Jump to content

Wood-works clock, purchased in 1800


BigSapphire

Recommended Posts

I'm the sixth owner in my family of a wood-works wall clock. It was purchased by one of my ancestors in 1800 from a peddler, which I know from a parade of letters from the former owners. 

The clock was working when my grandfather passed away, and run for awhile after I moved it an reinstalled it in my home.  It's stopped now, and I think it's time to go through it for maintenance, and to repair it.  

I have a pretty good general background in working with the simpler side of clocks and watches, and with wood working.  I have never dismantled either a watch or a clock, though I'm not afraid to do so. I am meticulous and have a good place to work, well lit and clean.  

I can see that the bearings have been replaced by metal sleeves, and that metal pivots have been added to the shafts of some of the gearing. These may be original, but I don't think so. There are some amateurish repairs by my forbearers (a bit of hot melt glue here and there for example), but it is not extensive and seems reversible. Gears have all their teeth, and the unit seems in restorable shape.  My goal is to get it running again, and in decent shape, so I can eventually leave it to my grandson.  I'm not under time pressure thankfully. 

Is there a subgroup of clock folks who work on the wooden clocks?  How about resources?  And lastly, if you were to buy one or two books on clock repair before launching off on this, what would those titles be?  

I'm a "do the homework first" kind of person... Thanks! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome, plenty of books on clock repair, if you could post photos it would help on the advice we could give.

For general clock repair look up Donald De Carle who has published many books on both watch and clock repair, although none specifically on all wood clocks.

I do remember my grandfather was making one some 18 years ago before he passed away and his brother took it to finish, but died not long after so I don't think it was every finished.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.   I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
    • I'm going to give this a try today/tomorrow on my UTC33/Seiko 66, thanks!
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • Don't forget Mark is a hard working watch maker so he is also tied up with work. I'm sure he is keeping his eye on this forum making sure it is running along nicely. 
    • Thank you for your introduction and welcome to this friendly forum. We all look forward to your contributions and continued involvement.    
×
×
  • Create New...