here.  I'm sure I"ll get that down eventually. So this is similar to, but different from one of the posts I had found in my original searches (or maybe I'm just hallucinating, I can't find the post I thought I remember).  The bits about the corner filled in a gap in what I'd read before.  At least I have a more clear picture in my head about what needs to happen now.  Yes, I've learned about how touchy these springs are.  What I'm not sure I have a good grasp on is the understanding of what causes the spring to flex, other than to say "the slightest little touch"  I think I'm going to try a small bit of Rodico to position the spring next time.
×
×
  • Create New...