Jump to content

Does this look sluggish?


Recommended Posts

I pulled an old watch out of the drawer recently. I know it was a non runner when I acquired it a few years back and that after I stripped, cleaned, oiled and reassembled it, it did run. After that I just put it away and forgot about it. When I came across it I thought I might like to put a strap on it and wear it. It still runs but is losing about 2-3 minutes a day, and to me the balance doesn’t look to be swinging very enthusiastically. I don’t honestly remember if that’s why I left it in the drawer or not. Think I’ll just take it apart anyway and go through it again. Just wondered if anyone thinks it does look like it’s a bit sluggish, it’s fully wound.

@Squiffything What do you think of the pictures?:thumbsu:

60E2F516-F1C2-41F6-B965-94DCD7CEDE2D.thumb.jpeg.61bcbe2db0d7994349a704a16ff46d4f.jpeg8A510B94-8DF6-4CC6-9345-38A69CEFC93E.thumb.jpeg.6911297546a8f9981fa43ab2bedc2977.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks sluggish. If you didn't replace the mainspring when you took it apart, I'd replace it. When did you last give it an overhaul? It is probably dry and running with considerable drag on the drive train. Also, It looks like the entry stroke of the pallet is occuring a little fast, so the beat is probably off.  Balance wheel looks a tiny bit wobbly. Give it an overhaul, replace mainspring, and put it on a time grapher to correct the beat error--that should improve things dramatically.

J

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Davey  If you have a time grapher put it on that and check the beat error and amplitude. If not remove balance and check the action of the pallet is it crisp when moved  banking pin to pin, also you can remove the esc wheel and put  a little power on the   watch the wheels run down there should be a bit of backrun as the power runs out.   If you have no timegrapher  have a look at Watch-O Scope the lite version is free to use but you need to build a small amp there  are diagrams on the site. I use it in conjunction with the Horotec unit to double check.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I’ve stripped it down to this point and noticed that either the cap jewel is missing or doesn’t have/need one. Can anyone confirm for me either way. 

AF3DE567-0CA1-453A-B78B-57216CA1070F.thumb.jpeg.971ac5f5eff219289432df1b938a1bc0.jpeg

This is the wheel that sits in it.

C4AA2697-D68F-445F-B37D-CFD1478D2132.thumb.jpeg.a0f888df6ec0e4b5762d4ec95f0f53bf.jpeg

What calibre movement is it, in case I need spares.

6BA80C9F-52BE-47D6-B2B6-926BE2531F3B.thumb.jpeg.d32d3f66f850cac8f97ce1db7a2c5737.jpeg

Thanks for any help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi    Dave Its Forster 187  Have a look at Ranfft forster 187.    By the look of the recess and screw hole in the plate I would say it needs the endstone although on Ranfft site the Forster 189 front plate shows otherwise but there is no recess in the plate go with plan A 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tried to find an end stone from another old watch. But looking at the jewel itself it has an oil sink, so I’m still not certain it should have an end stone fitted?  While I was on I thought I would check and clean the balance jewels. The upper one went ok but the end stone from the lower one has taken flight.  Most annoyed!  Apart from trying to find another movement, are endstones generic, just different sizes? I’ve measured the upper stone as best as I can and think it’s 1.10mm. Cousins sell an assortment that would last a lifetime. Think I might find one to fit among this?

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/jewel-holes-end-stones

Thanks all for any help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • An incabloc spring? About 10p at the current price 🤣
    • Have you ever seen grease spread?  I use Molykote DX on the keyless, cannon pinion, etc and cannot imagine it spreading. Similarly, HP1300 should not be a problem, as long as you don't splash too much about.  9010 does like to travel though. I've recently re-serviced a couple of my watches I first serviced about 5 years ago. I was a bit too liberal with the oil and grease back then, but it hasn't spread everywhere. I only epilame on balance cap stones, escape wheel and pallet stones (and auto wheels if they need it).   If you use it all over, the oil might bead-up and travel even further - think of using RainX on your car windows.
    • Polish it where the old part cracked as well. Get rid of the stress-raisers.
    • Sounds great! And yes, I would use grease for the keyless as well although treating the parts with epilame would make the grease less likely to spread in the long run. Not critical but won’t hurt. My current strategy is to epilame treat all parts getting in contact with oil or grease.
    • Hello everyone, for what it's worth, here is my approach: 1. Escape wheel submerged in Epilame, then dried quickly with a hairdryer. Then the final tip of the pivots are cleaned by poking into pithwood. The logic being that the Epilame is removed at the intended contact point (to avoid any residue that may mix with the oil), but remains in the areas where oil is not supposed to spread to (further down the pivot towards the wheel). The escape wheel teeth also benefit from having Epilame to keep the 9415 in place.  2. I use a syringe to treat only the pallet stones. I suspend the pallet fork with some Rodico so that the stones hang downwards. I notably use a rather thick needle where a drop WON'T form, but rather where the Epilame liquid stays in the needle tip, which I then dip into the pallet stones. It requires some practice to get the right amount of Epilame into the needle tip, but it works for me now. This way, no drop will "jump" onto the pallet fork and potentially go all the way to the pivots.  3. I let the movement run for a few minutes without lubricating the pallet stones... to scrape off the Epilame in the intended contact "channel". Then I remove the balance again and lubricate the exit pallet stone with 3-4 successive drops. See the "channel" that forms on the pallet stone in the picture -- not so easy to see, but it's visible.       I am conflicted about the use of Epliame in balance jewel settings. My impression is that the two jewels sufficiently suspend the oil (even 9010). Apparently Rolex recommends NOT to use Epliame there (heard from a former Rolex service center watchmaker), as it could cause additional wear. Apart from that, I follow specific instructions where I can find them. E.g. the infamous Rolex reverser wheels or sometimes (parts of) the seconds wheel. Exception: I'm currently servicing an Eta 2824 and will probably ignore the service sheet that recommends treating the whole keyless works with Epilame and then using HP1300... I'll skip the Epilame and use 9504 grease.        
×
×
  • Create New...