Jump to content

Hebdomas Bridge Repair


Recommended Posts

So I needed to remove a broken screw from the bridge, the one that locks in the Hairspring stud. I first tried drilling it out with small bits from China and this resulted in a peek in the hole. Then I got a great idea and took a bit that broke and filed it down to a wedge,like a screwdriver bit. This got rid in the peek and allowed me to use another bit with cutting oil. And it worked. Used a lathe for this with a collet holding tail stock.

 

Here are are the pictures.

c696fbb86688ed552e1c763b3643d44b.jpg738c004bb82e7e677e7a3defa33ba7eb.jpgb1f6f6ae9d9e8c2119b29e0f0e924991.jpgccf30104b4a2059943c552a66bacd670.jpgae920cc944472745bd0871f6b715d9af.jpgf67d43c3be69c3414b5d7c65724c405c.jpg2d7f8bcc6bbbe1230876971a1f5a07d4.jpg367fb7cdad468f8ee478d523f1f9b9b4.jpg947c9ca817efce5133dd8ae84ed48fa2.jpg3f16124f633783c753a2edb1f1255ba9.jpgc47c10fc0ab39a1e217e2ea8fc50f8f9.jpgcfa0ac9202d641d0e4715ffc1205005a.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nice work and good example of how a faceplate can save the day! I do faceplate work all the the time much to the perplexment and eventually enlightenment of apprentices around here.

After all that work, it was still the wrong spring strength. Not sure how to get the right spring for this watch. Should I add weight to the balance?

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How fast is it running?

Really fast. First, I use e-timer and not sure it can read the frequency, bph. I is only swinging about 90 deg. I really need to figure out the strength of the hairspring I need. Got it working however.

Sent from my GT-N5110 using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi J, Hi Nickelsilver,       JD ,  Have you tried to supply power to the barrel manully, to a normal level ?  Not only tells about MS, it further gives you some idea to judge the escape on.

I suspect the pallets for inadequate or improper impulse supply.

Isn,t the advantage of breguet HS that it lets increase in active length of H not limited by regulator pin? I think you got enough space there to increase the HS  length up to 15 mm, therefore no need to know the exact HS strength.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi J, Hi Nickelsilver,       JD ,  Have you tried to supply power to the barrel manully, to a normal level ?  Not only tells about MS, it further gives you some idea to judge the escape on.
I suspect the pallets for inadequate or improper impulse supply.
Isn,t the advantage of breguet HS that it lets increase in active length of H not limited by regulator pin? I think you got enough space there to increase the HS  length up to 15 mm, therefore no need to know the exact HS strength.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

The hairspring actually stops at the stud, so no way of getting additional hairspring length.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, jdrichard said:


The hairspring actually stops at the stud, so no way of getting additional hairspring length.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

If it came down to replacing with a longer HS. The regulator pin dose not limit the length of breguet HS, as it dose with ordinary HS coil.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

If it came down to replacing with a longer HS. The regulator pin dose not limit the length of breguet HS, as it dose with ordinary HS coil.

Oce sure a new HS is the only option, I would try resonating a plain HS to get the right frequency, leave some extra length on.The overcoil is not as much pain as it is made out to sound. The old HS shows all the right length and bends, it is a model for sculpture. A good parts of the over coil shaping should be done inside the movement, you van see how much to raise and bend to get to impulse pin, end length curve is about the same and is to be done before the raise.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So the watch ifself is our living datasheet. Before getting to this, I must repaeat I agree with Nickelsilver.

On 4/2/2019 at 2:06 PM, nickelsilver said:

You'll want to get the amplitude up before going any further on the timing. With only 90 degrees there must be some serious issues.

I agree with Nickelsilver. 

Once it came down to replacing the HS. The watch itself is a living datasheet.

No problem to fly a new HS with this BW, inside the watch.

Regards

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • So fsr as assembly, I don't think you would find 5646 different from 5606, just that GS is 36000 beater. No unknown chalange is there as long as the escapement reamins undameged. Rgda
    • no, I have no alternatives and don't know of any. I've bought Mobius and that's all I have. 9010, 9104, 941, D5, 8000 and Moly-Kote.
    • I've just had the wood stove door seal replaced. I was hoping not to need to do that again for a few years. In the name of science I can't say I'm not tempted. I mean how dangerous can it be? Says the man who encouraged his friend the plumber to use phosphoric acid to dislodge the solidified sodium hydroxide that had blocked the bath U bend. We did take that outside first though, and yes, adding concentrated phosphoric acid to sodium hydroxide crystals and drain sludge is as bad an idea as it sounds.. so we did it several times, laughing like delinquent school boys until the explosions of brown goop stopped. The operation was a success, but sadly the patient died (or rather, melted), and we had to replace the U bend anyway.  Children, please don't try this at home.
    • I don't usually fancy the yellow crystals but it seems to work with that dial... ...and you can't set fire to it unless you share video. I speak for all of us...
    • For the last couple of evenings, I've been working on an Amida 15 Jewel based on the Amida 500 movement from sometime around 1950. This is a slightly odd mechanism, as it has the initial appearance of a jewelled lever arrangement, but is in fact a pin lever. The movement is well made, and pretty easy to work on. After a little swithering, I did change the crystal. It looked original, and I would probably have left it alone, but it had yellowed somewhat, but the thing that sealed its fate was the crazing that became evident if the light struck it from just the right direction.  As you can see, it made a marked difference to its appearance, although some might argue that the yellowing gave it a warmer look. I'm in two minds also regarding the hands. I suspect they might polish nicely, but the nagging voice in my head is saying, they might also end up looking uneven. It does run reasonably well all things considered. It doesn't quite qualify for the 404 club, as it came in at a rather too hefty price tag of £4.99 GBP. but since I've made a few other exceptions to the rules recently, it may just get an honorary membership. There are a couple of other issue I need to address. The first is the fixed pins and rather small lug width, which measures at a rather odd 15.3mm. I'll either need to source a strap, or perhaps use this an opportunity to make a custom sized strap for it.  The second issue is.. do I dare set fire to the old crystal, just to see if it is made of nitrocellulose? If you hear a loud bang and detect the smell of singed eyebrows, then you will know the answer.
×
×
  • Create New...