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Does this look sluggish?


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I pulled an old watch out of the drawer recently. I know it was a non runner when I acquired it a few years back and that after I stripped, cleaned, oiled and reassembled it, it did run. After that I just put it away and forgot about it. When I came across it I thought I might like to put a strap on it and wear it. It still runs but is losing about 2-3 minutes a day, and to me the balance doesn’t look to be swinging very enthusiastically. I don’t honestly remember if that’s why I left it in the drawer or not. Think I’ll just take it apart anyway and go through it again. Just wondered if anyone thinks it does look like it’s a bit sluggish, it’s fully wound.

@Squiffything What do you think of the pictures?:thumbsu:

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Looks sluggish. If you didn't replace the mainspring when you took it apart, I'd replace it. When did you last give it an overhaul? It is probably dry and running with considerable drag on the drive train. Also, It looks like the entry stroke of the pallet is occuring a little fast, so the beat is probably off.  Balance wheel looks a tiny bit wobbly. Give it an overhaul, replace mainspring, and put it on a time grapher to correct the beat error--that should improve things dramatically.

J

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Hi Davey  If you have a time grapher put it on that and check the beat error and amplitude. If not remove balance and check the action of the pallet is it crisp when moved  banking pin to pin, also you can remove the esc wheel and put  a little power on the   watch the wheels run down there should be a bit of backrun as the power runs out.   If you have no timegrapher  have a look at Watch-O Scope the lite version is free to use but you need to build a small amp there  are diagrams on the site. I use it in conjunction with the Horotec unit to double check.

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I’ve stripped it down to this point and noticed that either the cap jewel is missing or doesn’t have/need one. Can anyone confirm for me either way. 

AF3DE567-0CA1-453A-B78B-57216CA1070F.thumb.jpeg.971ac5f5eff219289432df1b938a1bc0.jpeg

This is the wheel that sits in it.

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What calibre movement is it, in case I need spares.

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Thanks for any help.

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Hi    Dave Its Forster 187  Have a look at Ranfft forster 187.    By the look of the recess and screw hole in the plate I would say it needs the endstone although on Ranfft site the Forster 189 front plate shows otherwise but there is no recess in the plate go with plan A 

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I tried to find an end stone from another old watch. But looking at the jewel itself it has an oil sink, so I’m still not certain it should have an end stone fitted?  While I was on I thought I would check and clean the balance jewels. The upper one went ok but the end stone from the lower one has taken flight.  Most annoyed!  Apart from trying to find another movement, are endstones generic, just different sizes? I’ve measured the upper stone as best as I can and think it’s 1.10mm. Cousins sell an assortment that would last a lifetime. Think I might find one to fit among this?

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/jewel-holes-end-stones

Thanks all for any help.

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    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
    • I did not. I thought about it, but I had cleaned it in my ultrasonic, and the tech sheet shows lubricating it in place already assembled, so I figured discretion was the better part of valor. Although since I have to depth the jewels anyway, maybe I pull the pinion off to rule it out 100% as part of the problem. Do you know if there's a safe way to do it? I don't want to use a puller because it would push down on the plane of the wheel, and that seems like a Bad Idea. I thought about using a roller table remover, but I don't think I have a hole stake pointy enough to push it down.
    • Before putting it back in the case I would fit the hands and use a pin vice on the stem to make sure the hands were in line. 
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