Jump to content
  • ×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

      Only 75 emoji are allowed.

    ×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

    ×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

    ×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Content

    • By PaulnKC
      WRT Members,
      I have a 50's/60's era Waltham men's wristwatch that needs some help.
      It's in amazing (as-new) condition, but while wearing the other day, it stopped - even though there should have been plenty of power in the mainspring.
      Disassembling for investigation quickly revealed the trouble. The screw-head from the ratchet wheel screw had broken off and found its way in to the train wheels and locked everything up.
      There appears to be no other damage - thankfully. But now I want to fix the movement. My preference would be to find a barrel arbor and screw - or better yet a complete going barrel assembly new with ratchet wheel screw.
      I am search eBay now - but thought I'd check with you guys to see if anyone knew of a good source for such parts. I haven't found any yet.
      NOTE: This movement is Swiss made, 7 jewels, marking on the base plate look like Unitas 1690/02
      Any info/help is greatly appreciated.
      Kind Regards,
      -Paul
    • By Marc5555
      So ive been wanting to build my own watch for a while after having worked on my own watches for quite some time. The only apprehension i have is how does one size a dial to fit a case. Lets say i have a miyota 8215 a 41 mm cade that fits that movement would a 31 mm dial fit that case? 
      I guess my question is how does one tell if a dial will fit a case. I understand all cases are different
    • By beastomaniac
      My Rolex Submariner cal. 3135 won't hack from time to time when I pull out the crown. Is it some kind of lubrication or mechanical issue, is it easily fixable without tearing the whole movement apart?
    • By east3rn
      Hello. 
      I am about to work on a Omega ladies automatic watch.
      I found out that the axis of the rotor is out of place and shakes up and down.
      What could be done in this situation?
      Thanks!

    • By east3rn
      Hello watchmakers!
      I am about to work on a vintage citizen watch.
      I removed the movement from the case but I am stuck on removing the automatic rotor..
      It seems that my screwdrivers won't do the job..
      Any advice would be helpful thank you.

  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • imo you're got either too coarse to start with, or been too brief with a subsequent grit.  The grit refers to the size of the abrasive particles.  If a grit is say 400 in size, it will leave 400 sized scratches.  If the next grit up is 600, the idea is use 600 until the 400 sized scratches are gone.  If you leave 400 sized scratch, and keep going up, how are you going remove enough material to remove the scratch? Despite a few BS claims out there of moving material around, abrasives remove material, full stop.  The only way to get rid of a scratch (with abrasives that is) is to remove enough material to bring all the surrounding material down to the level of the bottom of the scratch.  The reason for the progressive grits is to speed up the process.
    • Thank you. I am fairly sure that is right. It looks almost identical and is the right size. I will try and get parts based on that.
    • Ha, wow from the click I was 99.999% sure it was Unitas, but it's Pierce. Looks like a caliber 160/22, 16 ligne.
    • The only markings on the movement are the words Swiss Made, 15 Jewels and a small 5 under the balance arm. I don't currently have a very accurate caliper but I think it is 34.7mm rather than 36.4 as the Unitas 6497 movement wouldn't fit. Here is a picture of the dial side but I haven't seen any writing on it. I do not believe that the movement has ever been changed since it was made in around the 1930s.  
×
×
  • Create New...