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    • By PaulnKC
      WRT Members,
      I have a 50's/60's era Waltham men's wristwatch that needs some help.
      It's in amazing (as-new) condition, but while wearing the other day, it stopped - even though there should have been plenty of power in the mainspring.
      Disassembling for investigation quickly revealed the trouble. The screw-head from the ratchet wheel screw had broken off and found its way in to the train wheels and locked everything up.
      There appears to be no other damage - thankfully. But now I want to fix the movement. My preference would be to find a barrel arbor and screw - or better yet a complete going barrel assembly new with ratchet wheel screw.
      I am search eBay now - but thought I'd check with you guys to see if anyone knew of a good source for such parts. I haven't found any yet.
      NOTE: This movement is Swiss made, 7 jewels, marking on the base plate look like Unitas 1690/02
      Any info/help is greatly appreciated.
      Kind Regards,
      -Paul
    • By Marc5555
      So ive been wanting to build my own watch for a while after having worked on my own watches for quite some time. The only apprehension i have is how does one size a dial to fit a case. Lets say i have a miyota 8215 a 41 mm cade that fits that movement would a 31 mm dial fit that case? 
      I guess my question is how does one tell if a dial will fit a case. I understand all cases are different
    • By beastomaniac
      My Rolex Submariner cal. 3135 won't hack from time to time when I pull out the crown. Is it some kind of lubrication or mechanical issue, is it easily fixable without tearing the whole movement apart?
    • By east3rn
      Hello. 
      I am about to work on a Omega ladies automatic watch.
      I found out that the axis of the rotor is out of place and shakes up and down.
      What could be done in this situation?
      Thanks!

    • By east3rn
      Hello watchmakers!
      I am about to work on a vintage citizen watch.
      I removed the movement from the case but I am stuck on removing the automatic rotor..
      It seems that my screwdrivers won't do the job..
      Any advice would be helpful thank you.

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    • Thank you. I am fairly sure that is right. It looks almost identical and is the right size. I will try and get parts based on that.
    • Ha, wow from the click I was 99.999% sure it was Unitas, but it's Pierce. Looks like a caliber 160/22, 16 ligne.
    • The only markings on the movement are the words Swiss Made, 15 Jewels and a small 5 under the balance arm. I don't currently have a very accurate caliper but I think it is 34.7mm rather than 36.4 as the Unitas 6497 movement wouldn't fit. Here is a picture of the dial side but I haven't seen any writing on it. I do not believe that the movement has ever been changed since it was made in around the 1930s.  
    • I have a nice little carriage clock in for service, very good shape, except for over 0.30mm sideshake of the barrel arbor in the barrel. Thought I would show how I bush these; it seems they often get overlooked or just skipped as they are a little more fussy than just bushing a plate. I measure everything up, then remove the boss in the barrel, and make a bushing that fits from the inside and is stepped, replacing the boss. This way it's captive, and doesn't require a big interference fit to get seated and stay. I turn up the bushing with a boring tool in the lathe, doing the outside as well (running in reverse of course), then do the barrel opening with the same tool. It's a pretty quick process once you have the moves down!    
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